This thing seems to be tucked underneath the transmission cross mount. Am I not seeing this right, or do I have to remove the transmission cross mount just to replace the fuel filter? To be exact I have a 95 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext Cab (pre tacoma) w/ 3VZ-E.

Another question I've always wondered about these trucks, including the 4runners (dont see the need to create another thread about it)
Why is it the rear suspension always sags on these trucks / suvs??? Wear and tear? I seem to see it on good condition as well as rough condition ones.

 

The fender line on the rear of the 4rnr's, atleast, is lower than in the front giving the appearance of sag even if the suspension is not actually fatigued. That throws some people off. What I've noticed with the leaf style suspension is that the metal used, it seems, has a short life. IOW's, it may be they didn't use the best metal. Run a search on "saggy rear" for more opinions on this.

You don't have to remove the crossmember. It's just a pain to get to. But, there are threads covering the procedure with tips and tricks to doing the job as painlessly as possible. I started one a while back, if you'd like to read that. Just type in my username under "threads started by" in your search using fuel filter as your keyword. Of course, there are other threads by other members that may be better.

 

Fuel filter should be on the passenger side frame. Not on any cross member. Search ZUK MOD,and you will find your fix for a saggy rear end

 

Holy hell. I just spent 4 hours replacing this fuel filter, adopting what I could from thook's write up, only to start the truck up and have is spew leaking gas everywhere. I was hoping it would stop but running for 5 minutes there's about 2 gallons of gas in the bucket I have underneath. I've replaced motors, clutches, transmissions, installed rockers, cams etc.... but this is a Royal PITA. F this god damned ˟˟˟˟. I smell like gas (IT NEVER STOPPED POURING GAS WHILE I WORKED ON IT FOR 4 HOURS), my tools are drenched, and my saturday is gone. Not to mention the amount of brain cells I lost huffing gas for 4 hours. Now I get to do this ˟˟˟˟ all over tomorrow on my last day off because it's my only source of transportation. I'd like to find the Japanese engineer that thought of putting this under the cross member and punch him straight in the throat. Forgive my aggression folks, but I'm pissed. I yelled out a few curse words while working and I know my neighbor heard it, I saw him walk outside after a loud ˟˟˟˟ YOU to the fuel filter. Replaced my girlfriends fuel filter in her 2005 ford freestyle today too, 30 minutes. 30 damn minutes. And that includes me using a drimmel to the plastic clips because it included ones that were too big.

 

95blacktoy, you have the same EXACT truck I do. Not on the crossmember, ABOVE it, tucked away. Take a gander at the output side of your fuel filter.... that nut has to come off.

 

Update: I ruined the fuel filter I just installed trying to tighten that output nut. Went and bought another fuel filter and borrowed my friends compressor and air tools. Took off the cross mount and had it done in 2 hours not including cleanup.
˟
Let this serve as a forewarning: If you have an air compressor, take off the damn cross mount and go that way.
˟

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f104...elines-200183/
Watch your mouth.

 

Stop flexing those e-muscles, keyboard cowboy. You tell me to watch my mouth and read a link to rules that I've already read and expect to command respect from me or anyone else?

You know what this tells me? You're just an underachieving jackass compensating for your lack of authority outside of the forums.

I read the rules and I'm obviously not trying to get around the filters. Furthermore, they're asterisks you moron. This forum is populated by adults. If asterisks offend you maybe you should tell your mommy to start limiting your Internet access.

Obviously hiding behind a monitor and keyboard has got to your head, because you don't tell people you don't know to, "watch your mouth." Take your condescending candy ass over to a honda forum; maybe they'll be more accepting of you there.



EDIT: 95blackToy, thook, thank you for you contribution to my thread. :thumbsup

 

not really too concerned about how you feel about being told what to do. the rules are the rules, this is a family oriented site where language and inappropriate behavior are prohibited, subject to punishment dictated by the staff. if i hurt your feelings, too bad. its everyones responsibility to maintain an appropriate atmosphere.

 

I heard they give out free punch and pie too!

Fuel filter is a PITA; took me a while on my taco, the key to no leaks is to leave the union bolts a little bit loose and then start your rig (with a good drip pan and a rag over the FF and line AND with eye pro on...) and quickly get underneath with the 19mm and FF wrench and slowly tighten until the leaking stops; it doesn't take much, there's a narrow range of torque that will seal up completely, at least that's how it was on both my rigs. I checked periodically for the next few days and it worked perfect, no leaks.

they are a PITA

 

Yeah I noticed a certain torque will seal the leak. However I was having issue getting it to thread after destroying the new filter, so I just cut up a trash bag, wrapped the input tube in it then tied it off with some wire. Also, once the tank got below half tank, the pressure dropped significantly which helped. But I had a funnel and 5 gallon gas can collecting what fuel it could over night. Not fun.

Spark plugs next...

 

i had the same problem, just not as bad, the first and second time i changed mine. that certain torque is a welcome discovery once you have thrown your tools across the shop.

 

It is easy to forget to remove the gas tank CAP before loosening the fuel line. The tank is designed to be pressurized with fuel vapors, and on a warm day there is enough pressure to push all of the fuel out of the tank.

Of course, if you did have the fuel cap off, then this does not explain what happened.

 

Wow, man. Now that's getting pissed....lol! I don't blame you one bit. Fortunately, the fuel filter doesn't need to be replaced often. If ever you felt frisky enough, there are ways to relocate the infernal thing.

BTW, I don't care if godzilla punched a hole in your fuel system. As hot as it is and after running the vehicle with a full tank of gas, you're going to have a lot of pressure in the system. Though I've never tried this, it seems to me if you applied vacuum (suck on it and clamp it with something.......whatever) to the fuel pressure regulator to cause it to open fully, it would allow the vapors, fuel, and pressure to relieve/return to the tank. As well, cock open the little circular flap in the filler opening.

 

you can also pull the fuel pump fuse, start the vehicle and let run till it dies. that will get rid of the pressure.

 

Oh yeah.....there's that, also.

Edit: However, there's not a fuel pump fuse. There's a fuel pump relay. Unless you mean the EFI fuse?

 

riptide i know we have the same truck but its on the frame. i just didnt think about that cross member there that its right above. Man yalls are a PITA mine i just put it back on the lines and tightened it up good and tight the first time. Thankfully there was no problems at all.

 

I could be wrong, but I don't think that will help. (You may be thinking back to carbuerator days.) The truck will lean out and stall well before all the pressure is out of the line.

More importantly, the problem of fuel continuously leaking during a filter change is probably due to the vapor pressure in the tank, not the residual pressure from the pump. As fuel is pushed out of the tank, more fuel evaporates, maintaining the vapor pressure in the tank. Its only a function of temperature, and will keep pushing until all the fuel evaporates.

Or, just take off the cap, and the pressure IN the tank is gone.

 

Probably not. The fuel pressure regulator holds the fuel rail a certain pressure (about 55psi) above the pressure in the intake manifold. If you pulled a hard vacuum (0 psia) on the vacuum line, it couldn't reduce the fuel line pressure to less than about 55psi.

But the problem isn't the residual pressure in the line, its the vapor pressure of gasoline sitting in the tank. Even if you failed the pressure regulator altogether ("open it fully"), it's still a closed system. Pressure in the tank can't get out ... unless you take off the filler cap.

 

This thread is timely. I picked up a filter yesterday, crawled under there...that is the stupidest placement I have ever seen for a filter. I have no idea how to hit the output nut, none of my wrenches will hit the flats and leave room to turn it simultaneously. The input one is almost as bad, and unfortunately ridiculously tight. I cannot get it to turn and I already started rounding the corners on it by accident. I hit it with some penetrating oil and will go back and try again...

are there any tricks? Are both nuts normal thread direction? Going to read the writeup mentioned above now.