set my timing to 10 degrees btc, runs like crap,wont get out of its own way, set to 28 degrees tdc, runs like a champ,no pinging.
whats up with that? why wont it run well at the factory timing?

 

What year??? What engine???? Carb or EFI??? What protocol used for setting base timing????

 

x2 to all the above!

The more information you can give us, the better we can help you.

 

It's likely the balancer has spun

 

1995 4runner 3.0 3vze motor,fuel injected. put the car in diagnostic mode,set timing,also leANED OUT FUEL MIXTURE

 

checked the balancer no spin. it runs at 10 degrees, just no power, it runs fantastic at 20 degrees advance

 

If its 10 deg out. Are you sure there is no balancer spin?

 

What's the history of the engine? Has the distributor been out? Timing belt replaced recently? TPS messed with? I have heard the TPS being out of adjustment will interfere with setting the timing properly.

What made you check/set the timing and discover it runs better at 28 BTDC?

 

Same deal with mine.
1986 22RE

I've even verified it is actually at TDC and made sure dist is not several teeth off.
Went as far as pulling the valve cover off and making sure cam is not degreed.

EVERYTHING IS EXACTLY AS IT SHOULD BE AND ALL MARKS LINE UP.

At "Factory" timing (8-10) the thing has ZERO power, but it seems to really like about 31 degrees.
Never had it spark knock. Never hard to start (fires up almost instantly).
Put it anywhere near factory timing and it can;t get out of it's own way.

I know someone has been into the motor in the past, but no idea what all has been done. Seems to be a recent rebuild before I bought it.

EDIT: If the previous owner had not said something about setting the timing, I would probably never have checked it.

 

If your 28 degrees advanced and it perfect on a stock ish motor. Something has moved. Not sure if its the crankshaft keyway on the pulley with your timing mark on it. Something is off in the timing components. But if everything is actually as it left the factory they at 28 degrees timing your going to blow the motor up. Its a when not if thing.

So many people have been positive its not the distributor. When 5 pages later it was the distributor being off a tooth. Just an example, not saying its your problem. Just example.

If what you say is correct then My guess is the crankshaft keyway on the flywheel pulley moved.

 

How come you had to lean out fuel mixture?

 

I apologize in advance for resurrecting an old thread, but I do have an update that may help the next person on this.

I noticed whenever I jumped the terminal to set the timing, it never seemed to change the idle at all. And there should be a noticeable change in RPM.

This was my clue.
Someone had the throttlebody off at some point and had messed with the factory idle setting. Throttle blade was never fully in the idle position
So the truck was never truly at idle.

Fixed that issue, and re-adjusted the TPS and checked the timing.
Dead on 10 degrees.

TPS still needs adjusting but timing id correct at least.