Removing Flywheel
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Removing Flywheel
I am swapping out the engine in my 88 4Runner manual from a 95 4Runner auto and I am trying to change the flywheels. The problem I am running into is that I cannot remove the bolts on the flywheel. Any suggestion would be great!
#2
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The bolts that hold the flywheel on to the crank?
They can be on there good. Get some PB blaster and let it soak, you do not want to break those off. If you want new ones, GO TO THE DEALER, dont go to a hardware store for them. The dealer only wants like 1.80$ for each.
They can be on there good. Get some PB blaster and let it soak, you do not want to break those off. If you want new ones, GO TO THE DEALER, dont go to a hardware store for them. The dealer only wants like 1.80$ for each.
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Assuming your engine is out of the truck .... I used the LH (or rear) engine hanger to hold the flywheel in place. It's easy to bolt it to the block so that the hook part of the hanger engages with the flywheel teeth and holds the flywheel in place. PB Blaster and a long-handled socket wrench with a 6-point socket.
#4
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I've found an impact to work the best, otherwise, just use a point a 6-point socket on a breaker bar, and tap the handle with a hammer in the direction to losten it. The cranks going to turn, sure, but the quick sharp "jar's" to the handle should break them loose
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Assuming your engine is out of the truck .... I used the LH (or rear) engine hanger to hold the flywheel in place. It's easy to bolt it to the block so that the hook part of the hanger engages with the flywheel teeth and holds the flywheel in place. PB Blaster and a long-handled socket wrench with a 6-point socket.
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If my memory serves correct, I think I used one of the starter mounting holes. Mounted the hook on the transmission side (back) of the block with the hook facing the rear so that it could swivel around on the bolt and catch the flywheel teeth. Then tighten it in place.
I embarrassed to admit it, but I had forgotten to loosen the crank pulley bolt on the front of the engine before pulling it out of the truck ... and this goofy little engine hanger hook in the flywheel trick enabled me to get the pulley bolt out as well.
Good luck!
Last edited by Karlton; 10-21-2009 at 05:52 AM. Reason: Addition of minor detail
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12 point is okay if that's what you have to work with. An appropriately sized 6 point typically holds better and is less likely to round-off the corners of the bolt. Especially if you are using an impact wrench, or breaker bar.
#9
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my bolts look like this..
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