M3PREZ

It works fine using the console switch. Will this fix correct that, or is it another issue? Thanks...

kanstandem

My problem started out with just the key-switch going bad but the console switch followed about 2 months later. I didn't do too much testing of the circuit board to figure out which relay went to which switch, just replaced all 4 relays since it is cheap and easy once you get the technique down for one.

My guess (and I stress guess) is that this is is related to the relay. It is certainly possible that some other wire went bad but it doesn't seem like the wiring has been a problem with this system, just the relays.

M3PREZ

I had someone point out to me that unsoldering the existing components was almost impossible. They recommended I just cut the relay off so I'd only have the individualy pins to unsolder and remove. Will the sucker/braid remove enough of the solder to remove the whole component, or is cutting it away what I need to do? Electronics Shop in HS is just a distant memory!! LOL!!

kanstandem

I have only minimal soldering experience myself and even I wouldn't characterize the replacement process as difficult. There isn't much room between relay and board to even get at the pins to cut them off and even then you would have the unenviable task of making some interesting connections between free floating relays and the circuit board with broken pins and fitting the whole mess back into the rear electronics housing.

I found the solder sucker useless (cheap one from radio shack) as the tip was too large to pull vacuum on the small beads that get generated. A good one should be useful, though.

The solder wick was pretty efficient. I just sandwiched the wick between solder and iron so the pressure from the iron spread the wick a little to get solder in initially and start the wicking process. You have to keep cutting the wick off when it fills with used solder but one roll is more than enough for this job. And you may have to push the wick into the hole near the pin just to get the last little bits out. It probably took 90 seconds per pin (5 pins per relay) for removal and even less to solder the new ones in and I used the cheapest iron from Radio Shack.

Just be careful when soldering / unsoldering not to melt nearby components or accidentally cause shorts by getting solder where you don't intend. This problem is pretty easy to avoid as solder has an affinity for the pin and plating on the circuit board where the pin inserts.

forward

Howdy!

This is my first post and you all saved me $800! I took out my rear window "module" and bought 4 JS1-12V-F relays (on sale 2 for $1.44!). So with this forum and all you smart people, plus some solder, some wick and the relays, I think the whole fix will cost me about 10 bucks.

Whoot! Thanks!

JohnVH

Just found this thread, my window quit yesterday, wont roll down now, but it was slow going up and needed help before that. Next weekends project I guess.

Thanks!

stanz

iTrader: (1)

What type of solder should I purchase to do this? I went to Radio Shack and they had 6 different types. They guy behind the counter knew more about Justin Bieber than circuitry.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

What type of solder should I purchase to do this? I went to Radio Shack and they had 6 different types.

Zambezi

Hi Guys. I`m in Australia and my relay has died on my 1991 Toyota 4runner. being right hand rive the relay is ( In my case on the pasenger side - drivers side in the US ) Is there any where in the US where one can buy NEW OLD STOCK from an aftermarket shop. Sometimes one can pick up New Old Stock from time to time. In Australia, Toyota want over AUS$780 for a new one. I doubt that there are any electrical suppliers in this country who would be able to just supply just the two relays. Thanks in anticipation Cheers Peter

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I was able to order relays for my 86 4Runner from http://avnet.com/. I bet they ship worldwide.

Zambezi

Hi Stanz. Many thanks for you reply. I`ll get onto avnet after the New Year as we are going away for four weeks, leaving on Thursday and back home on or about the 20th January. What ever the outcome, Ill post a reply

Zambezi

Hi Matt16. Just read though your post about the relays etc. I`m based in Australia and after nearly having a heart attack at the price of a new relay AUS$875 I decide to bite the bullet and give it a go myself. I have ordered four relays SRD-S-112D from Tesco`s . Fortunately they post to Australia and hope to have them sometime next week. My two quesstions are 1) Does the cover come off easily to get to the relays, or do you have to cut it off ? 2) When you are soldering the relays in, what do you solder and where do you attach the solder to. I dont want to bugger up the circuit board, as they are like hens teeth in this country, and neither do I want to fork out $875 for a new relay !!! There are not many 4runners left over here, so are a rare commodity - if you can find one. Since owning my 4runner from 1991 its only covered 78,125 MILES( 125,000 Km) and has just had a total two pak enamel paint job done last year. As Australias harsh conditions are not suited to Japanese paint work, I decided to do the entire vehicle, as the paint had reached the point of no return. Its the original metallic grey.In about a months time, a brand new Lexus V8 engine is going to go in and get rid of the underpowered and uneconomical thirsty V6. As this is my second post on the forum, I hope when I have mastered how to upload photos, I`ll post a photo of the 4runner in its new livery. Your advice on soldering what to where etc wil be most helpful. The rear wiper and demister work 100% but will replace them while I have the whole lot out.
Thanks very much.

Zambezi

Hi from Downunder in OZ. I ordered three Sanyou relays off E-Bay and got sent six. ! So got the relay box out and sent it up my local Auto Electrician. Refitted the box etc and still the rear window wouldnt go down. When I looked at the Ammeter, eveytime I pushed the console switch the voltage would drop drastically. So, ordered a NEW Electric motor again off EBay for $50. Fitted the motor last weekend and Voila ! Works bettter then new. Goes down and back up a lot quicker then previously. Probem all solved. Now I need an interior door panel for the right front door in grey with the diagonal stripes. Anyone know where I can get one of those. Toyota Australia and Japan, no longer make them. Cant seem to upload the actual photo on this page . Any ideas folks . Thanks in advance.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Doesnt apply to the relays but this will work great on your window tracks on either electrical or mechanical windows. Apply it to the rubber/felt tracks once or twice a year. It will help save both your motor and arm.

Zambezi

Hi Terrys87. yes I saw this article on the forum and ironically had a can of Silicone Lubricant which I have sprayed into the channels several times before the motor died. Reason the motor died was because I left the key in the tail gate over night, and wondered why the next morning the battery was dead. I guess the key being in the up position helped burn out the motor. Wasnt too difficult to replace. Just my bulk trying to get into a confined area even with the seats all folded down flat, But at least the relays and motor have been done. Now for the 1UZ V8 !!!

Zambezi

Hi Guys. After getting the SANYOU relays for the 4Runner, I took the truck up to the Auto Electricians, and upon further investigatins, it was found that the problem lay in the rear window motor and not the relays. Now I have box of SANYOU relays sitting in thee cupboard. I ordered a brand new motor off E-Bay , which had never been used , was still in the original packing and Toyota box. The seller wanted US$50 for it . With the current exchange rate being in my favour the motor cost me $46 plus freight of $16. The motor arrived on Tuesday and on Thursday I removed the original factory fitted motor, installed the new one and conected eyerything up. Turned the key and pressed the switch and down went the window. Pressed the up, and up she went at twice the speed of the original motor, which I guess was old and tired, yet still turned over when not connected to the mechanism. So now have a rear window that works and no more climbing over back seats to get to the cargo area. To all of you who helped me on this project A BIG THANK YOU to all of you. Sadly in Australia there are not that many 4runner`s on the road, and from what I have seen , many are in terrible condition. New parts are horrendously expensive from Toyota Australia, yet a brand new motor off E-Bay in its original packing was $50 !!!! Many other parts for my 4runner have now been bought off E-Bay and Discount Auto Parts.com They gave me great service when the air-conditioner compressor died and bought the genuine compressorfrom them for $266 , against Toyota Australia`s $860 ! Pays to shop around !!!!!!!!!!!!! Especially when we are so far away from every other country.

a51young

This is a great write up! My window worked fine from the switches up front with the engine on, but would only go up from the key switch in the back. I replaced all the relays hoping that would do the trick but it didn't. Turns out that my wire, green/yellow wire had a break somewhere long the way. Since it is all taped up, I didn't feel like looking through all of it so I just ran a second wire along the original, taping them together and crimping the line at the relay and the switch. Works perfectly now!!

So it might not just be the relay causing an issue, but the actual wire from being old could have broke somewhere causing an open circuit.

RatGDH

Matt16,

Many thanks for this post, I did mine today with the relays that were suggested from DigiKey and it works perfect now. Mine has the 4 relays in a square, I replaced them all and everything works great now.

Greg

Milesram

hey I know this is super old , but I have one new relay and the relay I have to change is the down relay . Would I be able to have the circuitboard out while plugged in, then with the new relay match pins on the back of the circuitboard to the other relays To see which one it fixes?

mholme

Your wording is confusing me- Are you trying to isolate the DOWN relay since you know that's the one you need to replace? If that's the case, you might be able to feel it click when it activates and doesn't do anything. You'll need a second person to do this. What year is your truck? Have you seen this: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml I think it shows where the various relays are located on the board for their specific function.