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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Rear Diff Leak

Old Dec 5, 2020 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
Truckn's Avatar
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Rear Diff Leak

I have a 1989 Toyota Pickup 4x4 SR5 V6 5spd w/185k miles and has only seen 1000 miles over the last 10 years, it's a recent purchase and I have no knowledge of prior history but it looks very well maintained and cared for, just some leaks, no rust or damage, not even digs.

This particular leak leak is coming from the rear diff. It looks to me like it's coming from the diff gasket and not the pinion seal but it's hard to be sure so I'm going to just replace both.

My question is, while I've got the diff out, what else should I be doing down there and what should I be looking for?

I'm guessing I don't want to see broken or worn teeth.

What about adding a rear locker? My intended use is for light-medium trails, nothing intense.
Is it worth it and if so, which one?

I want to run bigger tires, do I need to change the gearing?
Currently 225s

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by Truckn; Dec 7, 2020 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 07:48 AM
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With my 22re I'm running 265/75/r16 (31.5×9) with a lock-rite (mechanical locker) and I couldn't be happier! If you are looking for more traction and a smooth ride maybe look for a limited slip unit. And do the outer axle seals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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I think Peart130 meant inner axle seals, but yes, definitely replace. You don't want diff fluid taking out your wheel bearings after you're done with the diff gasket.
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 05:37 PM
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I have a spartan locker in my 4runner, great traction and super affordable, but the the ratcheting and banging of it unlocking and locking it would give some people a heart attack. I wouldn't want it in a daily driver, but when you plunge headfirst into a mudhole you're glad to have it. 31s are golden for stock trucks of this gen, I have 4.56s from the factory and run a 34 with no issues, it's slow, and it always will be.
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 06:06 PM
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You didn't mention transmission. or what size tire you want to run. Really need both of these to pick best gear ratio. And you'll need to regear the front to match.

If pinion seal is not leaking I'd leave it be unless regearing. Dif seal to axle is easy enough. Inspect outer bearings, I'm a little sensitive about those bearings and probably replace them too often but I like to be done with axle for years at a time. Don't be a bear snob. I've had national bearing last 8 years and koyo bearing grenade in less than 3yrs. get quality from a good supplier. replace all seals.

As for lockers that's always a funny topic as ppl are very opinionated. I ran a locrite in the rear for years. Daily drove truck and drove it cross country. I ran an ARB for years. Now running a grizzly in rear. Have had front locked with an Aussie for better than a decade. So far my favorite is the Grizzly. Locrite was loud, clicking in tight turns. and violently (in comparison to Grizzly) when unloading then locking up. The ARB sounds great but has more maintenance and I pulled an airline off at dif doing a frozen water crossing, that was the last straw well I also grenade gears in that dif on another trip so out it went. Really not pleasant re-attaching airline in sub-freezing temp in water, snow, and ice. The grizzly still unloads and loads but its rather gentle in comparison.

If you drive in snow a rear locker can be a challenge until you get smart and lock front hubs in and drive in 4wd.

I personally don't think LSD has any business offroad unless your budget minded and get a steal of a deal.
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Old Dec 7, 2020 | 11:45 PM
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Thank you, I looked at the Yukon Grizzly and it looks like the right fit for me. Maybe a Yukon Zip.

It's a 5spd Manual V6
Not sure about tires, maybe 31 or 33.
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 03:20 AM
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My answer will always be yes to lockers, bigger tires, and lower gears
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 09:51 AM
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For your type of driving I would say no to the locker and you can easily run 31's or 32's with no issue. For 33's you would probably want to lift it a bit. Good luck.
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 11:54 AM
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I run 31x10.5 and run at stock height. The previous owner had spacer blocks at the rear and cranked the torsion bars at the front. It was a pretty miserable ride that way. Pulling the spacers and dropping the torsion back down made a world of difference on the pavement.
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!

One last question. Will I run into issues with only a rear locker?
I mean... If one of the front wheels doesn't have traction, will all the power go to that wheel?
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Truckn
Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!

One last question. Will I run into issues with only a rear locker?
I mean... If one of the front wheels doesn't have traction, will all the power go to that wheel?
having a locker in rear on a daily is no big deal if you can learn it’s quirks you can avoid most of them and honestly the quirks aren’t that bad and totally worth the traction.

with open front and locked rear. Both rear will turn and only front with least amount of traction.
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