rezrunner92

I have searched a lot about my rear window problems in my 92 runner. I have decided to just bypass everything and wire the motor straight to the switch. I also want to move it to the left dash at this time along with the window lock out switch to solve the spilled drink problems. For all the thought Toyota puts into design you would think they would have known better about the switch placement.

The question is can I still use the stock switch or do I need to get an aftermarket up down toggle. I would like to preserve the clean look. If I need an aftermarket switch any suggestions for a factory fit model? Thamks in advance.

Elton

only need 1 thread

rezrunner92

Thanks for the input don't know how that happened how do I delete it?

Voila

Elton

i think the mods already deleted one so leave this one.......if it happens again just go to your first post edit it and click delete and it will be gone

Firefightertaco

i wired mine strait to the motor, u need a double pole double throw switch (dpdt) i got mine from radio shack for like 5 bucks, its not the best looking but it works, is has 6 posts on it 2 should be your 12v power, 2 should be ground, and then 2 from the motor, u should be able to figure it out the position they need be in but pm me if u need some help.

jon_7248

Just dont spill!

Seriously, spilling a drink can cause your switch to fail? I have an '87 4runner and no cup holders, switch still works! However while putting my console back in I have noticed it has a small layer of stickyness on it so maybe it didnt get spilled on it to bad. I know it has a few times though.

Tofer

yes the switch should fit. you'll need to build a wiring harness to reach to the dash tho.

rezrunner92

Yes. Mechanics call it the Coke effect or Mt Dew effect, depending on which one they like. The drink gets all down in the switch and dries leaving everything coated in residue. This interferes with the contacts and operation of the switch.

CyMoN

I would take out the switch and soak it in some warm water then let it dry out for a few days and see if it still works.
as long as it is dry it should not short.
I had a g/f that dropped her cell in a sink full of water i took out the battery and hung the cell from a string in front of a dehumidifier dried it out in 2 days and the phone works fine when it was wet it did not work at all.

OSIRIS

did you make sure your rear window wiper was fully resting up against the seat of the bracket. The window will not work unless the wiper is all the way up and out of the way. There is a safety switch there that won't let the window go down if the wiper is not sitting up in that spot.

rezrunner92

Pushing up on the wiper helped some at first but not often anymore. The key in the tailgate hasn't worked for a while but the interior switch had been working ok then quit.

I took off the cover and tried to identify the limit switch in back and it must be made to the motor. If not i haven't found it yet. If I unplug the wiper motor it won't work either.

jon_7248

I think if you unplug the wiper, it wont work cause it may think the top is off as well. But I cant remember, and know there is a 'top-off' switch on one of the top bolts. Since the key and button are both intermitent, wouldnt it be something more of a relay or door close acknowledge switch? Just thinking


***EDIT****DOH! saw yours is a 90something and probably dont have a fiberglass top. Sorry, still thinking though.

dogman

Did you pull out the switch and try and jump it? I tok a test lite and found the combo fot up and down and just eliminated the other wires. Once you find the combo you can tell if the switch is good or bad. It wires up like an electric winch by grounding one side or the other. You still need the window lock switch intact or it wont work. If you want to move the switches i would put the lock switch in the unlock mode and just tuck it under the console cover, does anyone ever use it? The orange extension cords with the ground are great for wireing switches and cheap. Good luck the test lite will be your best friend here. If you do need an after market switch dont use the radio shack brand they stick out to far and are cheap, go to an electric supply and get some metal ones, i use two next to the wheel for my winch they fit nice and can take a little bumping into.

jesse

rezrunner92

You know before, I hadn't even had the switch out yet. Tonight I cleaned up the inside so I thought why not and took up the console. One of the wires was broken at the switch. It was broken right at the mount so it was still sort of stuck under there, just not always able to make a connection. I guess that is why it would work sometimes if I pressed really hard. i thought that was just the dirty contacts.

When I took it out and cleaned it I tried to solder it back but I didn't have any luck getting it to stick. New part cost $70 retail $50 wholesale. If I can't get it to stick tomorrow I will get my wife to stop on her way home and pick up the new one for me. I think I will go ahead and move it to the dash now too. Guess I'll get wire tomorrow and have a weekend project. HooRay!!!

rezrunner92

I dropped mine in the toilet at my old job while bending over to pull up my pants after a urine test. It was in my shirt pocket. Everyone was getting tested and there was dye in the toilet. My co workers were standing around waiting to go in and the nurse was standing there outside theopen door to make sure no cheating. You could turn your back though. I was quite the laughingstock. Looking back it is funny to me too now. The phone worked though.

AH64ID

Inside the tail gate there are two switches on the latches. If you disconnect these the tailgate thinks is closed all the time. I had to do this one day when one of them failed and I was 25 miles up a DUSTY road.

The OEM switch is super expensive, 75 bucks IIRC, I would put an aftermarket one or junkyard one. The switch is so expencive since it is what reverses the polarity for the motor to go either way.