Radiator filler neck
#1
Radiator filler neck
Noticed this yesterday during an oil change. No idea how long it's been cracked. No leak. Pressure tested it and was good up to 14psi which is just over what the oem cap is rated for(88kpa). Anyone else ever have this? I think it's an oem radiator made of brass or copper or whatever. Should I JB weld this or what? Have a desert trip planned this weekend and not enough time to find a radiator and replace it now!
Notice the hairline crack at the base of filler neck? Popped the cap and couldn't feel any cracks inside the feeler cap or see any either.
Notice the hairline crack at the base of filler neck? Popped the cap and couldn't feel any cracks inside the feeler cap or see any either.
#2
Registered User
That's common. Don't jb weld it. Take it to a radiator shop and have them unsolder it,clean and tin the fill neck and the tank,then have them solder it back on. Being that it's a downflow radiator and there's plenty of room,they can do it in the truck. It's better to take the rad out of the truck so they can work on it on the bench and get a better pressure test on it. That radiator looks pretty crusty and I'm willing to bet it has other issues that you didn't see with your in truck pressure test. But if you're in a hurry at least have a good radiator shop re solder that fill neck.
#3
That's common. Don't jb weld it. Take it to a radiator shop and have them unsolder it,clean and tin the fill neck and the tank,then have them solder it back on. Being that it's a downflow radiator and there's plenty of room,they can do it in the truck. It's better to take the rad out of the truck so they can work on it on the bench and get a better pressure test on it. That radiator looks pretty crusty and I'm willing to bet it has other issues that you didn't see with your in truck pressure test. But if you're in a hurry at least have a good radiator shop re solder that fill neck.
Inside of rad looks real clean.
#5
I see some white stuff around the area and possibly some green coolant?
Have you ever tested the coolant for electrolysis? Probably not a likely cause of the radiator failing since it's copper.
Have you ever tested the coolant for electrolysis? Probably not a likely cause of the radiator failing since it's copper.
Last edited by Odin; 07-09-2015 at 09:42 PM.
#7
No white crud on or around the cap. Coolant is cause I took off the cap off and dripped some around.
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#8
If it was me I'd cancel the trip and do as T/F suggested. It's just not worth the chance to me.
On a trip or in the desert is not where you want to try your luck unless you have extra time and cash.
Plus with how common blown head gaskets are on this generation, no thanks.
On a trip or in the desert is not where you want to try your luck unless you have extra time and cash.
Plus with how common blown head gaskets are on this generation, no thanks.
Last edited by Odin; 07-10-2015 at 05:37 AM.
#9
22r's and re's are know for head gasket issues? Hmm I've never heard that other than its a good idea to just replace them every 100k. Or at least I think I've read that.
Last edited by horunner1x; 07-10-2015 at 05:53 AM.
#10
Aluminum heads + unwanted heat can cause casting irregularities in the form of high and low spots (warpage). These irregularities reduce the heads clamping surface area and compromises the head gaskets sealing ability.
It's much more common to happen on aluminum heads Vs. steel but some steel heads were thinly constructed and have problems as well.
It's much more common to happen on aluminum heads Vs. steel but some steel heads were thinly constructed and have problems as well.
Last edited by Odin; 07-10-2015 at 06:43 AM.
#11
Oh that's what you meant. Haha thought you were saying the engines are prone to head problems haha. Yea probably gonna take it to a shop or do it myself or something this weekend.
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