Has anyone wrenched too hard on a stubborn BVSV and snapped the thing off at the threads? If so, is it possible to extract the broken piece? How? Is it worth it?

There is current in there, from what I can gather, and I don't know what's under the threaded portion, so I'm not too excited about drilling.

And before you say it... yeah, I know. Pretty dumb move.

Any help would be appreciated. Tried searching but all I found was how to fix the broken plastic nipples.

 

Go to sears and get a craftsman extractor set.

Start looking for a used valve, you will crap when you see what Toyota wants for a new one.

 

I've already got a replacement I pulled from a junkyard. I just need to get the stub out. Any idea what sits underneath the valve? Anything sensitive, or is it just heat sensing? As far as I know the valve is closed when the engine is cold, then opens up when the engine gets to temp, triggering the venting of the canister. Does that sound right?

 

Just what is a BVSV I have no idea??

Just what is it part of??

 

It's a bi-metallic switch valve that vents evap from the charcoal canister back into the intake to reburn. Smog crap for Commiefornia. It sits up against the firewall, under the plenum. PITA to get to.

Just as a foot note, I ended up drilling into the broken part, very carefully. I eventually hit liquid. Made me nervous, turned out to be coolant. Tore the hood off to get in deeper. Turns out, it threads into a small, removable sensor bank filled with coolant.

Tore it out and went to work. After about two hours of carefully drilling, prying and otherwise removing metal, I got the little SOB out. New one went in on partially damaged threads, so I may be heading to the junkyard with crossed fingers.

Anyway, that's the story so far...

 

"Bi-Metallic Vacuum Switching Valve" also called the TVV ("Thermal Vacuum Valve").

Good job getting the stub out! Those extractors (easy-outs) are oft-times just a curse; if the stub is corroded in so tightly that you can break a 14mm part, the hardened, smaller, steel tool just isn't strong enough.

 

I ran into the exact same thing a couple of months ago. I just hooked a hose up directly from the charcoal canister to the intake as someone had suggested to me. Works perfectly fine.

 

You can hook the line from the canister directly to the intake manifold, It opens at 98f and keeps a 3lbs vacuum on the canister.