Strange Truck Behavior -- 3.0 Automatic
#1
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Strange Truck Behavior -- 3.0 Automatic
I haven't really put up a real post on here in a while, but the list of strange problems has been piling on.
1. Revving Idle -- For the first 10ish seconds the truck is on for the first time in the day, the truck revs itself slightly, yet enough that I can hear I can see the needle move and hear it in the exhaust. Any ideas? Cold Start Injector?
2. Brakes/Brake Pedal -- Mostly when I first start it, it's most noticeable the first time for the day, but i can still feel it when the trucks warm. Basically as the engines turning over, the brake pedal shakes loudly back and forth. This also happens sometimes when I pull out of my parking spot and brake to put it in drive and when stopping at lights, but it almost feels like a VERY heavy pulsating.
3. Steering -- I've about had it with this. Replaced the idler arm (plus got a brace), pitman arm, did the outer tie rod ends about 8 months ago, yet my steering wheel is still "not alignable" with the rest and the truck still seems to pull to the left. I'm thinking ball joints are the possible culprit.
Any help is appreciated
1. Revving Idle -- For the first 10ish seconds the truck is on for the first time in the day, the truck revs itself slightly, yet enough that I can hear I can see the needle move and hear it in the exhaust. Any ideas? Cold Start Injector?
2. Brakes/Brake Pedal -- Mostly when I first start it, it's most noticeable the first time for the day, but i can still feel it when the trucks warm. Basically as the engines turning over, the brake pedal shakes loudly back and forth. This also happens sometimes when I pull out of my parking spot and brake to put it in drive and when stopping at lights, but it almost feels like a VERY heavy pulsating.
3. Steering -- I've about had it with this. Replaced the idler arm (plus got a brace), pitman arm, did the outer tie rod ends about 8 months ago, yet my steering wheel is still "not alignable" with the rest and the truck still seems to pull to the left. I'm thinking ball joints are the possible culprit.
Any help is appreciated
#2
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BUMP plus...
4. Humming - When I'm up at highway speeds and let off the gas I get a loud and low pitched hum coming through what sounds like the back but sometimes the front also.
4. Humming - When I'm up at highway speeds and let off the gas I get a loud and low pitched hum coming through what sounds like the back but sometimes the front also.
#3
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I haven't really put up a real post on here in a while, but the list of strange problems has been piling on.
1. Revving Idle -- For the first 10ish seconds the truck is on for the first time in the day, the truck revs itself slightly, yet enough that I can hear I can see the needle move and hear it in the exhaust. Any ideas? Cold Start Injector?
2. Brakes/Brake Pedal -- Mostly when I first start it, it's most noticeable the first time for the day, but i can still feel it when the trucks warm. Basically as the engines turning over, the brake pedal shakes loudly back and forth. This also happens sometimes when I pull out of my parking spot and brake to put it in drive and when stopping at lights, but it almost feels like a VERY heavy pulsating.
3. Steering -- I've about had it with this. Replaced the idler arm (plus got a brace), pitman arm, did the outer tie rod ends about 8 months ago, yet my steering wheel is still "not alignable" with the rest and the truck still seems to pull to the left. I'm thinking ball joints are the possible culprit.
Any help is appreciated
1. Revving Idle -- For the first 10ish seconds the truck is on for the first time in the day, the truck revs itself slightly, yet enough that I can hear I can see the needle move and hear it in the exhaust. Any ideas? Cold Start Injector?
2. Brakes/Brake Pedal -- Mostly when I first start it, it's most noticeable the first time for the day, but i can still feel it when the trucks warm. Basically as the engines turning over, the brake pedal shakes loudly back and forth. This also happens sometimes when I pull out of my parking spot and brake to put it in drive and when stopping at lights, but it almost feels like a VERY heavy pulsating.
3. Steering -- I've about had it with this. Replaced the idler arm (plus got a brace), pitman arm, did the outer tie rod ends about 8 months ago, yet my steering wheel is still "not alignable" with the rest and the truck still seems to pull to the left. I'm thinking ball joints are the possible culprit.
Any help is appreciated
2 worn bracket?? no ideas there...
3 your control arm bushings are shot. ball joints maybe.. but you cant align your rig with worn out parts.. get a three foot pry bar and look for play in things. ball joints. CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS. etc.....
hope that helpd
JT
Last edited by jtlinna3vze; 03-27-2008 at 04:59 PM.
#4
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thats maybe your tires going from \-/ to /-\ when your driven.. CA bushings??
Last edited by jtlinna3vze; 03-27-2008 at 04:59 PM.
#5
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1. cold start.. they all idle up to about 1400rpms at start up then drop as it warms up. edit- sorry i reread that first one.. thats not what your talking about hey?
2 worn bracket?? no ideas there...
3 your control arm bushings are shot. ball joints maybe.. but you cant align your rig with worn out parts.. get a three foot pry bar and look for play in things. ball joints. CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS. etc.....
hope that helpd
JT
2 worn bracket?? no ideas there...
3 your control arm bushings are shot. ball joints maybe.. but you cant align your rig with worn out parts.. get a three foot pry bar and look for play in things. ball joints. CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS. etc.....
hope that helpd
JT
#6
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yep. i did mine and it was 100K.. there a pain to change.. the bottoms are ok but the tops suck.. lots of salt around here.. if you do replace them id get the aftermarket ones that are hard poly. the stock rubbers just dont cut it.. also dont try to press them out.. waist of time. just burn them out with a torch.. if you keep warping rotors and one brake pad ( say the outside) is gone and the inside has alot left.. thats tell tail of those bushings.. when you hit the stoppers your tires go /-\ and tons of pressure goes to that pad plus tons of heat..
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#8
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get something long you can pry between the arm and the mount to sits in.. a three foot bar at least.. if you can move the arm twords the front or back of the truck there bad.. cuz your truck weighs more then that force.. this would be done on the lowers as the uppers are harder to tell because of the T-bars.. easyest to see if you can lift the truck and let the suspension hang.. and 1/8 of an inch at the bushing is like an inch at the wheel in toe..
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