Well, I retorqued the exhaust bolts again, but no difference.

Attached are the burnt areas on the manifold gasket.

I also took another video of the exhaust bump/bubble/hiccup I am getting, which I feel is related to my power issues.

Anyone hear anything out of the ordinary? Does it sound like an exhaust leak? I dont see how a manifold gasket could blow out in 2 days?

I tried stalling the engine with a 2x4 on the exhaust pipe, as well as a rag, and it wont stall out. I can't feel exhaust gasses leaving the manifold gasket. The entire exhaust is welded, so no leaks downstream. Its all brand new within the last 6 months as well.

HERES THE VIDEO


Heres the photos

 

It's all troo. It's actually painful to watch someone ignore good advice

In the vid it sounds like it's idling way too fast? Mine has that exhaust leak and runs great.

 

Are you talking about me ignoring the advice? I have already done this, and shown I know how to do this... I've been trying to get this truck running correct for 3 months and I've set valves, adjusted timing like 40 times.

Also I had the accelerator down so thats why it sounds like its idling high. I have it set at about 850 which I like.

 

Can anyone make anything of the video/pictures I attached? I'm getting ready to sell the truck if I can't figure this out. Its just been a pain in the ass.

 

As long as you're connecting the diagnostic jumper and the rpm changes before you time it, you're A-OK as far as I know. I can't imagine how many times that has been done wrong by many people including myself. I think I did it wrong many times if I remember correctly. I think I also put the distributer in one tooth off so it wouldn't quite reach the proper mark.

The battery cables are sometimes known to go bad. It's cheap to replace them and they influence every aspect of the motor when it's running. Mine didn't just not run, it dogged around real bad. It's amazing how tiny the wires are and how poorly they are connected.

You could run the unlit propane torch around the hoses and try to find any leaks.

Bogging down between shifts might be the idle set too high.

 

I wouldn't doubt its an electrical problem. I am unsure if its normal or not to have the car bog when I turn on my electrical fan.

Also, when I put on my turn signal, the voltmeter on the dash clicks back and forth, but I don't know if thats just normal or not.

 

Can anyone listen to the video and give an opinion on what that stutter is in the exhaust? I move the camera to the exhaust pipe towards the middle of the video, you can hear it better.

 

kinda sounds normal to me, anytime you run it like that at idle with that much throttle your bound to have a little pop like that.

 

hi i workon diesel engines but i had something similar the other day. compltely different vehicles but just thought id mention doing the computer. checked everything on the truck, swapped the computer. perfect-ish. (turns out the test ecm was bad as well but a different bad)

 

Haha this is why I like my carbed truck. I can do what I like and the motor is still happy.

 

in which I still think I have to do with my weber. Plugs aren't telling me otherwise though which is why I haven't re-jetted yet.

 

Really? Clearly he follows directions and I HIGHLY doubt having the idle a tiny bit high is causing this issue. FYI I see everyone saying to jump the test connectors but the FSM does not say to do this to set idle on the 22-re. From the FSM:

13. ADJUST IDLE SPEED
A. 22R-E AND 22R-TE ENGINE

(a) Preparation
- Air cleaner installed
- All pipes and hoses of air intake system connected
- All vacuum lines connected (i.e. EGR system, etc.)
- EFI system wiring connectors fully plugged
- Engine at normal operating temperature
- Accessories switched off
- Transmission in "N" range

(b) Connect a tachometer to the engine
Connect the tachometer positive (+) terminal to the ignition coil negative (-) terminal

-Notes on hooking up tach omitted-...

(c) Race the engine at 2500 rpm for approx. 2 minutes

(d) Set the idle speed by turning the idle speed adjusting screw

Idle speed: 22R-E 750rpm

(e) Remove the tachometer



And that's it. Nothing about the test connector. Where do people get that from? This is from my 88 4runner FSM but I've looked at other years and none of them say jump the connector to test idle. And FYI I like my idle around 850 as well and my truck runs perfect.

 

Baja I think you need to somehow get hold of a known-good ecu and swap it in.

 

the test connector your talking about and probably confusing is to set the timing. When connected properly the idle will go down because the timing will get less advanced.

 

Yeah I just hear people always say set idle with the test connector jumped. there's a post in this thread that says to do it.

 

When was I complaining the computer didn't work? So you're saying my power issues are all due to my idle being set to 850? I'm fairly certain that the tag under my hood states to set at 850 for 4x4 trucks?

I mean come on, its not that big of a deal. Its not the reason why its causing the problems I am having. I've been working on this truck the last 3 months making sure everything is at a stock configuration, like cam, rockers, ignition, etc.

I set my idle correctly when I adjust the timing anyways.

If I sit at idle with when the engine is cold, I do not get a bump in the exhuast. This still seems like a misfire to me. The whole engine jumps, and the RPM surge. This only happens when the engine hits operating temperature.

 

cap, rotor, plugs, wires they are all new right? plugs gapped correctly? what plugs?

 

All are from Toyota. I tried swapping them with NAPA parts just incase I didn't get a defective Toyota part. But put the Toyota ones back in. The plugs are from Toyota too, they are Denso. I had NGK in there as well. Plugs gapped via FSM spec.

Like I said, the truck ran supurb for 2 days after I did the HG. AFter I noticed the change, I rechecked valves, and timing. I re-torqued head bolts, and retorqued exhaust bolts when cold.

 

no white smoke coming out the exhaust right? , didnt see any in the vid so headgaskets fine..speaking of exhaust leaks..my muffler is split in two, at the bottom it makes a rattling noise really annoying, do you guys think it would sound better if I cut the muffler out right after the cat? (its on my 92 3.0L)

 

No .