sas
#1
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sas
I was just wondering about how many people on here has the sas conversion. Also about how much did it cost for you? And is it worth the money?
#3
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I would run the IFS until IT becomes the limitation of what you can wheel - which is probably not going to happen for ost of us. Once you go SAS, you are looking at dramatically reducing the performance of the truck on the road. To make it worth it, you will be running 35's-40's, locked both ends, probably a crawler,...
The truck in the 5th and 8th pix from the top is IFS with 32's and ARB's.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25650
I took the 8th pic standing with my feet about 1' over the spotter (who is 6'-1") head. The truck was darn near vertical!
The truck in the 5th and 8th pix from the top is IFS with 32's and ARB's.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25650
I took the 8th pic standing with my feet about 1' over the spotter (who is 6'-1") head. The truck was darn near vertical!
#4
Are you rock crawling?
If not, then there is no need. I would prefer a pre-runner style anyway.
If your not satisfied w/ ur IFS and you want something better but dont do hardcore rock crawling, then get the total chaos Ifs thing or the Camburg Ifs systems.
If not, then there is no need. I would prefer a pre-runner style anyway.
If your not satisfied w/ ur IFS and you want something better but dont do hardcore rock crawling, then get the total chaos Ifs thing or the Camburg Ifs systems.
#6
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Toyota's IFS is one of the strongest built, but as with everything else used in offroading, it can only take so much.
Lockers and tires are much more important for offroading than flex. Its all about the traction.
Lockers and tires are much more important for offroading than flex. Its all about the traction.
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#9
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Originally Posted by tc
you are looking at dramatically reducing the performance of the truck on the road.
#10
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I recently put a SAS in my 4Runner, swapping the rear coils to leafs at the same time.
It does ride more "aggresively" on the street. A bit stiffer, more truck like. Personally, I like it and expected the new ride with the swap. PLus, I don't get cut off anymore and merging is easier.
Works much better than IFS off road at low speed. Very bullet proof and lots of articualtion. Lockers help a lot with IFS, lockers with SAS is just another level. A very good level.
Other SAS pluses: you can change your oil without having everything pour over your front diff, you can drop your oil pan, you can get to many engine accesories that were hard to even reach with IFS, the fuel filter has no torsion bars in the way and your dog can walk easily under the truck.
Basically, a SAS is a lot of work and costs a good deal of money. You'll have to add for re-gearing, locker(s), armor, bigger tires, less MPG etc... which all add up. I am very glad I did mine. I learned a ton, have a truck that I built and can go many more places without effort. By the time I start to struggle off road now, I am really in some heavy stuff.
I will agree with other comments, wheel your IFS until it limits where you can go, or you get tired of repairing it should it start to fail. That is what I did my my '90 IFS Toy pickup before this one. Also take a look at how often and where you want to use the truck.
.... and search "SAS" everywhere. I researched the project for over a year. There is a lot to learn.
It does ride more "aggresively" on the street. A bit stiffer, more truck like. Personally, I like it and expected the new ride with the swap. PLus, I don't get cut off anymore and merging is easier.
Works much better than IFS off road at low speed. Very bullet proof and lots of articualtion. Lockers help a lot with IFS, lockers with SAS is just another level. A very good level.
Other SAS pluses: you can change your oil without having everything pour over your front diff, you can drop your oil pan, you can get to many engine accesories that were hard to even reach with IFS, the fuel filter has no torsion bars in the way and your dog can walk easily under the truck.
Basically, a SAS is a lot of work and costs a good deal of money. You'll have to add for re-gearing, locker(s), armor, bigger tires, less MPG etc... which all add up. I am very glad I did mine. I learned a ton, have a truck that I built and can go many more places without effort. By the time I start to struggle off road now, I am really in some heavy stuff.
I will agree with other comments, wheel your IFS until it limits where you can go, or you get tired of repairing it should it start to fail. That is what I did my my '90 IFS Toy pickup before this one. Also take a look at how often and where you want to use the truck.
.... and search "SAS" everywhere. I researched the project for over a year. There is a lot to learn.
#11
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Sorry, I probably wasn't real clear about what I meant. Once you commit to SAS, IMHO, you need to build it to run the trails that will require the extra flex - trails that you couldn't do with IFS (Billings/21 Road, Buena Vista Carnage, Upper Helldorado). I recommend that people considering SAS should really be looking if you need to build a buggy.
The difference is not so much from the solid axle itself (although the increase in unsprung weight is significant), but all the stuff you do at the same time to progress to this level of trail difficulty - big tires, soft/flexy springs & shocks, lift, gears, crawler, rollcage, etc. For 4Runners, you need to plan what you're going to do with the glass - the trails we're talking about are hungry for rear glass.
I am certainly no SFA expert, however, I have had the opportunity to compare two otherwise identical 4Runners. Mine is a HELLUVA lot better on the road that Lysmachia's, hers is a helluva lot better off road. That's not say hers is bad on the road, but it definitely requires 100% attention all the time.
I had a long travel setup on my last truck...Man I miss that thing...
The difference is not so much from the solid axle itself (although the increase in unsprung weight is significant), but all the stuff you do at the same time to progress to this level of trail difficulty - big tires, soft/flexy springs & shocks, lift, gears, crawler, rollcage, etc. For 4Runners, you need to plan what you're going to do with the glass - the trails we're talking about are hungry for rear glass.
I am certainly no SFA expert, however, I have had the opportunity to compare two otherwise identical 4Runners. Mine is a HELLUVA lot better on the road that Lysmachia's, hers is a helluva lot better off road. That's not say hers is bad on the road, but it definitely requires 100% attention all the time.
I had a long travel setup on my last truck...Man I miss that thing...
#12
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Originally Posted by CraZyRunner
I was just wondering about how many people on here has the sas conversion. Also about how much did it cost for you? And is it worth the money?
Having said that, only you can tell if it's the right thing for you. Find someone with SAS in your area and go for a ride in it. Maybe drive it a little if they let you. That'll help you to see if that's what you want. Most people have another mode of transportation for work.
Most people that have done SAS will tell you that they didn't say "I want to go 4wheeling...let's do SAS". They wheel with what they have, learn as they go, and do mods to get there. I think the learning process is priceless.
Last edited by anthony1; 02-17-2006 at 08:46 AM.
#13
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Yeah, but lysmachia still got the relatively stock links in the rear, thus her continuous complaints about being tippy. That's a known problem with keeping the links and not going either leafs or custom links. I don't think hers is a good baseline to judge.
#14
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I will say, I went with leafs in the back of my 4Runner because I didn't want the coils/ factory link set-up that high for various reasons. My setup handles very well in regards to body roll on road, and is much simpler with a ton off flex offroad.
Only have to buy the leaves and spring hangers to convert the back. But there is a lot of labor to remove all the factory coil spring components. The bulk of the cost was for the front end.
Only have to buy the leaves and spring hangers to convert the back. But there is a lot of labor to remove all the factory coil spring components. The bulk of the cost was for the front end.
#15
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Point well made, Robinhood, but that's just that much more work to add to the "while you're at it" list.
Personally, I think MOST of her current tippy problems are due to the completely dearched POS AllPro springs in the front.
Personally, I think MOST of her current tippy problems are due to the completely dearched POS AllPro springs in the front.
#16
I plan on doing a SAS hopefully soon. I had concerns about the rear coils on mine to keep a 4 link rear or swap to leafs. If I keep the 4 link I'll have to run new link bars cause I plan on going up a few more inches(about 7"). would it still be better to go to leafs or stay with the 4 link???
#18
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Maybe I have my terminology backwards ... always confusing sprung/unsprung. LOL
I mean the moving parts "below" the springs that will have to respond to bumps. In a solid axle, you have the whole thing - including the diff and driveshaft - moving. In an IFS, you just have the control arms and CV joints - the diff is connecte to the frame. The solid axle weighs a HELLUVA lot more than the control arms and CV joints!
I mean the moving parts "below" the springs that will have to respond to bumps. In a solid axle, you have the whole thing - including the diff and driveshaft - moving. In an IFS, you just have the control arms and CV joints - the diff is connecte to the frame. The solid axle weighs a HELLUVA lot more than the control arms and CV joints!
#19
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I am in the midst of rebuilding my axle and will have the swap doen in the next week or so, sky front and marlin rear. All together parts total is about $2800. Keep in mind that I work at 4wheel parts so I can get a lot of stuff cheap. tc said right... wheel with what you have until it isn't enough then mod, whatever that might be is entirely up to you
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