Why not replace them all. They're all probably in rough shape. Sometimes you can tell by which on is clicking when activated, but that's hit and miss as they're all close together.

 

I did replace them all, i had two extra relay boxes and there is four relays in each box, so i bought eight relays and replaced them all in both boxes, i just have to wait until next weekend to try them out.

 

Hi, I'm new to the forum and have read alot about similar issues. My rear window goes down slowly by switch and key, but does not go up by key. It does go up by switch (again slowly), but needs to be tried several times with engine on.

Is this a motor issue or a relay issue? Thanks.

 

I gave a pretty clear method of testing in my writeup, go to page 1 and read up on the diagnostic procedure.

 

Thanks!
This post saved me alot of time

 

Glad its still helping people.

 

My 88, I thought it was diamond in the ruff with the rear window working, but nope, it went out. Went to go roll it down and does nothing. It is too dark to check it right now, but what should I check and in what order?

Fuse
Relay?
Motor?
Switch?

NM. Found 4crawlers write up

 

I'd just like to add that I have a '93 4Runner and was expecting to see the same circuit board. Mine was a little different. I went a head and changed all 4 relays then re-installed the c.board. It worked great.

Later the same day I went to lower the window and the wiper passes one time then the window lowers about half an inch...and this repeated itself until the window was all the way down. So I had to go back in and change a relay back to the facotry one and now it goes up SLOWLY just as it once did before. I didn't feel like messing with it anymore (it was late and started raining on me). I can live with it. I'm in Mexico so I paid a little electronics shop to solder in the new ones and later change one of the new ones back to the original. Right now I don't have my own tools to do it myself.

The relay that is still an Omron is where the new one went bad and I had to re-install the factory one.

Just a note the JS1-12V are what I came across here in Mexico for about $1.30 USD and they are 10A.

 

Forgot to post this picture.

 

So after less than a year since this repair, the motors struggling again.

I tested the motor straight off an older battery, and it was a little stronger, but not exceptional. The battery hasn't been charged in a couple months so that my be part of the reason why the motor was slower this time in testing.

I then tested the voltage at the motor, it was about 12.5V. The voltage at the battery is roughly 12.7. Both tests with engine off. So why the difference between a used battery connected straight to the motor and the starting battery connected through the relays, if the voltage drop appears to be only 0.2V??

 

Bump, I need an answer. I don't want to buy a new motor just to find out thats isn't the problem.


Are they're any fuseable links in the system?

 

HEy Matt - the only advice I can give you is that I think the problem is not with VOLTAGE rather its AMPERAGE. AS the motor gets older its current draw increases - I would think that the factory circuit can only supply a limited amount of current. As the window nears the top of the run it is asking the most work form the motro which in turn is looking for more current which teh factory circuit can not supply. Hence it works fine jumped straight from the battery. My reasoning is based on my expirence with my fuel pump- it would not run through the factory circuits but run fine when jumped straight from the battery. I replaced the pump and the new one runs fine through the factory circuit.

I am by no means an electrical guru ( FAR friom it)

Have you tried removing the motor and having a look inside - mine was rusty and obviously not in the best shape. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it - so far no problems...

Hope this helps.

 

Hmm. Interesting, I didn't know it could draw more amperage as it wore down.

As a side note, what actually wears out in an electric motor???

My runners are kind of rusty, but well greased now. I didn't think you could buy new runners though. The gears for the scissor mechanism look fine.

 

When I took my motor apart I found that there had deffenitely been water or moisture inside the motor - the bearing/bushings inside were pitted and rusty. I cleaned and sanded smooth all the bearing/bushing surfaces and lube it up with dialectric grease. I also cleaned and shined up any electrical point/contacts. Not saying this will be the answer but worth a shot.
ASfor motors requiring more current draw- you can imagine if all the bearings are rough and it is hard to turn the "thingy'" (STATOR??) around in the feild it will requre more current . Very technical description I know!

Might just need a new motor. It would be nice to measure the current draw at the motor and compare it to a new/ working motor.

 

Lubed up the runners, this time with silicone spray (as opposed to grease) and WOW, it moves. Doesn't even slow down near the top.

Maybe I'll pull out the motor sometime and have a look at the bushings. Anyone know if they're rebuildible (the motors that is)?

 

Nice! I always use silcone spray on the window tracks. When I used white lithuim grease it just seemed like a magnet for crap. Glad that worked out for ya.

 

I got some weird looks from the girl at one of the shops I visited when I asked about silicone lube. Apparently, there are multiple types of silicone lube.

This is what you want:


This isn't:

 

Thanks for the writeup! Main Electronics had the same relay in stock ( I live in Vancouver ) and I had my first ever desolder/solder job under my belt, along with a gate window that responds! woot

 

I think that very well may be the same store I bought mine from. I'm in N Van. Glad it worked.

 

well i dont know if youve looked at a wiring diagram for the back window. I found out that on it there is a power window limit switch. i looked at a wiring diagram to find out the other realys on the circuit board for but nothing yet, but look at the circuit, according to diagram in the right side bottom part if you look up a bit youll see a power window limit switch. that may be what causes your window to go up so fast when you go direct with battery. heres a link at the bottom you may have to copy paste it. and youll have to zoom in to make it more clearer.



http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common...&COURTESYTAG=&