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oh just wondering how much was the new parts ?
i havent changed the gear oil yet but will do it soon as i fix the leck
my trans a 5 speed r150f so whats the right gear oil for the trans and the transfer case? 90 wight?
ok thanks grego just one question that been on my mind how long to the 3vze v6 last ? i mean wear down till the rings and ˟˟˟˟ start to get bad
asking becuase mine has 404 347 km on it and hasnt been touched yet
so i need it to last till the 3.4 build is ready to drop in
damn man i need pic to put up
If you need to replace the fluid that was lost during the leak, the below is from the online pickup manual (Page MT-24). I lined out the "GL 5" since most agree that GL 4 is the way to go. Some popular synthetic brands that are used are Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple.
If I did something wrong please correct me and I'll put it in the thread so nobody else screws up!
Good writeup.
For the transmission, GL-4 is the way to go for sure. In the t-case, you can pretty much run anything you want as it is not synchro-mesh. GL-4 or GL-5 oil will work just as well. Some folks go with GL-4 in case you get an oil leak between the trans. and t-case. But you can run the same GL-5 oil you run in the axles, so use whatever you have on hand. I do find synthetic oil in the t-case lets it run cooler and with dual cases, you can feel the reduction in heat coming into the cab with synthetic oil.
This thread is gold for this issue! I had started my own thread because I wasn't finding any info, but after searching for a while longer and finding this thread, just about all of my questions have been answered. Sweeeet
One question, do any of you know if those part numbers work for a 3vze R 150F transmission?
Last edited by 92shawman; Nov 16, 2012 at 02:30 PM.
bringing back an old thread, but did anyone put FIPG on the outside of the seal. The portion that seats in the housing of the transfer case? Or is that only neccessary when you have a metal type seal, not the rubber type?
Anyway, no I never have. And probably never will. Since I've installed many of both types without, and never had one leak for lack of, RTV. So why mess with success?
I used to work on heavy equipment and everytime we put a new metal lip seal in something we put FIPG around the outside first. Just checking based off my previous experience. Must be a Caterpillar thing only.
RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner's Transfer Case Output Seal
Thanks to Grego for the illustrated procedure above.
Do you guys think Permatex Ultra-grey would be a good substitute for Toyota sealant here?
Originally Posted by joeynational
... did anyone put FIPG on the outside of the seal. The portion that seats in the housing of the transfer case? Or is that only necessary when you have a metal type seal, not the rubber type?
Originally Posted by MudHippy
...Anyway, no I never have. ...
I agree with no sealant on rubber to metal interface.
The Seal P/N 9031138140 is available from Toyota Parts Deal:
Hay everyone,
I have a 1987 4runner MT that I was attempting to change the rear output seal on. When I got the drive shaft off, the nut wasn't steaked it looked like either someone reused the nut and didn't steak it or the nut backed off(may be loctite?). Then i tried to take the nut off.. Nothing...
I tred to get a chisel under the part that was steaked but I think it just made it worse.
I then tried to get the nut off but nothing worked. I used an impact wrench(small cordless) and tried a 24" breaker bar with some heat(small butane torch) and used the floor jack with the braker bar. The nut took some abuse from the impact and my hitting it with the chisel.
What should I do?? The braker bar made the transfer case turn just a bit when I was in 4L. I think I'm going to go get a chain and hook it up to the flange and see i can get it off that way.
should I use more heat??
Bigger impact??
Apr 6, 2012 | 09:50 AM
