ROCK Piston Rings..help
#1
ROCK Piston Rings..help
For the oil rings spacer...do i just put it in there and butt it up against the other side? Do i need to overlap and some how put them together? im kind of confused...the old spacer had a fastener...
#4
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like olharleyman said, clock the rings too. If you put the gap on the top ring towards the front of the engine (12 o'clock), put the second ring at 3 or 9, and the oil ring at 9 or 3 (opposite of #2 ring). You want around 120 degrees between the gaps in the rings if possible. 180 degree clocking is option and will seal better, but they won't last as long.
#5
one more question. Haynes manual says to put the second ring in after the oil ones...obviously..but it says to put the MARK facing UP. These rings dont have a mark on them.. theres writing on the rings around the ends though, saying Rock rings, std 1.5. Im assuming the writing just faces up?
Last edited by 9o7yota; 09-24-2009 at 09:40 PM.
#6
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Ya the ROCK faces upward toward the valves big deal to get them facing correctly both top rings go ROCK facing upward and the same with these make sure to clock them opposite each other at the gaps.
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#8
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#9
New question, ill keep it in this thread only because its still a part of the pistons but not the rings. On the caps for the connecting rods there are the spots to fit the lip of the bearing inserts. 3 of the rods i got back from the machine shop have the caps with 1 side being no lips, and the other side having both of them. 1 rod has the lip on either side...
basically...does it matter what way the bearings are inserted...should the lips be on opposite sides or on the same side... it looks like it almost should be put on the same side with the way it kind of lines up with another small notch.
-i would upload pics of it but im sooooo lazy.
basically...does it matter what way the bearings are inserted...should the lips be on opposite sides or on the same side... it looks like it almost should be put on the same side with the way it kind of lines up with another small notch.
-i would upload pics of it but im sooooo lazy.
#10
Contributing Member
New question, ill keep it in this thread only because its still a part of the pistons but not the rings. On the caps for the connecting rods there are the spots to fit the lip of the bearing inserts. 3 of the rods i got back from the machine shop have the caps with 1 side being no lips, and the other side having both of them. 1 rod has the lip on either side...
basically...does it matter what way the bearings are inserted...should the lips be on opposite sides or on the same side... it looks like it almost should be put on the same side with the way it kind of lines up with another small notch.
-i would upload pics of it but im sooooo lazy.
basically...does it matter what way the bearings are inserted...should the lips be on opposite sides or on the same side... it looks like it almost should be put on the same side with the way it kind of lines up with another small notch.
-i would upload pics of it but im sooooo lazy.
I hope that's what your talking about can't picture the CAPS and LIPS in my head because you and I may have different ideas of what your describing.
#11
lips as in... spots for the small lip on the bearing pieces..that lock it into place.
Edit: My haynes manual says to put the top ring at 7:30(clocking)...second ring 180 degrees out at 2:30.
then the oil rings top and bottom staggered at 4:30 and 10:30...
Ive read to do it 12 : 3 like you said... for longer ring life.
12 : 6 would be the same as 7:30 : 2:30 ... for quicker seating of the rings//shorter ring life... what is preferrable? should i go with the haynes or nott
Edit: My haynes manual says to put the top ring at 7:30(clocking)...second ring 180 degrees out at 2:30.
then the oil rings top and bottom staggered at 4:30 and 10:30...
Ive read to do it 12 : 3 like you said... for longer ring life.
12 : 6 would be the same as 7:30 : 2:30 ... for quicker seating of the rings//shorter ring life... what is preferrable? should i go with the haynes or nott
Last edited by 9o7yota; 09-25-2009 at 06:23 PM.
#12
Contributing Member
If you look close you can see mine do the same thing and I have not had an issue with it , once they are torqued to spec they are set and will be no problem as long as you don't have any clearance issue's with the crank
#13
Contributing Member
lips as in... spots for the small lip on the bearing pieces..that lock it into place.
Edit: My haynes manual says to put the top ring at 7:30(clocking)...second ring 180 degrees out at 2:30.
then the oil rings top and bottom staggered at 4:30 and 10:30...
Ive read to do it 12 : 3 like you said... for longer ring life.
12 : 6 would be the same as 7:30 : 2:30 ... for quicker seating of the rings//shorter ring life... what is preferrable? should i go with the haynes or nott
Edit: My haynes manual says to put the top ring at 7:30(clocking)...second ring 180 degrees out at 2:30.
then the oil rings top and bottom staggered at 4:30 and 10:30...
Ive read to do it 12 : 3 like you said... for longer ring life.
12 : 6 would be the same as 7:30 : 2:30 ... for quicker seating of the rings//shorter ring life... what is preferrable? should i go with the haynes or nott
#14
yeah ur pictures are the main bearings though.. Im talking about the rod bearings. The top part has an oil hole. so i know how that goes in obviously, but the bottom cap can be put on backwards...which is the right way..if there is one?
#16
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Damn thats the one picture I seem to have forgot to take but as I remember as long as the top one is correct there should be no difference to the bottom and I did mine so that the overhang/lip was least likely to stick out one side or the other.
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#18
haha, yeah...when i was putting in the rings 2 days ago i forgot to make sure i put the top ring on 2 of the pistons correctly...turns out i did but i still had to pull the pistons to double check. The caps actually turned out to have a correct way to face, with the mark facing forward...so harley, i hope you put your caps on correctly for the connecting rods
#19
Im putting new rings in and was hopping to get input on ring gap? I have a 22r and wanted to know what gaps are exceptable. Plus the ideal gap for the rings would be nice? Thanks
Last edited by The84toyota; 11-29-2009 at 11:17 AM.
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