Matt16

I'm only getting a white blank page when I open that link. What do you think the purpose of the power limiting switch is? Think I could/ should I bypass it?

marshm4ll0w

you could bypass it probally, although it may be just incase the motor gets to much power. like a fuse kinda idea, its probally like an inline reisistor id guess, or similar idea. personally id just leave it alone and keep it wired in, providing your window actually works. its not like it has to go up speedy fast as long as it goes all the way up and down id say id be happy, mine doesnt work at all. i played aorund with the box and it started to half work which was good news for me. that link works for me though, im not sure why it doesnt work for you. have you tried to zoom in? like at the top theres a toolbar and you can click the magnifying glass a few times and it all comes in clear.

marshm4ll0w

oh and you said you got it form vancouver? i live in mission, and was wondering what the store was called id like to call and maybe go and pick some up, everywhere iv looked so far has no idea what im looking for. im gonna try this other guy he does auto electrical i was told he would be good to get in touch with.

so i went down to radio shack which is now the source/ circuit city and asked for a relay and the lady was like whats a relay. and i thought to myself no one has any idea what things are anymore.

Matt16

http://www.mainelectronics.com/

marshm4ll0w

right on thanks. im taking out the 2 realys right now. was earlier. its actually harder than i thought it would be. iv taking the solder off of the 5 pins on one
but i cant seem to get it off the board still. is there a trick to getting it off? maybe i neeed to take more solder off.

marshm4ll0w

nevermind i got them now. thanks for the thread.

Matt16

A solder sucker works well, its basically a spring loaded syringe that you "fire" when the solder is still hot.

JohnRaven

QUESTION:

Here's the situation...

My rear window went down about an inch all by itself yesterday.

I took the back panel off to jump the motor to close the window.

I just took the relay box out, however... Before I start replacing relays, how do I KNOW they are bad??? Is there something else that COULD be causing the problem?

JohnRaven

Bueller, bueller?

JohnRaven

Anyone?

Matt16

Replace all relays

JohnRaven

Are they all the same??? Can they all be replaced by the same relay? IE this one?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-2080-ND

Matt16

They are all the same relay.

JohnRaven

Thank you!!!

Jerbou71

Thanks Matt16 so much for you making this thread and the time that you put into this thread. I just got done doing it on My 92 4Runner and it worked great.
Just for notes on the 92 the box is blue not black and the relays are in a little differnt layout on the board then the one in your pictures. But they are the same relays and worked perfectly. Thanks again Matt16.

Western Canuk

great thread!

I can't believe nobody suggested desolder braid vs a sucker. Way easier to use in my opinion.

Jerbou71

That does look like it would work alot better. Because I kept having to clean up all the splatter and was worryed that I was going to miss a piece and it would short some thing out. Thanks for the tip.

Gratch

Greetings. I've obtained great info on these forums, most recently this window relay fix. I finally have a small contribution to make, in the way of an additional part number. The two posted were difficult to find near my Sacramento, CA area, but the local electronic store was very helpful.
From previous posts: Panasonic Relay JS1-12V-F, Digi-Key 255-2080-ND, Sanyou SRD-S=112D. Today I used NTE part # R46-5012-12. SPDT 12A-12VDC They happen to be 12 amp, but it was incidental. $3.50 each

I tested wiper and window, but won't be able to test defroster for a while.

Thanks to all

Matt16

I should have noted that we actually ended up using a sucker instead, i guess I just forgot to mention.

kanstandem

I had some trouble finding the Sanyou relays locally (Denver / Boulder) but found several more that have the right specs (12 V, 10 or 12 A, 300-400 ohm coil resistance, pin arrangement SPDT or 1 form C). I'm listing them below in case it speeds anyone's repair:
Philmore model 86-112
NHG model NT73-2C-S12
Zettler model AZ9421A-1CT-12DE (slight overkill at 20 Amps but it meets the minimum specs)
Potter and Brumfeld model T70 L5 D 164-12