Rear Diff Leak
#1
Rear Diff Leak
I have a 1989 Toyota Pickup 4x4 SR5 V6 5spd w/185k miles and has only seen 1000 miles over the last 10 years, it's a recent purchase and I have no knowledge of prior history but it looks very well maintained and cared for, just some leaks, no rust or damage, not even digs.
This particular leak leak is coming from the rear diff. It looks to me like it's coming from the diff gasket and not the pinion seal but it's hard to be sure so I'm going to just replace both.
My question is, while I've got the diff out, what else should I be doing down there and what should I be looking for?
I'm guessing I don't want to see broken or worn teeth.
What about adding a rear locker? My intended use is for light-medium trails, nothing intense.
Is it worth it and if so, which one?
I want to run bigger tires, do I need to change the gearing?
Currently 225s
Thanks for the help!
This particular leak leak is coming from the rear diff. It looks to me like it's coming from the diff gasket and not the pinion seal but it's hard to be sure so I'm going to just replace both.
My question is, while I've got the diff out, what else should I be doing down there and what should I be looking for?
I'm guessing I don't want to see broken or worn teeth.
What about adding a rear locker? My intended use is for light-medium trails, nothing intense.
Is it worth it and if so, which one?
I want to run bigger tires, do I need to change the gearing?
Currently 225s
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by Truckn; Dec 7, 2020 at 10:44 PM.
#2
With my 22re I'm running 265/75/r16 (31.5×9) with a lock-rite (mechanical locker) and I couldn't be happier! If you are looking for more traction and a smooth ride maybe look for a limited slip unit. And do the outer axle seals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#4
I have a spartan locker in my 4runner, great traction and super affordable, but the the ratcheting and banging of it unlocking and locking it would give some people a heart attack. I wouldn't want it in a daily driver, but when you plunge headfirst into a mudhole you're glad to have it. 31s are golden for stock trucks of this gen, I have 4.56s from the factory and run a 34 with no issues, it's slow, and it always will be.
#5
You didn't mention transmission. or what size tire you want to run. Really need both of these to pick best gear ratio. And you'll need to regear the front to match.
If pinion seal is not leaking I'd leave it be unless regearing. Dif seal to axle is easy enough. Inspect outer bearings, I'm a little sensitive about those bearings and probably replace them too often but I like to be done with axle for years at a time. Don't be a bear snob. I've had national bearing last 8 years and koyo bearing grenade in less than 3yrs. get quality from a good supplier. replace all seals.
As for lockers that's always a funny topic as ppl are very opinionated. I ran a locrite in the rear for years. Daily drove truck and drove it cross country. I ran an ARB for years. Now running a grizzly in rear. Have had front locked with an Aussie for better than a decade. So far my favorite is the Grizzly. Locrite was loud, clicking in tight turns. and violently (in comparison to Grizzly) when unloading then locking up. The ARB sounds great but has more maintenance and I pulled an airline off at dif doing a frozen water crossing, that was the last straw well I also grenade gears in that dif on another trip so out it went. Really not pleasant re-attaching airline in sub-freezing temp in water, snow, and ice. The grizzly still unloads and loads but its rather gentle in comparison.
If you drive in snow a rear locker can be a challenge until you get smart and lock front hubs in and drive in 4wd.
I personally don't think LSD has any business offroad unless your budget minded and get a steal of a deal.
If pinion seal is not leaking I'd leave it be unless regearing. Dif seal to axle is easy enough. Inspect outer bearings, I'm a little sensitive about those bearings and probably replace them too often but I like to be done with axle for years at a time. Don't be a bear snob. I've had national bearing last 8 years and koyo bearing grenade in less than 3yrs. get quality from a good supplier. replace all seals.
As for lockers that's always a funny topic as ppl are very opinionated. I ran a locrite in the rear for years. Daily drove truck and drove it cross country. I ran an ARB for years. Now running a grizzly in rear. Have had front locked with an Aussie for better than a decade. So far my favorite is the Grizzly. Locrite was loud, clicking in tight turns. and violently (in comparison to Grizzly) when unloading then locking up. The ARB sounds great but has more maintenance and I pulled an airline off at dif doing a frozen water crossing, that was the last straw well I also grenade gears in that dif on another trip so out it went. Really not pleasant re-attaching airline in sub-freezing temp in water, snow, and ice. The grizzly still unloads and loads but its rather gentle in comparison.
If you drive in snow a rear locker can be a challenge until you get smart and lock front hubs in and drive in 4wd.
I personally don't think LSD has any business offroad unless your budget minded and get a steal of a deal.
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#9
I run 31x10.5 and run at stock height. The previous owner had spacer blocks at the rear and cranked the torsion bars at the front. It was a pretty miserable ride that way. Pulling the spacers and dropping the torsion back down made a world of difference on the pavement.
#10
Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!
One last question. Will I run into issues with only a rear locker?
I mean... If one of the front wheels doesn't have traction, will all the power go to that wheel?
One last question. Will I run into issues with only a rear locker?
I mean... If one of the front wheels doesn't have traction, will all the power go to that wheel?
#11
with open front and locked rear. Both rear will turn and only front with least amount of traction.
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HiluxSurfGuy
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Apr 22, 2020 07:44 AM








