That is not normal. The whole ignition/computer is fed through a piece of crap tiny wire. If it goes bad, why would the truck run good?

 

So no one else's in-dash volt meter clicks when their turn signal is on? I've checked voltages at computer input, and they have been all in spec. I don't know if my volt meter is just super sensitive or I've got some weird drain going on.

I can also feel a shift in power when my electric fan kicks on.

 

I used to notice a shift in power when I turned on my headlights, then I noticed some previous owner had cut off the body ground from the battery. (?!) Replaced that and it never happened again. I think my stereo even got louder.

Make sure all your grounds are good - pull them off and wire brush them till they're shiny. Do the same with your battery clamps.

With a previous truck I had issues with volts changing with all sorts of things - turn signals, headlights switched on, brights switched on. I went through all kinds of hell trying to figure it out and all it was was a super dirty positive connection on the battery. The truck was essentially running on alternator only, and it requires the battery to act as a sort of capacitor.

If this fixes nothing get your alternator checked out.

 

Hey andy, thanks for the reply.

Well I checked all the grounds with an ohm meter, but I never actually unbolted them and cleaned all of them...

I will take them off and wire wheel everything. The alternator is semi-new. I think changed within the last 5 years. I can't check amp output because my multimeter only works up to 10A. Volt is good. I think I get 14-15V at idle.

The battery is new, and the clamps are new. Some major wiring work had been done within the last few years as well, as a lot of the wires are new. Which freaks me out. The work was done at a reputable shop (ProTrux in San Marcos) but I've also heard of stories that they did crap work as well.

 

Yeah just checking ohms won't give you the full story. Imagine a little tiny wire - it can have very little resistance but if you try to pass large amounts of current through it you will have problems.

You should have a ground to the body on a short, heavy gauge cable right next to the battery. My current truck didn't have it and I have no idea why, but it sure fixed things.

 

Also, did you check compression with the truck warmed up and running in it's crappy state?

 

Well, ohms are ohms! Its the resistance within the wire, a physical property. But I will double check. I'm at my wits end.

Yes, I've run compression and its the same as before: 165 +/- 5 across the board.

 

sounds like it could also be a vacuum leak, or what helped cure my 3.0 was cleaning the MAF sensor, and make sure the shutter inside moves freely.

 

I have a weird feeling that the truck is just running too hot. The idle is fine when its cool, and all vacuum hoses have been replaced. I still haven't ruled out a vacuum leak though, but if its there, its damn hard to find.

My temp gauge reads right at 50% which seems to be normal. I can't find any information on the optimum operating temperature for a 22re, in degrees. The truck runs perfect until about 48% on the temp gauge. If it sits right beneath 50%, its still running good. All the cooling system components are new though. Unless the cheapo plastic radiator isn't exchanging enough heat, but I dont think thats the case either.

 

Anyone think this could be an bad IAC? I've already cleaned it twice. The PO used something in the cooling system that turned everything adobe red. I'm wondering if its plugging up the valve from opening and closing correctly.

 

Its certainly possible, if the valve is not operating properly it will affect how the engine runs.

I am sure that I have a vacuum leak where the throttle shaft enters the throttle body, when I spray propane there the rpms definitely change a little.

How it your intake air hose? Specifically the elbow off of the throttle body to the plastic pipe that goes over the radiator. Mine had a pretty sizable crack in one of the flex joints.

 

it sucks that your still having problems, i just changed out all the sensors ,filters (except my kn made the truck get drunk (seafoam) tightened up the cables for the tb and viola runs like a beast again. good luck on figuring it out

 

Yeah, its a bummer. Something is off for sure. I used to own a 22re, and I know what a good 22re is supposed to sound like, and feel like, power wise.

This one, every time I start it, it just sounds like crap. It sounds like it barely wants to start, and then it stumbles for a second, then starts idling. The idle goes up to 1800, sounds good... Then when it hits operating temperature, it will idle at 850, and its OK.

After I'm driving it for a while, and its all warmed up, it just gets even worse.

All of a sudden the RPM drops down to 500 rpm. It sounds like poop, the whole car is shaking (but really not bad --- but noticeable). Its super sluggish. I can get the idle back up to 850 by tapping the gas a few times. I can go 70 mph in it, but not much faster than that. I know I could hit 80+ in my old 22re.

 

x2. Excellent observation.

 

So the whole thing with the volt gauge moving around with a blinker or when I turn on my fan might be telling me that I have some bad electronics going on? Hmm. So this would get worse as the engine went into an open loop mode when warm because its relying on more sensors?

I can run a bigger gauge wire to the body I guess, and see if that helps.

 

Check the engine to frame/body grounds as well.

 

Yes, I am sure all the engine to body grounds are good. I took all of them off this last weekend and sanded down all the connections, making sure they were good. Also tested with multimeter as well for continuity to the battery obviously

I am a little concerned with the negative terminal ground to body. I might redo it. Two thick wires come from the negative terminal. One goes straight to body, the other one...does it go to ECU?

Im thinking I may try a new IACV only because I know the one I have has crud inside of it, even after cleaning it, I still don't feel confident with it.

 

My 86 4runner would do the whole flicking voltage gauge with the turn signals on or anytime the windshield wipers wiped. I just figured that the alternator was either weak or borderline on the supply side of things.

I put L.E.D lights everywhere I could and the gauge doesnt do it anymore. I guess there was enough draw with the incandescents to really affect things.

Hows the airboot?

 

I've got a straight aluminum pipe as an air intake. It was custom built by a hotrod shop. (It came on the truck). Looks pretty stout, no air leaks I could see or determine.

I personally don't think its an electrical issue.

My gut feeling is that its a mixture or gasket/vacuum issue. I'm completely stumped though.

 

You need to read this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rite-up-33526/