Still runs bad when warmed up
#121
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Hey nice call! I just plugged it with my finger and noticed an ever slow slight change in idle. Still though, didn't fix my problem, but good eye !
Ill go and get a new dipstick though, its toast, and doesn't make the best seal that is for sure.
Ill go and get a new dipstick though, its toast, and doesn't make the best seal that is for sure.
#122
I got an OEM dipstick from the stealership for 20$... Just looked it up on the Toyota Parts Online Sites and told my buddy at the dealer, "why is yours more?" ....he adjusted with my 20% off and alil more and voila. Maybe you can find it cheap on line from Toyota Parts Barn dot com.?
Best wishes on the diagnosing and SOLVING the problem, Baja! I know it's stressful, but you'll get it!
Best wishes on the diagnosing and SOLVING the problem, Baja! I know it's stressful, but you'll get it!
#123
Have you checked the Egr modulator valve. I went to Ecology here in Oceanside today and got 2 of them off of late 80's tercels and put one on my truck and it immediately smoothed out. I think mine had a torn diaphragm which would just be a big vacuum leak.
I probably am jinxing myself but I think its fixed. My truck used to: Not be able to idle under 1000 RPM, it would simply stutter and then die. I have read so much stuff about how the other parts of the Egr system are to blame but the modulator is the "brains" of the whole operation.
For $6.00 its worth a shot!
I probably am jinxing myself but I think its fixed. My truck used to: Not be able to idle under 1000 RPM, it would simply stutter and then die. I have read so much stuff about how the other parts of the Egr system are to blame but the modulator is the "brains" of the whole operation.
For $6.00 its worth a shot!
#124
Have you unplugged your o2 sensor once its warmed up to put in open loop (preprogramed fuel setting)? I know you have tested your fuel pressure , but have tested it while actually driving( under load)?
Have you tested your o2 sensor ( if its running lean you should be at the low end of the voltage range) while the engine is running to see which way its biased?
If you are lean beyond what the o2 sensor can adjust for you should be showing a lean code( unless code 25 is california only). That code should show up long before there is a drivability issue though.
Have you tested your o2 sensor ( if its running lean you should be at the low end of the voltage range) while the engine is running to see which way its biased?
If you are lean beyond what the o2 sensor can adjust for you should be showing a lean code( unless code 25 is california only). That code should show up long before there is a drivability issue though.
Last edited by sam333; Dec 5, 2010 at 08:10 PM.
#126
Well my $6.00 Modulator did not solve the problem 100%
I still had to manipulate the idle with my foot to keep it from dying so I finally got sick of it and spent the last 2 days going over most everything.
I opened up the wiring loom to look at the injector splices that some people have issue with, mine were all fine but I still soldered them anyway as well as 2 other ground splices,
I tell you though the one thing that fixed my problem was this really old tool I had hanging in the corner of my garage. I hadn't ever used it on the Toyota before and actually haven't used it since I parked my old Fastback a few years ago. Its called a Vacuum Gauge and it showed that I only had 11" of vacuum at idle, culprit was the wrong throttle body gasket. I have the newer throttle body and plenum but had used a older style gasket which DOES NOT WORK for those considering the swap.
Now I have 18" of vacuum at idle, the motor purrs and she don't die on her own anymore.
I still had to manipulate the idle with my foot to keep it from dying so I finally got sick of it and spent the last 2 days going over most everything.
I opened up the wiring loom to look at the injector splices that some people have issue with, mine were all fine but I still soldered them anyway as well as 2 other ground splices,
I tell you though the one thing that fixed my problem was this really old tool I had hanging in the corner of my garage. I hadn't ever used it on the Toyota before and actually haven't used it since I parked my old Fastback a few years ago. Its called a Vacuum Gauge and it showed that I only had 11" of vacuum at idle, culprit was the wrong throttle body gasket. I have the newer throttle body and plenum but had used a older style gasket which DOES NOT WORK for those considering the swap.
Now I have 18" of vacuum at idle, the motor purrs and she don't die on her own anymore.
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