scope103

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-218962/

Even "more" timely. (Both nuts are "normal" rt-hand direction. Be sure you are using a 14mm flare nut wrench.)

thook

I really don't think it works like that, scope. There's a check valve in the fuel pump that prevents fuel from being able to run back into the tank thereby keeping maximum pressure in the fuel line and rail against the regulator for the next start up. Once the regulator has vacuum, fuel (and, any vapors) can return to the tank. That's why I suggested what I did. IOW's with a check valve, there's no way pressure in the tank can push fuel through the pump. The pump has to run for the valve to even open. If that were the case, there would not be enough pressure in the system for the vehicle to even run properly. Pressure is maintained between the pump and the regulator. The pump producing so much while the regulator, according to manifold pressure, is able to regulate it. You still need to relieve pressure in the tank, though.

riptide

Oh yeah, that's the first thing I did. Couldn't locate a fuel pump fuse, however.

I like this idea. I'll have to give it a shot next time.

Consider yourself lucky! I know next time around I'll just take off the crossmember. Not so much a big deal if you've got pneumatic tools.

Thanks for the input, guys.

thook

Well, it is just an idea. I'm not 100% positive on how well it'll work.

4RUNR FREAK

very helpful thread i am going to do my filter this week, it does look easier to just pull the cross member

riptide

I used a pair of vice grips. My input and output nuts are also torn to hell. I just did a combination of clamping them on and off. If you hold one input / output end, you can torque the other. Once the nut broke free, it spun off pretty easily. Not TOO rusty, but could use some wd-40 or pb blaster before getting in there. But yes, both nuts are normal thread direction...

I would highly suggest taking off the cross mount to make your life a world easier... even if you don't have air tools. You would, however, need a breaker bar to take off the 4 bolts on each side mounted to the frame... then the 4 securing the center to the transmission are super loose and can do that by hand easily. The transmission will drop a few inches, but don't be alarmed, it won't actually fall off! Just when you put it back on, you should have a rubber block bolted to the bottom of the tranny you can put a jack under, jack it back up (Unless you can bench 300+ pounds), then secure the 4 bolts on either side of the frame.

I tried going the other route without taking it off, ended up bending the output side of the filter very badly because I was trying to fit wrenches and vice grips in there to tighten it. So when it was all said and done it leaked gas everywhere. Actually, I'm not sure if I bent it when I put it on, or when I was trying to take it off. Either way... those fuel filters are pretty fragile so even if you try muscling yourself around in there you could potentially dent / bend the thing. Trust me, much easier with the cross mount off. And try to have very little gas in the tank... atleast less than half so the pressure is much less, and don't forget to take off the fuel cap.

EDIT: Another thing, the bracket that secures the fuel filter to the truck, just loosen that from the fuel filter and push it way forward as far as it will go while still on the line. It gives you more room to work with. So when you have the new one on, you can just slide it back over the fuel filter.

cale

ROFL. Dumbest post ever. I became a member just to say that.

thook

Fixed it for ya!