rebuilding engine... help me choose performance parts
#1
rebuilding engine... help me choose performance parts
I am getting my 22re rebuilt and in the process I need to choose a cam, headers and other things that I may not be aware of.
I was thinking of getting a port/polish as well the injectors cleaned to add some more power (or whatever they do... it was suggested to me a problem area for 22re's).
I was told the thorley header, with a 2.5" exhaust with a magnaflow muffler or something along those lines would be good.
Am I supposed to match my cam to anything else?
After I get a cam do I need to tell the mechanic to tune the fuel/air mixture or anything like that?
I also heard it may be good for me to replace my valves with "high performance" ones. Does that make sense? If so, a little guidance would be awesome.
What would you guys do if you were getting a rebuild and wanted to get the thing running in tip top performance?
thanks guys, all I know about engines is how to push the gas.
I was thinking of getting a port/polish as well the injectors cleaned to add some more power (or whatever they do... it was suggested to me a problem area for 22re's).
I was told the thorley header, with a 2.5" exhaust with a magnaflow muffler or something along those lines would be good.
Am I supposed to match my cam to anything else?
After I get a cam do I need to tell the mechanic to tune the fuel/air mixture or anything like that?
I also heard it may be good for me to replace my valves with "high performance" ones. Does that make sense? If so, a little guidance would be awesome.
What would you guys do if you were getting a rebuild and wanted to get the thing running in tip top performance?
thanks guys, all I know about engines is how to push the gas.
#6
if you want power swap a 7mge or 7mgte (turbo)
I-6 low torque great power DOHC
stock is 235 hp
my swap has cost me about $3000 or so...
But I am looking at 325 Hp to the rear wheels
But it is your truck and skill level so it is your up to you
i expect 20 ish mpg city and better on freeway
I-6 low torque great power DOHC
stock is 235 hp
my swap has cost me about $3000 or so...
But I am looking at 325 Hp to the rear wheels
But it is your truck and skill level so it is your up to you
i expect 20 ish mpg city and better on freeway
#7
I have mine bored .030 and I used a stage II 272 cam,turbo valves ( bigger than stock),Cone air filter,thorley header,2 1/4" exhaust with a 40 series flowmaster and the power is way more than it was before.It is faster now with 33's and stock gears than it was with stock engine and tires.It is almost as fast as my K5,except on the hills,stock gears are still getting me.If somebody slows me down then it still slow getting back up to speed(revs too high for 2nd but not enough rpm's for 3rd) but it still climbs @60-65 mph if nobody is in front of me.
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#8
Beast,
Thats about $4500 canadian at the least and a lot of extra time added to the project. I would love to do that, but its too much at this point.
Jedi,
I'll look into that cam, and see what turns up. Thanks
Thats about $4500 canadian at the least and a lot of extra time added to the project. I would love to do that, but its too much at this point.
Jedi,
I'll look into that cam, and see what turns up. Thanks
Originally Posted by Beast
if you want power swap a 7mge or 7mgte (turbo)
I-6 low torque great power DOHC
stock is 235 hp
my swap has cost me about $3000 or so...
But I am looking at 325 Hp to the rear wheels
But it is your truck and skill level so it is your up to you
i expect 20 ish mpg city and better on freeway
I-6 low torque great power DOHC
stock is 235 hp
my swap has cost me about $3000 or so...
But I am looking at 325 Hp to the rear wheels
But it is your truck and skill level so it is your up to you
i expect 20 ish mpg city and better on freeway
#10
Dude heres the deal, call on engnbldr.com, they are the leaders in customer service, prices and research for these engines.
If you want most fun for the dollar with reliability (my criteria for rebuilds) go with an over bore and compression bump to 9.5:1 on the pistons, turn the crank and get a highflow oil pump, that will start you with a basically new bottom end. be sure to get a new water pump and have the radiator flushed and flow checked while its out. Then alittle head work to make sure it's straight, new valves (can go bigger but not totally necessary; same with port work), a 263 or 268 cam from engnbldr depending on driving style, find a MAF from a 82 supra they are plug and play and get rid of the first big restriction in a series of a poorly flowing air intake path. The upper intake off a 89+ 22re is straight instead of angled down and that is a nice little bonus if you can find one for free or cheap. Be sure to do a good 3 inch K&N open air filter off your MAF, dont go cheap on this as it wont be worth it in the long run. then just a header (thorley is probably best but I havent had any problems with my pacesetter for half the price and the exact same design), and a 2.25 exhaust (2.5 will maximise hp at the cost of low end torque and when you only have a low end with these rigs, thats what you need). A good straight through muffler and hi flow cat (or no cat if local laws permit such a thing) but if you run no cat put in a glass pack muffler as it will be loud as heck with just one muffler. all that should kick butt as soon as your engine is broken in and loosened up.
Refurbishing the rockers and injectors is probably a good call if the stock motor had some hard long miles on it.
A $75 dyno tune is probably the best 'mod' you can do after its rebuilt and broken in. They will be able to set your a/f and timing and pull you into a safe zone with the maximum power. otherwise keep reading and researching and asking questions and you will have a killer little set up.
oh yeah an electric fan and a 180 or 190 degree thermostat too!
If you want most fun for the dollar with reliability (my criteria for rebuilds) go with an over bore and compression bump to 9.5:1 on the pistons, turn the crank and get a highflow oil pump, that will start you with a basically new bottom end. be sure to get a new water pump and have the radiator flushed and flow checked while its out. Then alittle head work to make sure it's straight, new valves (can go bigger but not totally necessary; same with port work), a 263 or 268 cam from engnbldr depending on driving style, find a MAF from a 82 supra they are plug and play and get rid of the first big restriction in a series of a poorly flowing air intake path. The upper intake off a 89+ 22re is straight instead of angled down and that is a nice little bonus if you can find one for free or cheap. Be sure to do a good 3 inch K&N open air filter off your MAF, dont go cheap on this as it wont be worth it in the long run. then just a header (thorley is probably best but I havent had any problems with my pacesetter for half the price and the exact same design), and a 2.25 exhaust (2.5 will maximise hp at the cost of low end torque and when you only have a low end with these rigs, thats what you need). A good straight through muffler and hi flow cat (or no cat if local laws permit such a thing) but if you run no cat put in a glass pack muffler as it will be loud as heck with just one muffler. all that should kick butt as soon as your engine is broken in and loosened up.
Refurbishing the rockers and injectors is probably a good call if the stock motor had some hard long miles on it.
A $75 dyno tune is probably the best 'mod' you can do after its rebuilt and broken in. They will be able to set your a/f and timing and pull you into a safe zone with the maximum power. otherwise keep reading and researching and asking questions and you will have a killer little set up.
oh yeah an electric fan and a 180 or 190 degree thermostat too!
Last edited by sefus; Dec 14, 2005 at 01:11 PM.
#11
After talking with a toyota mechanic and fellow offroader, I am going to do a meticulous rebuild job. Nice, detailed work is going to be done and I really trust the guy.
I'm getting a thorley header and having it plained in a machine shop to ensure a good seal. Going to bring in my injectors for a... whatever its called to make them spray properly.
Going to get a 2" exhaust with a dynaflow muffler.
Also going to get a port/polish done in the shop.
Will also need to buy a new radiator w/hoses and timing chain set.
Basically its going to be a brand new engine once im done with it. My bottom end is in great condition and everything should be working great with optimcal performance.
Now I need to save up the cash and ge it done as soon as possible.
I'm getting a thorley header and having it plained in a machine shop to ensure a good seal. Going to bring in my injectors for a... whatever its called to make them spray properly.
Going to get a 2" exhaust with a dynaflow muffler.
Also going to get a port/polish done in the shop.
Will also need to buy a new radiator w/hoses and timing chain set.
Basically its going to be a brand new engine once im done with it. My bottom end is in great condition and everything should be working great with optimcal performance.
Now I need to save up the cash and ge it done as soon as possible.
#12
Here's a post from engnbldr from 4x4wire.com about increasing the power of the 22re for relatively cheap:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
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. thats not that bad

