I see everyone saying you can replace the timing cover without removing the head. I replaced timing chain guides on my 87 4Runner and I’m trying to put the cover back on. Problem I’m having is timing cover won’t slide back on the alignment dowels because it’s too tight with head gasket and head in place. I do have the oil pan off of the engine. Do you cut out the portion of head gasket forward the block and use gasket maker? Every video I watch skips that part and just shows the timing cover magically in place.

I’ve already thrown several wrenches and swore at it a lot and it didn’t help.

****UPDATE, repaired*****
For the record... My timing cover had been decked with the block both top and bottom where it connected to the head and to the oil pan. I had no choice but to replace the timing cover as I damaged it when removing it during the chain guide replacement and it also had deep groves from the timing chain rubbing on it. I bought two different timing covers from two different venders and compared them to my old one to confirm. The block being decked is the only logical explanation for my old timing cover to be shorter than both the new ones. With the added height you can't slide the timing cover onto the alignment pins as the head gasket takes up a hair too much space.

I cut the portion of head gasket forward the block to accommodate for the taller timing cover on the top side and used a thick bead of Permatex The Right Stuff between the timing cover and the head. I found a video of this procedure and it worked well.

The bottom must have also had a hair shaved off the block because my new timing cover also hung off the bottom of the block a whisker. Just enough overhang to make me doubt my cork gasket. I took out my old table saw and used it to shave the thinest layer off the bottom of the aluminum timing cover and it worked! Standard small bead of sealant at the corners when I put on the oil pan with the cork gasket.

Repair turned out great. New oil pump and timing chain and guides too. A guy could probably try taking his old timing cover and a new one to a machine shop and have them match the height but aint nobody got time for that. No leaks! Thanks aztoyman

 

If you have a new timing cover on an engine that's been rebuilt, it may be too tall. If the block ever got decked, it is always done with the timing cover in place.

 

Shoot, didn’t think of that. It is new. I’ll try and slip the old one back on.

 

Sure enough…

Dug the old one outa the trash and it goes on. Compared the height and the new one is taller.

My old one is beat up and has groves from the timing chain. Is there a work around? Surely pulling the motor and having it decked with new cover isn’t the only option.

That head gasket is getting cut off and replaced with glue!

 

Looks like .020" is the max allowed to deck a 22RE block. I'm guessing maybe .010 might be typical for the first rebuild?? It's enough to make you fight it with dowels involved. The dowels ensure your bore aligns properly with your crank so I wouldn't eliminate the dowels.

You have the top bolt going down through the head and into the timing cover so there's the potential for failure there with a gap if you cut the head gasket to make it fit. It would work if you were careful but, you would have to eventually correct this if you ever have to R&I the head.

If the cover you removed is ok to reinstall, I think it's your best choice. If it's not, I'd see if a machine shop could mill the cover to match. If I was in a parking lot far from home, I'd probably shave the cover with whatever I had (file, sanding block?) enough to clear, spread some sealer on it and get it home. It's the least invasive "field fix". Just my personal opinion. Save the old one so you can measure it.

Good luck with whatever you decide. Please follow up. It may help others later.
Scott in AZ.

 

If you already cut the head gasket before I replied, I would glue the piece back in like you said IF it will go back in. If not, some form of Permatex RTV like the black or gray stuff should seal it. I'd definitely wait for it to cure before tightening the top bolt just to minimize any strain on the aluminum in either part. (Head and TC)

To add; If you plan to keep the truck long enough that you may need to ever pull the head, having another timing cover trimmed to match the original on hand will save you the trouble down the road.

I've had few 2nd and 3rd gen Toyota trucks that my wife and I drove for close to 500K miles. I did 3 timing chains on each of them. Heads rebuilt twice. Three of them I rebuilt completely. I was lucky my timing covers lasted. They did get decked with two of the blocks.

It'll be a long time before you have to do this again. It'll suck all over if you forget about this cover.

 

Thanks for the input. I haven’t cut anything yet. I screwed up one of the dowel pins monkeying around so have some new ones ordered and won’t make any moves until I have them.

I haven’t had the 4Runner long. I pulled valve cover off to clean it up and adjust valves and noticed timing guides were broken and timing chain was cutting into the cover and I also didn’t take much care in removing the old cover with a hammer either so she’s toast. There is a tag in the door frame from local engine builder that says engine was put in 110k miles and 10 years ago. They probably decked the engine then. Just eyeballing I’d say they decked it every bit of that .020” when I compare the old and new covers.

I’m think I’ll take the covers to the machine shop and see if they can make them match. Will definitely post what I come up with. What a can of worms!

 

I know it can definitely get frustrating and we tend to take short cuts when we NEED our vehicles. I've done it and it usually came back to bite me.

Since you've taken a step back and have parts coming, I'd take a look at the oil pump. They are not that expensive it you need one. And make sure you have all the CORRECT length bolts for the timing cover and be aware of where they go. There's a couple that can cause damage if in the wrong place. I don't remember which ones though.

If you're new to the 22RE be aware of the potential of overheating your nicely repaired engine because of trapped air in the engine. Lot's of info and videos on "burping" the system. I had a couple close calls even after I thought I was good to go. There's different opinions on how best to do it. You decide. Filling it slow helps though.

Good luck!

 

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