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I’ve been working on making the tailgate fully functional, and have replaced the the tailgate relay and the main harness (from the front to the back on the drivers side)
ive gotten the wiper blade working, but the window still won’t roll up or down. I have to directly hook it up to the battery to get it to move.
Any other suggestions of things to check or parts to replace?
also: I haven’t been able to figure out what these two wires are supposed to connect to.
Have you checked the switch that makes when the wiper is all the way up?
Have you checked the switch that makes when the cap is on the back of the truck?
Have you tried resetting the circuit breaker that powers the back window? It's below the block of fuses, behind the driver's side kick panel. IIRC, it's a circular silver can, with a hole in the top. Put a toothpick or very small screwdriver into the hole, and push straight in, until you hear a "click".
I am pretty sure the red and black wires goes to the switch that makes when the back door is closed. That, BTW, is another possibility as to why the window isn't...windowing? If the switch isn't closed, the widow won't window. If those wires go to it, well...
You could try shorting them together to see. Be wary of the connection getting hot, and of fuses blowing if you do that, though.They are rather large for a switch, but it's the ground for the window relay controller thingy.
Can you identify where the other end(s) of the wire(s) go? That may tell the tale.
I don’t know where either of those first two switches are located, can you provide some general descriptions?
I pushed pretty hard on the toothpick, but I didn’t hear the “click” in the circuit breaker. Does this mean I need a new one?
The red & black wires just come out of the harness (see photo.) The indicator light for the “back door” sensor works like it should, so could they be for something else?
im really no good at the electronics side of auto mechanics, thank you so much for the help!
The wiper switch is up in the wiper machinery on the ceiling or the cap, at the rear. Right above the window. Where the wiper motor is.
The switch that the cap activates, when it's on, is under one of the bolts that holds the cap on. The bolt labeled "B" in the picture below. Bolt B looks slightly different than all the other bolts in the cap, BTW.
Take note of the cautions below...
The actual switch is inside the side panel right below bolt B. Driver's side. I believe right behind the roll bar, but I may be wrong about that. So is the whole control of the rear window's power. It takes in the power, and all the interlocks, and permits, or denies, operation of the rear window.
If you heard no "click" when you reset the CB, that's fine. It means the CB isn't popped, that's all. It's a good sign. I am going to presume (never ASSUME <ahem>) that you've seen the circuit breakers in your house's panel, yes? The ones that kinda look like switches, but mounted sideways? When they pop, they go about 1/2 way to the off position, right? To reset them, you need to move them all the way to OFF, then back to ON again, right? Well, the one for the rear window has no visual indication of being popped, but if you push on it with the toothpick, it will click if it was tripped. Now, it's reset, ready to go. No click, no reset, as there's no NEED for it be reset. It's set, and ready to go.
Two ways to trace the red&black wires: 1) The harder way...cut, or unwrap, the wire loom covering, and physically trace them to where they go, or
2) The easy way, but takes longer...Hook one of your multimeter's leads to one of the wires, with the MM in "OHM" mode, and check every pin of every plug, including that ground lug, until you see the meter deflect, or get a 0 (zero) reading. THAT is the other end of the wire you're testing. Make note of what pin in which plug, and check the system's schematics for that plug and pin. That should tell you, or allow us to tell you, what they're for.
Make absolutely certain there is NO voltage in the system. Multimeters in Ohms mode are sensitive to voltage, and it will fail the MM if it's there. Many have a fuse in the case somewhere for this circumstance, but don't rely on it exclusively. Best way is to remove both battery leads before you begin. At the very least, remove the battery's negative lead.
Hope all my rambling is some small help. That 4Crawler entry is really good help, too. A ton of greatly useful info for the beginner. Remember, I was never a mechanic. I spent my entire life as a Radar Tech. About as far from being a mechanic as you can get...
Pat☺
According to my 1987 EWD red and black is what Wallytoo suggested, the rear window defroster.
Tip: adding year and vehicle description to post is helpful.
Nov 6, 2021 | 02:14 PM
