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Right rear brake drum locked up on way home. Let off throttle and ya she stuck! Drove truck a mile to get home, brake smoking but WHAT CAUSED THIS? Never experienced something like this. I will be removing brake drum this afternoon,,,GAWD those are always a pain trying to turn that brake adjuster..
Right rear brake drum locked up on way home. Let off throttle and ya she stuck! Drove truck a mile to get home, brake smoking but WHAT CAUSED THIS? Never experienced something like this. I will be removing brake drum this afternoon,,,GAWD those are always a pain trying to turn that brake adjuster..
Rough deal, since the brake was smoking your are now assuredly looking at new drums since the old one will be warped beyond repair/resurfacing. Do everything in pairs not just one side!
The cause could be several things but the most common cause on toy trucks is the parking brake bell crank sticking (if equipped it's a lever on the backing plate that the cable is attached to).
Other causes include but are not limited to:
brake parts failing like return springs or brake shoe linings coming apart and jamming between the drum and shoes.
rear brake hose internal failure trapping fluid pressure (not likely if only one brake locked up)
or, a couple times in the past I have seen a misadjusted parking brake cable cause the adjuster to keep cranking down every time the brakes were pressed.
To get your drum off you will need to disengage the auto adjuster lever inside, I use a screwdriver that I bent just for this and go through the adjuster slot on the backing plate, feel my way over the adjuster and push on the adjuster lever (you'll feel it is spring loaded when you push it toward the wheel mounting flange. Then I use a brake adjuster spoon or another flat head screwdriver to back off the adjuster. If you can get the opposite wheel and brake drum off it will allow you to play with the adjuster and see what you need to do on the problem side. You will notice that when you tighten the adjuster it will ratchet on that lever making a clicking sound, but it will not turn the other way because of the adjuster lever, you need to get it to turn the "other" way or you are in for a hell of a fight to get the drum off.
That adjuster has always been my nemesis. Spent 2 hours,,,doubt it budged a notch, and i have the proper brake tools. Maybe I try the other side as suggested. That way if I have to disassemble I have idiot proof plan to work from. Good thing I don't have to work till Monday
Got it this am, used other end of brake tool.
Drum is okay, not scored or cracked. Shoe not so good, pad fell off while gently sliding drum
off
If it got as hot as you say you WILL have a braking vibration if you don't replace it.
The brake lining probably separated and got jammed between the other shoe and the drum causing the brake to lock up.
that means the other side may be ready to do the same, you should do a full rear brake job with 2 new drums (always do them in pairs to avoid a pull to one side under braking) and lube up your e-brake bell cranks while you are at it.
You could measure the rear drums and try to decide whether to keep them, but RockAuto has replacement drums for less than $30, so why not? (They even have kits including the shoes, drums, cylinders, hardware ...)
You could measure the rear drums and try to decide whether to keep them, but RockAuto has replacement drums for less than $30, so why not? (They even have kits including the shoes, drums, cylinders, hardware ...)
After they have overheated they will vibrate and if you have them refaced there will be even less metal and they will overheat easier the next time. Resurfacing usually costs $20 or more each, so why not go new?
New drums $60, new shoes $50? ( I'm guessing) return spring kit $20, total about $130ish. Piece of mind... priceless. I haven't looked up the prices myself, but you could even replace the slave cylinders and flexible brake hose and probably still be under $200. If done right you won't have to worry about your rear brakes for many years as long as the axle seals don't start leaking.
Not replacing drums unless they chatter. Also replacing crossmember that supports fuel tank/exhaust. It’s rotted in Center. Must be trapping moisture New piece, not quite same diameter but it’s what I had Rotted section,,
So while i was doing this work i had bent a 30 year old brake line to do some welding. The line was weak there and started leaking so this weekend replaced about 5' of brake line (up and over fuel tank) , 2 ' of the line was very crusty, the remainder solid and like new. Had to unbolt fuel tank to access lines and then make my own lines to install....the buck is TONY(similar to fluid film but way cheaper) Sprayed lots of that in areas tough to access when fuel tank is anchored. I had also added new rear shocks while doing brakes the other week(Gabriels). One shock was broken, grinder accidentally punctured the other shock
May 14, 2020 | 09:36 AM
