Rear cam plug
#5
Just remember, the install is the reverse of removal!
edit: okay I'll be slightly helpful. Use the search function at the top of the page, and choose the "Google" option. I found many, many threads talking about 3vze cam seals.
edit: okay I'll be slightly helpful. Use the search function at the top of the page, and choose the "Google" option. I found many, many threads talking about 3vze cam seals.
Last edited by 5 Fists; Nov 3, 2021 at 11:11 AM.
#7
Before you try to replace the cam seals, make sure you need to. As even the YouTube points out, a much more common issue is an improperly installed valve cover gasket. This leads to an oil leak in the back of the head. So, using spray degreaser get the back of the head clean enough to eat from. Start the engine, then check immediately. You might need a mirror.
(Hint: when installing the gasket, you must use sealant (RTV) at four points. The head must be sparkling clean; RTV won't stick to an oily surface, and you'll be replacing it again in a few days.)
(Hint: when installing the gasket, you must use sealant (RTV) at four points. The head must be sparkling clean; RTV won't stick to an oily surface, and you'll be replacing it again in a few days.)
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#8
Getting the valve cover on with it's seal in place an be tough. It dangles down, flops around, catches on any and everything in the area, you name it.
First, make certain you have the valve cover gasket installed right way up. It has a vaguely T shape. The vertical bar of the T goes up inside the channel of the valve cover that holds the gasket. If you try to cram the crossbar part of the T into the channel, the gasket won't fit, and the acorn nuts that are supposed to hold the valve cover down won't start on their bolts.
A way I found to keep the gasket in the valve cover, while setting it into place, was to put a small dab of a very thick grease at various points around the channel the gasket fits into. It will hold the gasket in place long enough to set the valve cover in place on the engine, without adding any thickness preventing the acorn nuts from starting on their bolts.
They're hard enough to start with a new gasket in place, anyway. I put 3 out the 4 grommets on that were in use previously, and crank the acorn nuts down tightly. Then I put one new grommet on, and get it's acorn nut started. Then do the one kitty-corner to the one I did first, then the next one. It makes getting the nuts started a lot easier, with the new grommets in place.
Also, I coat the valve cover gasket, the crossbar of the T only, and the 4 grommets under the acorn nuts, with a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicon dielectric grease. It makes the gasket stay soft and pliable a lot longer, and allows it to get a better seal. Really does make a difference.
Don't forget to replace the PCV and it's grommet while the valve cover is off the engine, if you're going to. The grommet gets brittle pretty fast, once it's installed, and will break apart into small pieces. You don't want those falling down into the camshaft area on the head. And they will. If you do it with the valve cover off the engine, it can't do that. You can leave the valve cover upside down, so all the little bits and chunks of the PCV grommet fall OUT, rather than IN, if you remove the PCV, even if just for testing..
Always, always, always use an OEM PCV valve and grommet. A small investment, but well worth it, IMHO. Finally, coat the grommet with a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicone dielectric grease. Again, it makes it last a lot longer, and seal better.
Ok, shutting up now. Best of luck!
Pat☺
First, make certain you have the valve cover gasket installed right way up. It has a vaguely T shape. The vertical bar of the T goes up inside the channel of the valve cover that holds the gasket. If you try to cram the crossbar part of the T into the channel, the gasket won't fit, and the acorn nuts that are supposed to hold the valve cover down won't start on their bolts.
A way I found to keep the gasket in the valve cover, while setting it into place, was to put a small dab of a very thick grease at various points around the channel the gasket fits into. It will hold the gasket in place long enough to set the valve cover in place on the engine, without adding any thickness preventing the acorn nuts from starting on their bolts.
They're hard enough to start with a new gasket in place, anyway. I put 3 out the 4 grommets on that were in use previously, and crank the acorn nuts down tightly. Then I put one new grommet on, and get it's acorn nut started. Then do the one kitty-corner to the one I did first, then the next one. It makes getting the nuts started a lot easier, with the new grommets in place.
Also, I coat the valve cover gasket, the crossbar of the T only, and the 4 grommets under the acorn nuts, with a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicon dielectric grease. It makes the gasket stay soft and pliable a lot longer, and allows it to get a better seal. Really does make a difference.
Don't forget to replace the PCV and it's grommet while the valve cover is off the engine, if you're going to. The grommet gets brittle pretty fast, once it's installed, and will break apart into small pieces. You don't want those falling down into the camshaft area on the head. And they will. If you do it with the valve cover off the engine, it can't do that. You can leave the valve cover upside down, so all the little bits and chunks of the PCV grommet fall OUT, rather than IN, if you remove the PCV, even if just for testing..
Always, always, always use an OEM PCV valve and grommet. A small investment, but well worth it, IMHO. Finally, coat the grommet with a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicone dielectric grease. Again, it makes it last a lot longer, and seal better.
Ok, shutting up now. Best of luck!
Pat☺
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supercub
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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Nov 8, 2008 02:31 PM








