Too much lift?
10-05-2005, 02:02 PM
#1
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Too much lift?
Do you guys think that OME HD coils, BJ spacers and SDORI coil spaers would be too much lift to fit 32s on a 2nd gen?
I would say just do it and go for 33s, but that means new wheels and I'm not sure how well the autobox will hold up, even with 4.88 gears.
Lamm
I would say just do it and go for 33s, but that means new wheels and I'm not sure how well the autobox will hold up, even with 4.88 gears.
Lamm
Last edited by 4x4Lamm; 10-05-2005 at 02:12 PM.
10-05-2005, 02:13 PM
#3
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OME HD Coils, OME Shocks and steering damper, Marlin Brake Lines, T-Bar crank (to level) and 32x11.50s on stock 15x7s seem good.
Or would it be better to get the BJ Spacers and less T-bar crank?
Lamm
Or would it be better to get the BJ Spacers and less T-bar crank?
Lamm
10-05-2005, 02:39 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by 4x4Lamm
I would say just do it and go for 33s, but that means new wheels and I'm not sure how well the autobox will hold up, even with 4.88 gears.
I'm running 33's and autobox w/ 4.10's. No problems.
10-05-2005, 02:59 PM
#6
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I'm not so much worried with durability, but rather performance/MPG.
You and I have the same rig Flag (in stock form)...
How do you feel about the above mentioned lift...
Lamm
You and I have the same rig Flag (in stock form)...
How do you feel about the above mentioned lift...
Lamm
10-05-2005, 04:11 PM
#7
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id do it and run 33x10.5s no need for new rims, 4.88s should be fine. euther way bj spacers are better then tbar crank
Last edited by Silver_Truck; 10-05-2005 at 05:06 PM.
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10-06-2005, 11:28 AM
#9
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I had 33x10.50s on my last rig, they were ok but the only thing they offered was a little more groung clearance. 31x10.50 would be ideal for MPG and power without being too small, 33x12.50 would be ideal for the wheeling I do. I figgured I would just split the difference.
Do you really think that 33s would not bog down the truck too muc with an auto?
Lamm
Do you really think that 33s would not bog down the truck too muc with an auto?
Lamm
10-07-2005, 01:23 PM
#10
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I have settled on OME HD coils, stock t-bars, BJ spacers, LSPV bracket from Downey, brake lines from Pro Comp and shocks and steering damper form OME.
This will allow me to run Cooper Discoverer STT (32x11.50R15s) on stock Wheels.
Lamm
This will allow me to run Cooper Discoverer STT (32x11.50R15s) on stock Wheels.
Lamm
10-07-2005, 02:29 PM
#12
Originally Posted by rocket
Whats the LSPV bracket? I called Downey and they did'nt even know what it stands for...
More info:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#OrderingInfo
10-13-2005, 10:44 AM
#13
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Sounds like a nice size lift for you want to do. i bought the OME HD springs, coil spacers, BJ spacers and a tiny bit of crank on my tbars. i run 33x12.5 with my stock 4.88 gears. i love the setup. you should consider it in the future if you want to go bigger.
10-13-2005, 12:53 PM
#16
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I had a 93 4Runner with the auto and factory 4.88's. I put on a 4" Superlift and 33x12.50 Super Swamper Trxus. I was only getting 13-15 mpg. And the power was really bad, but it did decent wheeling. I wouldn't suggest doing 33s with an auto unless you want to go to 5.29 gears so you can get halfway decent gas mileage.
11-11-2005, 11:06 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by snap-on
Load Sensing Proprtioning Valve... biggest POS there is.
pull it out and in place of it put a normal proprtioning valve. MUCH better control!
pull it out and in place of it put a normal proprtioning valve. MUCH better control!
11-11-2005, 11:22 AM
#20
Your rear braking pressure is reduced. You should at least raise the sensing rod equal to the lift eight to restore full rear braking. Here is what I did with mine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
Essentially converts the LSPV into a simple adjustable prop. valve.
Or a simple relocation bracket as I showed earlier will work if you want to keep the stock setup. Or you can do the manual prop valve swap:
- http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/valve.htm
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
Essentially converts the LSPV into a simple adjustable prop. valve.
Or a simple relocation bracket as I showed earlier will work if you want to keep the stock setup. Or you can do the manual prop valve swap:
- http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/valve.htm
