Where should I check for the voltage loss?

Yes the starter relay.

Thanks

 

My truck did the "no start" "click" thing again.

I was able to test the wire going to the starter.

It read 7 volts on my voltmeter. Meaning it was 2 volts less than normal starting.

- Solenoid has 9v when cranking and 7v when acting up.
- Battery has 12.4v sitting and 10.6v cranking
- Relay "clicks" when power supplied


so, i'm not really familiar with how this works. Does a power wire go to the ignition -> relay -> clutch switch -> solenoid?

 

See the wiring diagram on the page linked above:

 

Sounds so easy if my relay was even close to the battery...like the picture in the link.

But this is where my relay is, right next to my left foot while driving.

 

Never mind, I found out what I'm going to do!

Thanks

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=310278

 

It would be easier to run a 30A relay controlled by the wire from the starter solenoid. Everything is right close to the battery and starter with easy access. I thought this was explained in the link below. I put mine in many years ago and did have a relay fail, but that was easy to diagnose, or jump start the solenoid if required. Your factory relay may click but there is not the required power in the circuit.

I did not try the cut and route wire trick, but that is an option to.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

 

Honestly I have no idea what your talking about. You completely confused me. lol.

Your going to have to be more descriptive or provide pics.

Oh btw, that link doesn't work.

 

Link works fine for me:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

There is a description of adding an aux. starter relay on that web page. Basically you let the wire that normally turns the solenoid on turn a relay on instead. Then have that relay turn on the solenoid. That relay is wired direct to the battery and so you basically bypass all the factory wiring and avoid having to find where the problem is. I did this on my '85 using a Painless Wiring Hot Shot starter relay kit.

 

Oh I see. I just did the other wire bypass the ignition switch route and I'm only getting 9.6volts to the solenoid. I guess it did jump up though.

 

It hasn't done the "click" think yet. It seems to start a little faster too and not lag.

Hopefully this permanently fixed my problem.

 

Wow. I stumbled upon this thread while going through flyingbrass' 22R Rebuild thread. I've had this truck since 1985, had the clicking about 15 years ago, removed the starter and bent the contacts out a little more so I could get a few more starts out of it. Haven't had a problem since. OBVIOUSLY, I don't drive this thing much anymore (I guess one reason is that the engine is currently in a million pieces) LOL, but for nearly 15 years, I was dreading the day the clicking would come back because I didn't think anybody would sell these! I would've been one to throw it away 'cause of ignorance. Now I know. THANK YOU!

 

Wish I would have seen this post, this time last month, I just replaced a starter about two weeks ago, and the contacts were worn out on it. I knew there had to be a way to fix them.

 

Glad I came to Yotatech today.
Sleipnir's starter was acting up, was going to ask what brand I should replace it with.. and through a few searches, stumbled across this.

May have to borrow my sister's Saturn for a week if my T100 acts up too much over the work week.. but hey, $15, 2 hour fix? Score.

 

can anyone give a good recommendation where to get the contacts?? none of the parts stores have them and i have no idea where a starter shop is in winston salem nc... i hate gone to dealers and dont like online...wait i think i just made this a no win

anyways i posted this on another thread but to get out of a bind i moved the contact in using a washer (my contacts put all other bad contact pictures to shame!) but it worked and should get me through till i can get the contacts and do it all over again! yea!!!

 

We carry them:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnlineOrdering

 

Thanks to this, I just saved 125 bucks.

I used 4crawlers WT and it was a great help. But I spent about 20 minutes looking for a bolt until I realized that his WT was for an 88. Hilarious.

This was a pretty simple fix that took me about 3.5 hours with smoke breaks and such. I took just as long to get the tire off than it did to get the starter out. Stupid stock rims and their compression notches.

Thanks again for the info and help.

 

Awesome write up! Thanks mate. You just save me $150.

When replacing all the contacts, put on electrolytic grease. Auto parts shops sell it for spark plugs cheap. This will prevent the contact from getting corroded and make better connections....
Especially if you are running your starter through the rivers and mud!
I like Permatex:
http://www.permatex.com.au/_products...ease-1411.aspx

BTW, if you want to get into space try Mars One:
http://applicants.mars-one.com/

I'm in for that ride:
http://applicants.mars-one.com/profi...4-8950ee05cadd

Cheers,
-Hbom

 

1 Cent Solenoid Contact Repair job:

I have to fix my truck before the long weekend... and I can't find the parts locally (Sydney)... or more to the point, in walking distance. I also can't find anyone who sells sheet copper so I can just make the part. Shipping on the parts would take a week and the Dealership would have to special order it for around $20 and takes 2 weeks. The best I could do was a piece of copper pipe, so I chose a different method:

Cut an Australian 1 cent coin (1919) to shape. It's a combination material of copper, so it's also harder than the original. It will get me on the road and probably last longer than just straight copper contacts. See Photos.

Needed: old Australian 1 Cent coin (or old Mexico 100 peso) Hack Saw (diagonal cutters), Drill, vice grips, sand paper / file.

All up, the manufature took about 40 min.
-H