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So I think its time for lift

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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 06:37 AM
  #1  
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So I think its time for lift

I think I am finally going to bite the bullet and lift my truck a bit. Since I put on the 33s there is some rubbing in front at lock and Im tired of how stiff it rides with the T-bar cranked and it still has forward rake. The previous owner put lifted leafs in the rear and a 28mm T-bar (not sure who's) on the truck. I feel like I am in a martini shaker alot of the time. I dont think a bracket lift is what I need Im gona do 1.5" bj spacers and a 2" BL from 4crawler. I think I should also do shocks at the same time as mine look really old and I have no clue what they are etc. I need some reccomendations on shocks should I be using something with longer travel etc. I know people on here are using pro comps and bilsteins etc etc but I know there are alot of options so I wasnt really sure which application would be correct so some help in that area would be apreciated. Also with the BJ spacers AND the BL will the brake lines still be ok or will they need to be extened? Thanks guys!

Last edited by SKNKWRX; Nov 10, 2007 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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Hey, I'm searchin for the same stuff. I would say do the Bilsteins, although as you said, there are a lot of choices and I mean a lot. Of them all the shocks I liked most are Bils, KYB, Tokico, Monroe, & Edelbrock. What size tires did you go with? 285/75s? And they are still rubbing with a tbar crank? I've read of members not extending their brake lines even with a 2"BL, but I'm doing the 1".
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 06:56 AM
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OME makes a popular shock. You can still use your stock ones with the spacers though if you want. Now to soften up that ride, the spacers will help. If that does not do it enough, get some stock t bars. Those 28mm are massively stiffer than stock and will flex/ride like crap.

Brake lines should be Ok. You can read up more on the body lift at www.4crawler.com.

Frank
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:58 AM
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shocks

I have Skyjacker 7000 3-4 inch lift shocks. I have ball joint spacers 1.5 inches of lift plus t-bars cranked 1 inch total 2.5 inches of suspension lift and I love those shocks they are so smooth on bumps I also have 3 inch body lift
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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Your sig says 33x10.50, but IIRC they're actually 285's (33x11.50).

Have you beat down the pinch weld?

How much backspacing on the rims?

BJ spacer with relaxed tbars and body lift is a good option. trdparts4u sells kits with the spacers and the right length shocks.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tc

Your sig says 33x10.50, but IIRC they're actually 285's (33x11.50). whoopsie!

Have you beat down the pinch weld? NOPE

How much backspacing on the rims? Not sure how would I measure that?

BJ spacer with relaxed tbars and body lift is a good option. trdparts4u sells kits with the spacers and the right length shocks.
It rubs inside on the plastic guard and on the corners of the front air dam.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SKNKWRX
It rubs inside on the plastic guard and on the corners of the front air dam.
Bj spacers and a 1" BL should take care of that.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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1" BL will definitely take care of that.

Hell, about 15 mins with a 5lb hammer will take care of that.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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i would do either of a few things...

contact a guy on here named strap22. he is an authorized dealer of ome shocks and springs. he put together packages for our trucks to get a good 2 inch lift, and to correct for the back sag. needless to say, i havent saved up the money for it, its the best you can probably get for your money.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by tc
1" BL will definitely take care of that.

Hell, about 15 mins with a 5lb hammer will take care of that.
Have you seen my truck? I aint hittin nothin with no hammer

he put together packages for our trucks to get a good 2 inch lift, and to correct for the back sag.

Not trying to correct rear sag quite the oposite, raise the front up to match the rear and soften the ride. I know the lift will solve the rubbing problem I want to know if I need a longer travel shock.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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You don't hit anything visible. Search on "pinchweld". The hammered area is behind the plastic you're rubbing on.

The way I did the bumper, nobody ever noticed and would not have thought it came that way.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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Hey, so when you hammer the pinchweld, do you leave the plastic cover on? or take it off? I'm sure it would rub on the plastic 1st anyways right?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:39 AM
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Well, if you do it soon enough, I think you can leave it on. I waited too long and kinda folded up the bottom of the plastic and had to cut the corner of it off, which is the worst case - just the corner. And that was with 34x9.50's on non-stock wheels.

The key is 10.50 or narrower on stock spec rims.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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Hmm... well since I recently painted my truck, I have yet to reinstall the plastic wheelwell covers. I might as well hammer the pinch in or trim it, then put the cover over it. I just thought the tire would hit the plastic wheelwell cover way before the pinchweld.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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Well of course it will, but if there's nothing behind it, the plastic will just bend out of the way and not hurt anything.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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We have some new options for IFS lifts on the website.

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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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So more decisions / confusion..... Should I do shocks BJ spacers low profile bumpstops and a 2" body lift, or should I just spend a bit more for a pro-comp 4" bracket lift? I am not sure what the differance is between 2.5" and 3.25" rear u-bolts on the kit and if i get a bracket lift kit are there other things I have to worry about like steering parts brake lines and so on. One thing I can never get on here is enough real definative reasons for one or the other just alot of opinionated bickering. The things I do know are I am NOT interested in SAS and I drive on the road alot more than off, so I want it to be capable offroad but a bit more comfy on. I currently have 2" rear lift all leaf spring and 1-1.5" t bar crank in the front on a 28mm bar so it is BOUNCY. What id really like is to find a coil over set up that gets rid of the torsion bar set up in front but the only one seems to require fiberglass fenders due to travel length (JD Fabrication). The procomp lift I can get for about 770$ with their best quality adjustable shocks. combine the BJ spacers body lift and new shocks and the price differential isnt all that huge to me. Any helpful info would be great. Sorry thisis what happens when you spend a saturday afternoon surfing car sites online lol.

http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products...&ProductID=726
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