I know that the torsion bars on the 4runners are splined but since the big tooth is in the bracket rather than on the bars it makes it harder to grind down so I have 2 questions

1- does anyone have any ideas on how to grind this bigger tooth down?

2- does anyone know wher to get the pre clocked bracket to avoid having to do any grinding?

 

I'm pretty well versed on all things 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners and I've never heard of this being done. So I have a couple questions for you too. But I'll try and answer yours first.

1. A die grinder, possibly. Or maybe you could hit it with a cold chisel.

2. I've never heard of such, and I've just about seen it all when it comes to these rigs.

Now mine:

1. What are you aiming to achieve by doing that?

2. Are you aware that the same effect can be achieved by adjusting them as they were intended to be adjusted?

 

If u know everything about these trucks then you would know that a die grinder won't fit. And cranking them does not do the same thing clocking will lift it the same way but without the added tightness that comes with cranking them. Of course they will have to be cranked somewhat clocking them will just lower the amount you would normally have to crank to achieve the same amount of lift.

 

Oh boy...anybody wanna back me up on this one?

Before it gets too ugly...

 

i'll follow both of you if that helps

 

Not exactly. But I'll take what I can get...I guess.

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...rsion_bars.htm

http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Theory_Of_Operation.html

Just trying to help!

 

When I was younger, I thought I knew it all untill I realized someone knew more. Megaman makes a lot of sense. Hopefully someone out there will know what yur talken about.

 

pics seem to always help ppl understand me

 

Another alternative would be to lower the back. Anyone know any good ways I haven't thought of yet? I already made some custom shackles that are an inch shorter. Any other ideas?

 

Only thing clocking would do is allow you to put even more preload on the torsion bar which I DO NOT recommend! Clocking is not going give the truck added lift with the same amount of preload as the factory settings.

James

 

Let's say your theoretically COULD re-clock the stock t-bars, maybe with some aftermarket adjustment paws, you're essentially doing the EXACT same thing as adjusting them tighter


When you re-clock them, what are you doing? You're changing the angle that the t-bars rest at. Very slightly, but you are changing the angle, so they're a couple degrees turned more than stock.

When you adjust them by tightening the adjustment bolt, guess what you're doing? You're changing the angle that the t-bars rest at.


Any torsion bar equipped vehicle is going to have the same result from re-clocking the t-bars are they will if you just over-adjust the bars with the factory adjustment bolts.

You can already crank the t-bars down on these IFS Toyota's WAY further than you'll ever need too (unless you're running a super heavy front winch bumper, but then it's better to just get thicker aftermarket t-bars, and that's a hole other thread). If you were able to re-clocked the t-bars, you would get the SAME exact effect; a higher front end, and a stiffer ride.



Although I see how one would be curious about this, it is simply pointless to chase this, because you can get the same exact result you're looking for on these trucks just by adjusting the t-bar bolt.




grinding on the t-bars OR the paws that lock them in is highly ill-advised as well... that's like grinding a notch into a coil spring... all you're going to do is create weak spot...




If you're wanting to raise the front by a few inches without changing the way the truck drives or handles, what I would recommend you doing is searching the forums for information on Ball Join Spacers

 

Exactly what i was thinking travis

And to the OP; no need to be a jackhole, he was just trying to help. Like bleeder said, it will do the same thing as tightening them.

Dont beleive us? Go ahead and give it a try. What do i care if you waste your time

 

same thing can be done by taking a very long bar putting it on the UCA and bending it downwards. Probably gonna be just as reliable as taking a grinder and removing metal from a critical load bearing part.

haha just kidding.

what makes you think this is NOT doing the same thing and adjusting using the normal means when nothing is done on the UCA side of the bar? The spline on that side stay in the same location. What changes the height when you adjust the t-bar is the acutal preload of the bar. Think of the bar as an air bag. WHen you add more air into the air bag raising its pressure what happens to the suspension? it lifts. Same thing iwth the t-bars, its the tension of the t-bar that riases the front end. if you "turn" the t-bar mount like you are trying to do, it just turns that sides splines just like when you adjust them the normal way. Only advantage of do it your way if you want to call it an advantage is it "might" allow you to put even more tension on that t-bar than was originally intended.

 

Yea I already have ball joint spacers on there and I really just need about another half inch to an inch. And my t-bars are already tightned down pretty good. There is an inch and a half of the bolt sticking up past the lock nut so I really don't think I should tighten them any more

 

Great information. I am going the opposite direction. I bought a rig that was lifted I trying to take back to original.

 

MegaMan - I think that heavier torsion bars will solve your problem. Since they are stiffer in twisting the same adjusting bolt position will result in a greater preload torque that is jacking the front suspension up.

I know from experience: I used to run Downey 26mm tbars and when I installed them I only had to adjust the bolt 2 or 3 threads from zero load to get the ride height I wanted. When I went back to stock tbars I had to put more like 10 threads or so.

Hope that helps.

 

Yep I have the 23.whatever old man emu bars and I set them to what I had my old bars set too and I can tell it is STIFF! I can't even bounce the front of the truck at all. I'm hoping that will change a little when I put my motor back in

 

Woaaahhhh are you serious??? Your motor is out....no way to tell the ride quality then! Is that why you wanted to crank down the torsion bars? I really hope that isn't why...your truck is missing A LOT of weight up front...

If you do some research, the OME torsion's are very close to stock. From the input I have seen, most people are very pleased with how they ride.

Now racerunner torsions, those are 25 mm 'stock-ish' torsions, they also make 27 mm 'race' torsion bars. Never heard of anyone running the race ones, but everyone I knew many that ran the 25 mm's said they were not happy with them and that they were too stiff.

Bone stock toyota T-bars: 22.8 mm
OME: 23.4 mm

So in other words, they should be perfect! Get the engine in there and then see how you like it...

 

It's tempting to think that the torsion bars stiff in proportion to the diameter but it's actually the fourth power. OME's are (23.4/22.8)^4 = 1.11 times stiffer than stock while the 26mm Downeys are 1.69 times stiffer.

 

that's only assuming they are made of the same materials. not to say they aren't but I am just sayin.