Removing tranny from 86' 22RE 4runner
10-05-2006, 05:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing tranny from 86' 22RE 4runner
I need some tips or a guide as to how to remove the transmission from my 4runner so I can replace the shortblock and clutch. I've never done this before on my 4runner so I'd like to know what to expect, etc. Thanks YotaTech 
10-05-2006, 06:13 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
get some good latex gloves like the doctor wears. Makes cleaning your hands easier.
Get a decent floor jack and a set of 4 jack stands. Jack that sucker up as high as you can get it and put it on the tallest stands you can find. I am talking like 24-30 inches if you can find them that big fully extended. Get a tranny adapter for the floor jack.
If you are doing this, you will need all of these again someday when you go to do brakes or wheel bearing work. So it's not like you will only use it for one job.
Get a good torque wrench. Click type or bar type it doesn't matter.
A good 36" 1/2" drive extention bar and a 17mm 1/2" drive flex socket. Works great for those two top bolts on the tranny.
Take a couple of 1" tie-down straps. You can support the rear of the transfer with it while you are pulling out the cross-member. The second one is so that you can support the rear of the engine with it while you pull the tranny/transfer.
Refill your gear boxes with Synthetic gear oil.
DON'T BUY CHEAP WRENCHES. it will save you headaches later when you get a stubborn bolt.
Find a pilot bearing puller You will save yourself some serious headache. It will make a nightmare job a joy in a matter of about 2 minutes.
Buy more beer.
Get a decent floor jack and a set of 4 jack stands. Jack that sucker up as high as you can get it and put it on the tallest stands you can find. I am talking like 24-30 inches if you can find them that big fully extended. Get a tranny adapter for the floor jack.
If you are doing this, you will need all of these again someday when you go to do brakes or wheel bearing work. So it's not like you will only use it for one job.
Get a good torque wrench. Click type or bar type it doesn't matter.
A good 36" 1/2" drive extention bar and a 17mm 1/2" drive flex socket. Works great for those two top bolts on the tranny.
Take a couple of 1" tie-down straps. You can support the rear of the transfer with it while you are pulling out the cross-member. The second one is so that you can support the rear of the engine with it while you pull the tranny/transfer.
Refill your gear boxes with Synthetic gear oil.
DON'T BUY CHEAP WRENCHES. it will save you headaches later when you get a stubborn bolt.
Find a pilot bearing puller You will save yourself some serious headache. It will make a nightmare job a joy in a matter of about 2 minutes.
Buy more beer.
Last edited by farmerj; 10-05-2006 at 06:22 PM.
10-05-2006, 06:25 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That about covers it... be sure to have a chilton or haynes available... the tranny is almost light enough you can muscle it out.. done it before.. but it takes a buddy or two to muscle it in.. and a case of beer...
10-06-2006, 07:00 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've read that the auto tranny is significantly heavier than the manual. Can anyone confirm this? I'm not as worried about putting my 5-spd in, partially because I can put tranny and t-case in seperatley, but I'm a little worried about the weight of pulling my combined auto tranny + t-case (hydrolicly linked).
10-06-2006, 07:14 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Having done the younger and stupid....
Now having an arm that won't function correctly after injuring it to many times the same way.....WHILE WRENCHING....
Why not just take good advice and not lift something heavy like that if there is an easier way?
Floorjack
JackstandsX2
Tranny adapter
Other than the $52 for the tranny adapter, everything else would be multi-purpose.
What would you medical bills be for a slipped tranny that mashed your finger or a back knocked out of kink?
Now having an arm that won't function correctly after injuring it to many times the same way.....WHILE WRENCHING....
Why not just take good advice and not lift something heavy like that if there is an easier way?
Floorjack
JackstandsX2
Tranny adapter
Other than the $52 for the tranny adapter, everything else would be multi-purpose.
What would you medical bills be for a slipped tranny that mashed your finger or a back knocked out of kink?
10-07-2006, 06:57 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why are you removing the tranny, if you're replacing the engine? Just pull the engine out. After you get the radiator out, there's plenty of room to slide the engine forward to get it off the front of the tranny. Stick a small bottle jack under the front end of the tranny to hold it up while the engine it out, then leave it where it is.
Trending Topics
10-07-2006, 08:40 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have an engine hoist and its a 5 speed you can stick it through the passenger door and lift it through the shifter hole.
I just listed for another guy on pulling the engine. If you are pulling the engine no need to remove the transmission unless you want to. I outlined what to do in this post.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96499
I just listed for another guy on pulling the engine. If you are pulling the engine no need to remove the transmission unless you want to. I outlined what to do in this post.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96499
10-07-2006, 09:40 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-07-2006, 09:59 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oops!
Try this one
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/removing-22re-96589/
Try this one
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/removing-22re-96589/
You taking the transmission as well? Truck stock or SAS
Not pulling the trans and stock here is what you need to do because you can't lift straight up.
Pull the access plate out of the passengerside fender for better access.
Pull the front plate.
Pull the cross member that the front diff bolts to.
LOOSEN THE CRANK BOLT NOW IF YOU WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR OFF. Unless you have a good impact you will have trouble getting that loose once its out.
Loosen the rear mounts of the front diff so that it hangs down so as to give you oil pan clearance so you can move the motor forward off the transmission.
A/C hung off the fender
Pull radiator and put a piece of ply in to protect the A/C condenser in case the motor swings.
Pull the fan off.
Pull passenger side kick panel if you haven't already done so and pull the harness back through the fire wall. Its a LOT easier to mess with the plenum and harness on the engine stand.
Unplug the Alternator and associated wiring.
Two heater hoses by fire wall on driverside
With that access panel off in the ender you will see where its easiest to pull the fuel lines loose.
Battery cables
Unplug the transmission electrical if harness still on motor.
Pull liens off canister if still attached.
Exhaust at the junction the manifold and down pipe meet.
You already have the throttle cable off since the plenum is off.
If the sway is off hang an ratchet strap between the frame rails to support the bell housing. If the Sway is still in it will support it.
Remove the bolts around the bell housing.
Put a jack under the bell housing.
The trick is you need to lift it a couple inches and you need to keep the transmission in line with the engine. As long as they are in line it will slide right off. If they are not in line it will be a fight. Remember that when you reinstall.
Let the air out of the tires. Most hoists cant lift high enough to clear the coresuport.
If the transmission is coming out as well and a 5 speed pull it first:
Take the the bezel and shifter boots off. Take the shifters out. Stick your engine hoist through the passenger side door. Use a Tree saver and wrap it around the transmission at the shifter location (not the case at transmission). Thats the balance point with the factory cross member still attached. Need to level enough room to move the whole assembly back about 6 inches to clear the clutch.
Remove sway bar and bell housing bolts
pull slave cylinder
unplug the harness
The trick is to be able to support the transmission and case without the hoist hitting the windshield. You have to have enough slack to lower it. If you have a moving dolly slide it up under the mess once you wiggle the transmission off the motor. Lower it and roll it out on the dolly.
If you remove the transmission first you probably won't need to drop the diff to get the motor out.
Not pulling the trans and stock here is what you need to do because you can't lift straight up.
Pull the access plate out of the passengerside fender for better access.
Pull the front plate.
Pull the cross member that the front diff bolts to.
LOOSEN THE CRANK BOLT NOW IF YOU WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR OFF. Unless you have a good impact you will have trouble getting that loose once its out.
Loosen the rear mounts of the front diff so that it hangs down so as to give you oil pan clearance so you can move the motor forward off the transmission.
A/C hung off the fender
Pull radiator and put a piece of ply in to protect the A/C condenser in case the motor swings.
Pull the fan off.
Pull passenger side kick panel if you haven't already done so and pull the harness back through the fire wall. Its a LOT easier to mess with the plenum and harness on the engine stand.
Unplug the Alternator and associated wiring.
Two heater hoses by fire wall on driverside
With that access panel off in the ender you will see where its easiest to pull the fuel lines loose.
Battery cables
Unplug the transmission electrical if harness still on motor.
Pull liens off canister if still attached.
Exhaust at the junction the manifold and down pipe meet.
You already have the throttle cable off since the plenum is off.
If the sway is off hang an ratchet strap between the frame rails to support the bell housing. If the Sway is still in it will support it.
Remove the bolts around the bell housing.
Put a jack under the bell housing.
The trick is you need to lift it a couple inches and you need to keep the transmission in line with the engine. As long as they are in line it will slide right off. If they are not in line it will be a fight. Remember that when you reinstall.
Let the air out of the tires. Most hoists cant lift high enough to clear the coresuport.
If the transmission is coming out as well and a 5 speed pull it first:
Take the the bezel and shifter boots off. Take the shifters out. Stick your engine hoist through the passenger side door. Use a Tree saver and wrap it around the transmission at the shifter location (not the case at transmission). Thats the balance point with the factory cross member still attached. Need to level enough room to move the whole assembly back about 6 inches to clear the clutch.
Remove sway bar and bell housing bolts
pull slave cylinder
unplug the harness
The trick is to be able to support the transmission and case without the hoist hitting the windshield. You have to have enough slack to lower it. If you have a moving dolly slide it up under the mess once you wiggle the transmission off the motor. Lower it and roll it out on the dolly.
If you remove the transmission first you probably won't need to drop the diff to get the motor out.
10-07-2006, 10:01 AM
#11
I've read that the auto tranny is significantly heavier than the manual. Can anyone confirm this? I'm not as worried about putting my 5-spd in, partially because I can put tranny and t-case in seperatley, but I'm a little worried about the weight of pulling my combined auto tranny + t-case (hydrolicly linked).
When I installed my new 5spd in my 86, there were 3 of us and a floor jack, just to get it in to be safe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MMA_Alex
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
25
04-18-2017 05:07 AM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-06-2015 01:20 PM
