Hello and thanks to all that reply
without exaggeration in the 2 years I have owned this 1987 it’s a 22re I have been down a documented 38 times and at least 12 more so this is par for the course however at 62 and an imposter mechanic I have less and less patience and endurance when I am not able to rectify the mechanical malady
so much done I’ll give a brief history meaning prior 24 hours before I went dead in a parking lot in eureka springs Arkansas
suspecting a head gasket leak and did a compression test yesterday wet and dry and results were favorable all above 165 and as hi as 175
installed new plugs and hi and wires just because and checked fuel pressure right out of the tank because I think I have a pressure or volume issue
at cold start injector pressure was 34 with vac and around 40 without and out of tank 40 with 11 volts
been running her without vac to pressure regulator for obvious reasons but I’ll get to the point
was running ok started to miss and break up than quit
my tps had come right off the wire tie holding it broke
installed it and no start
hit wired at dia port fuel pump and fuel to rail no doubt grounded plug and spark at plug as well as grounding coil spark
plugs dry
12 volts to 2 of the injectors I checked assumeing 12 at others as well
please help
code 7 blinks
pulled ign ,engine fuse and dissconnetd meg battery terminal
not fireing at all
what am I missing
thank you

 

With compression, reasonably close timing, fuel, and spark you have internal combustion.

You've done compression. Checking timing and spark is easy. Fuel is a little tougher, especially on injected vehicles, as psi is important.
If you decide to randomly throw parts at it( I don't recommend), try and get oem or equivalent quality. Otherwise you may remove a perfectly good used part and install a less-than-great new part and create a new problem that will be masked by the original issue.

The fact that your vehicle has broken down 38+ times would indicate:
1) you bought a used Toyota that was badly neglected and you need to invest.
2) Not great quality in the parts installed during repairs(I don't consider most of the chain parts stores quality)
3)Band-aid repairs that aren't addressing underlying issues. Incomplete repairs
4)lack of a FSM

 

I agree with some of your response none of which gives me any indication of how to pursue
most of my problems are from no use not advise as when purchased it has 52 ,000 and currently 87,000
I’ve replaced many parts twice because of quality sSuch as boosters, alternator And pressure regulator but I have not put a band aid on anything and am striving for getting her up to par
I happen to have a junk yard in a guys back yard with many parts for this so I have thrown some parts at it because they were cheap and if they were not the problem I have a gem of a spare which I
fuel psi now is only 35 with no vac and with the fp port engaged
this’is not an ocr relay problem I have power to pump both at ing and than maf
i should have more but I know from experience it is adaquate to start it
in just checked timing and it is right on so can anyone give me an avenue to persue and not assume my history with my home
thsnks

 

...

 

cleaned tps and now code 1

 

I have no clue, but will be watching to see how you figure it out. Good luck

 

You said its not firing at all. Have you checked your ignition components? Distributor cap, rotor, etc.
is it turning over at all?

 

yes rotor cap wires coil all checked good spark at plugs

 

If you have good compression, spark at the plugs, we’ll assume timing is ok, then the only remaining question is fuel. Either low psi or just bad gas. Does starter fluid do anything?

 

Thanks for the input
I just rechecked my compression on all 4 it’s good
with the fp jumped at diagnostic port I have 38 psi
grounded plugs and have small blue spark
filled up yesterday and drove about 20 miles than it quit
cannot imagine that being the case
I discovered the tps was disconnected and blamed it for the stall and after plugging in no start
have a week battery But am useing a jump box and it delivers 12 as I just checked
i adjusted valves 2 days ago could that be a clue to it
i do not see how for if I failed to do it correctly or did not tighten one that would show up in compression test
is that correct thinking?
should I pull the cover and check valves
no have not tried starter fluid but am going to try and get a ride to get some
I have carb and choke cleaner but I don’t think it’s volitol enough

 

Valve adjustment will make it run crappy if not done properly, but wouldn't keep it from running... low voltage at the battery and a weak alternator could be a big problem.
but. It sounds more like fuel or moisture problem.

 

I did not think so about the valves and it was running great prior to starting to miss than stall
Valves seem good quiet and there was a improvement
alternator is couple months old and I have a gauge on dash and it’s putting out almost 14
going to try some either when I can get a ride and I think I’ll get a noid light when I return orileys compression gauge and fuel pressure gauge
still troubled over the tps being disconnected and than the no start
coincidental does not seem realistic
could that have caused the ecu to reset or something
thanks

 

Sounds like loose or bad wiring. It is a semi rare problem bu it happens on these old trucks. The splice for the fuel injector has failed or is failing. All of the injectors pulse at the same time, this is called batch fired injection. The splice is located under the intake manifold and inside if the wiring harness loom. The factory spliced all 4 injector wires together (the ground side, the computer grounds the injectors to fire them) in the harness.

Here is a link with pictures to further explain.
Injector wiring link

Could all so be a problem wih the injector resistor mounted on the passenger inner fender. The older pre 88 trucked used low impendence injectors and require the resistor. Its possible the resistor has failed.

 

Thank you
I tested the resistor and I think because I have a cheap meter it will not read and the resistance comes up as 1
i have a spare same reading and I have another meter that is giving me something but the #s are not complete on the screen so I cannot decipher them
I am assuneing they are both good
moved on to Ecu and pins have 12 and I checked continuity on 1 and 4 and it was good
thought I had it when I tightened the ground under plentum but no go
put a noid light on 2 injectores and nothing

i think it’s not making ground
would I have continuity if I had something wrong in the harness loom
seems strange that the tps falls off and at same time I have a wire jiggle loose or short or something but that appears to be the case so I’ll undo the 33 year old wrapping
so far I have not been hastled by authorities and I have only had to pay 5 dollars a day but I am ready to leave

 

Need to check continuety between the injector plugs and the wires at the the computer (ground side if injector plugs). If they check out it sounds like the computer may have failed. Maybe the tps coming loose shorted out someting in the computer.

 

I've read multiple threads about corrosion causing issues where the injector wires splice together in the wiring harness.

 

The resister or solinoid has 2 to 3 for resistance and there is continuity from injector plugs to wires at ecu
i think that tells me that wiring is good and should be getting signal if one is being sent
I’ll open up the ecu and see if I can see anything that looks like a short
any other ideas
thanks everyone

 

Hi and thanks
I have checked power to pins 10 and 20 at ecm checks out
going to check the e10 and e20 the wires that run to the manifold ground and splice.
Any help on the distributor ne circuit
research has told me that without that signal there would be no pulse. I do not know how to check that. It seems that one goes to ground and the other the igniter. The ground that was referred to in the back of engine drivers side was a little dirty and corroded but it appears to be a chassis to engine ground because the other end is attached to the firewall.
oh , the 2 wires from tps that go to the ecm had continuity the other 2 ? And after removing computer fudging around under the intake I got a brief fire and then another and that was it so possibly I moved it jiggles something enough to make contact?
the test procedure to jump the back of the ecm plug from 10 to eo1 and eo2 is not producing any voltage which confuses me. I have voltage at 10 and 20 so if I jam a paper clip into the back over to e01 that’s like a continuation of the wire and it should also be hot but it appears it does not. Gonna do it again because it may be the technician. Any thoughts anybody
thank you

 

And after removing computer fudging around under the intake I got a brief fire and then another and that was it so possibly I moved it jiggles something enough to make contact?
not sure what this means, could you clarify? The truck started?

 

no it did not start but it fired rather that just turning over. Brief but she wanted to start. She’s getting sick of the scenery also
ok. I checked engine ground and all tests good
i figured out the jumper clip and I think the results mean something good.
With the plugs in the ecm and jumping pin 10 to e01 there is 12 volts
when jumping 20 pin to e02 there is no voltage and to verify I removed plug and checked continuity on my paper clip and that was good.
What do you think