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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Torsion bar clocking?

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #21  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
I am a little confused here. you said earlier an alternative would be lowering the back, but you want more height up front. How is lowering the rear an alternative? You are also complaining the front is too stiff (yes I understand the motor is out but still) and yet you want a way to crank the t-bars eve more? You are just asking to snap them in half.

In a way I hope you do and maybe learn from what all of us are telling you.

Or you can always go over on pirate4x4 and tell them what you are trying to do. I won't go into what might happen if you do that.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
that's only assuming they are made of the same materials.
Good point. But the torsion bars are still steel and the modulus of steel is about the same regardless of temper or minor alloying elements. It would be a different story if they were aluminum
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MegaManX268
Yea I already have ball joint spacers on there and I really just need about another half inch to an inch. And my t-bars are already tightned down pretty good. There is an inch and a half of the bolt sticking up past the lock nut so I really don't think I should tighten them any more
wait a minute...

so you already have ball joint spacers installed, AND you have the t-bars cranked all the way

so...

your probably resting on the droop bump stops anyway

and if you are, then that's the MAX lift that you're going to get out of your IFS, plain and simple!


the only way you're going to get the front end any higher is with an LT kit or a bracket lift




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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #24  
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Yep that's what I figured. That's why an alternative would be to lower the back if raising the front isn't possible which I am openbto the fact that it may not be a possibility. It seems that lowering the back is the only option I have left and I made some custom shackles that are an inch shorter but it still isn't level. I know that will probably make it ride roughy but at least it will match the front lol
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #25  
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Are there any other variables in the rear suspension you could change? Remove a leaf, blocks, etc.?
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #26  
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No blocs there are 2 overload springs and I'll be removing one tomorrow but that will only give me a half inch. I'm hoping not to remove any leafs cause I don't want it to ride good in the back but be stiff as he'll in the front
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #27  
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From: Binghamton, NY
Originally Posted by MegaManX268
No blocs there are 2 overload springs and I'll be removing one tomorrow but that will only give me a half inch. I'm hoping not to remove any leafs cause I don't want it to ride good in the back but be stiff as he'll in the front
Post pictures, so we can understand what you are trying to achieve!!

James
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #28  
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X2 I'm so confused
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #29  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
how is raising the front and lowering the back the same thing? I still don't get it. is the rear now sitting 1 inch higher than the front and if you take the spacers off gonna be 1 inch lower than the front. ????? if not, that just make absolutely no sense to me.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:12 AM
  #30  
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I think i know what he is saying!!

The rear of his truck is higher than the front. Even with bj spacers and cranked t bars the rear still sits higher.
He was trying to find a way to lift the front of his truck more to sit level with the rear, but now that we said it wont work, he is considering just lowering the rear to match the front.

Did i win??
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #31  
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The real question is: does anyone in this thread win??
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #32  
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I always win
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #33  
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From: castle rock
Originally Posted by MegaManX268
Yea I already have ball joint spacers on there and I really just need about another half inch to an inch. And my t-bars are already tightned down pretty good. There is an inch and a half of the bolt sticking up past the lock nut so I really don't think I should tighten them any more
go for it a few more turns would do it, i had mine so tight at one point the ride height rested on the droop bumps and didnt flex at all, you should be able to adjust as far as your bumpstops will let you then dial in your stiffness
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:53 AM
  #34  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by 2DoorRunner
I think i know what he is saying!!

The rear of his truck is higher than the front. Even with bj spacers and cranked t bars the rear still sits higher.
He was trying to find a way to lift the front of his truck more to sit level with the rear, but now that we said it wont work, he is considering just lowering the rear to match the front.

Did i win??
makes scense. don't mind me, my head hasn't been screwed on right since the weekend. lol, ok 35 years, but whos counting.

if this is the case, how much mileage do you have on those leaf springs in the rear? are they brand new, been on there a while and have been driving it? if they are brand new without very much mileage, expect the leaf springs to settle a little. probably 1/2-3/4" or more.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:15 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by RustBucket
The real question is: does anyone in this thread win??
I win



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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #36  
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Well riddle me this, I have the cs009 old man emu springs on the back of my truck and it has two ovverload springs on it I am about to take the one on the bottom off that is the smallest overload spring but still leave the big one on there. I have been told this is a bad idea but from a really unreliable source. Any thoughts?
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #37  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
I don't see a problem removing that. But have you put any miles on them allowing them to settle in yet?
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #38  
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Nope just putting it all together right now while I'm waitin on my motor to get back
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #39  
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Dude no offense you are failing epicly...leaf springs need to settle in for a few weeks to reach their normal ride height, and you need an engine in the car to really look at how your ride is sitting

I say this with love before you start cutting stuff up that you don't need to which will save you time and keep you happier in the end
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #40  
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Ohh I know lol I think I got it now. I'm just wanting to get close, I am gonna make sure that my front sits a little higher so I can account for my engine going back in then ill be able to adjust from there. Also I know I seem pretty dumb ab all this but I think they sent me 3" springs instead of two is why I'm having this trouble but maybe not. Also I'm pretty buzzed so let me know if this doesn't make any sense
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