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Torsion bar clocking?

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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #41  
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From: piney hicks nj
Originally Posted by MegaManX268
If u know everything about these trucks then you would know that a die grinder won't fit. And cranking them does not do the same thing clocking will lift it the same way but without the added tightness that comes with cranking them. Of course they will have to be cranked somewhat clocking them will just lower the amount you would normally have to crank to achieve the same amount of lift.
well someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed...and by waking up on the wrong side of the bed, i really mean he should go join pirate...or just buy a jeep...
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #42  
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Find some short sections of railroad track and stick them in the back. Add till your level.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 04:30 AM
  #43  
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lol tofer, I wouldn't do anything with the ride height until those springs settle. I think I remember seeing someone say those springs settle at least a 1/2" to an inch. They will be the same ones I go with.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #44  
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Here are some pictures of what ive ended up with so far...

Torsion bar clocking?-photo-1.jpg

Torsion bar clocking?-photo.jpg

Torsion bar clocking?-photo-2.jpg
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #45  
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more pics....
Attached Thumbnails Torsion bar clocking?-photo-4.jpg   Torsion bar clocking?-photo-8.jpg  
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #46  
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you can see that the back still sits a little higher and thats without the motor still and now with the 1.5 inch ball joint spacers but it looks a lot better. my torsion bars are cranked to 1.25 inches of the bolt are exposed at the top, it used to be 1.5 inches before. My friend has 2 of these trucks and on one he had the bolts cranked to where only 1 inch was exposed and the other where 1.5 inches were showing. does anyone know what it is stock or what the limit is?
Attached Thumbnails Torsion bar clocking?-photo-6.jpg  
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #47  
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doesn't look like it's sitting that bad

I'd let those new springs settle in; I bet it'll be pretty darn level after a few months of driving



maybe haul around a few bags of sand in the back for the first couple months to help speed up the settle-in process





Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Aug 2, 2010 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #48  
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I think you should wait till your engine is back in to make any adjustments. And those new springs should settle a little, then maybe youll be at our 2". Also, the rear fenders are cut lower from the factory making the back look lower than it really is.

Last edited by rattlewagon; Aug 2, 2010 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #49  
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Yea I have been measuring from the lines on the body not the fenders. So far the measurements from the body to the ground on each corner are.

FL- 39"
FR- 37"
RL- 40"
RR- 38"

So from the front right corner to the back left there is a 2" difference. And everything is symetrical and I don't know y everything is off by an inch both torsion bars are cranked to where there is 1.25" of the bolt showing and still my truck is about an inch higher in the rear and and inch lower on the right side ( has a gangster lean ) and I haven't even put the motor back in it yet. I'm kinda worried I'm gonna have more problems of it being off even more once my motor is back in it. Also the torsion bar on the left ( drivers side ) feels like it is a lot tighter than the other one when I tighten it but they are both adjusted the same amount so I don't know what is up with that.

Last edited by MegaManX268; Aug 4, 2010 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #50  
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I'm kinda new here just started an account but when I bought my ome Tbars I did'nt adjust them by how much bolt was sticking out I adjust them til I had the right ride hieght. I just went and looked inder my runner too be sure but there is more bolt showing in the passenger side than the drivers. So in my opinion do'nt worry about the bolts and just make your front end level. of course thats after you install your engine because that will also change how it sits left too right not just front too back.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:39 AM
  #51  
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we keep telling him not to worry abut this till he gets the motor in and the rear springs have settled, but I don't think he is listening to any of us.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #52  
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Well it appears that I don't have any other choice.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #53  
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so if i want to lift my stock 93 pu around an inch or so, i can put bj spacers and small blocks in the rear, would that work? or t bar tighten?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:05 AM
  #54  
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I would say t-bar tighten up front and a longer shackle in the rear. I wouldn't use a block on the rear. I don't trust them, not even a 1" block.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
I would say t-bar tighten up front and a longer shackle in the rear. I wouldn't use a block on the rear. I don't trust them, not even a 1" block.
So are bj spacers worth getting? I want to drive right and everything tho
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #56  
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yes you can go that route too.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 04:30 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
yes you can go that route too.
Ok thanks, think i can fit a 275 or 285 tire with that, i have yet to find a pu wit those size tires to get an idea
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 08:21 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by DaddyRunner
I'm kinda new here just started an account but when I bought my ome Tbars I did'nt adjust them by how much bolt was sticking out I adjust them til I had the right ride hieght. I just went and looked inder my runner too be sure but there is more bolt showing in the passenger side than the drivers. So in my opinion do'nt worry about the bolts and just make your front end level. of course thats after you install your engine because that will also change how it sits left too right not just front too back.
Do you think this is because one bar is weaker than the other? Or has one been installed a little off clocked?
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #59  
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Eel they can't be clocked wrong because they can only go in there one way.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #60  
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Interesting, I've read both viewpoints on that; one that they only go in one way, and one that you can offset it. I forget how mine went in, I just used the FSM for tips. Mine definitely have different amounts of thread showing. For adjustment, I just measure to the frame/fender/bumpstops, etc.
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