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#1
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Questions:
I had to pull the intake air chamber to get to a leaking valve cover , passenger side I am trying to get it back together and the reed valve is giving me nothing but problems. This was all put back on the motor while it was out and easy to get to. The egr valve isn't even hooked up to any vacuum lines as when I did the motor would die, when it wasn't hooked up it ran great, so I don't see any reason to reinstall it and am going to just block the opening in the air intake, any thought on doing this??? Now the reed valve just what does it do and why is it in there. Is it just a glorified pvc valve ?? I have headers and the openings would be very easy to block off. I hope to get some answers soon as I am working on it today and I don't want to do any thing dumb
#2
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Well I went ahead and pulled the EGR and the reed valve. blocked the lines, found out if you put 3 pennys in the fittings that were used by the EGR and Reed valve and put the nuts back on it works great. If it continues to run good I am going to leave it this way. The spark plugs on the passenger are in plane sight, sure easy to change.......
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grousehunter 61 (10-11-2018)
#4
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Certainly not saying that it won't run fair, but..
Taking parts off and plugging up the holes where they had been is not often the way to go with electronicly controlled fuel injection machines.
Neither the PAIR, nor the EGR rob the engine of significant power, and they play into the efficiency regime designed into the programming of the ECU.
Not only that, but the truck spews a little less nasty stuff when those systems work. Not too hard to make them right.
Taking parts off and plugging up the holes where they had been is not often the way to go with electronicly controlled fuel injection machines.
Neither the PAIR, nor the EGR rob the engine of significant power, and they play into the efficiency regime designed into the programming of the ECU.
Not only that, but the truck spews a little less nasty stuff when those systems work. Not too hard to make them right.
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grousehunter 61 (10-11-2018)
#5
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I'm going to guess you're working on a 3VZE, and the problem you're having is getting the 25mm (approx) hose back onto the PAIR. My advice: heat gun. (Actually, a hair dryer will work.) Warm up the hose with the heat gun enough to make the rubber more pliable, and this job is MUCH easier. Put your hand on the hose as you're heating it; if it's too hot for your hand, it's too hot for the rubber.
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grousehunter 61 (10-11-2018)
#6
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Thanks guys, normally I would agree but in this case, unless I run into trouble they are going to stay off. The reason they are off is the valve cover on the passenger side was leaking oil so bad the I was afraid it would catch fire. With those two things removed I can see the head and if the leak is going to recur. Changing the spark plugs is a dream. As I understand it the reed valve just puts fresh air back into the exhaust to lessen emissions, The EGR valve has never been hooked up, yes it was in the exhaust system and in the air chamber but was never hooked up to any vacuum lines, so it was serving no purpose.
You are right I never did say what I was working on sorry....its a 93 4runner with the 3.0 v6
So I am going to use it as is, if my gas mileage drops or any other problems arise then they may go back on and no I am not smarter the the engineers that designed the motor, but sometime they over engineer things trying to cover all bases. Now I understand the if you live in Calif you probably can't get away with this, but I live in the mountains of Idaho, hell we don't even have building permits or inspectors.
You are right I never did say what I was working on sorry....its a 93 4runner with the 3.0 v6
So I am going to use it as is, if my gas mileage drops or any other problems arise then they may go back on and no I am not smarter the the engineers that designed the motor, but sometime they over engineer things trying to cover all bases. Now I understand the if you live in Calif you probably can't get away with this, but I live in the mountains of Idaho, hell we don't even have building permits or inspectors.
#7
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I agree with millball; someone a lot smarter than (most of) the rest of us combined designed your vehicle with all the parts to work together. Don't start taking them off unless you're smarter than Toyota's engineers.
I'm going to guess you're working on a 3VZE, and the problem you're having is getting the 25mm (approx) hose back onto the PAIR. My advice: heat gun. (Actually, a hair dryer will work.) Warm up the hose with the heat gun enough to make the rubber more pliable, and this job is MUCH easier. Put your hand on the hose as you're heating it; if it's too hot for your hand, it's too hot for the rubber.
I'm going to guess you're working on a 3VZE, and the problem you're having is getting the 25mm (approx) hose back onto the PAIR. My advice: heat gun. (Actually, a hair dryer will work.) Warm up the hose with the heat gun enough to make the rubber more pliable, and this job is MUCH easier. Put your hand on the hose as you're heating it; if it's too hot for your hand, it's too hot for the rubber.
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#8
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I may reinstall the reed valve, I noticed a loss of power. I pulled a trailer and it just didn't have the power it had with the reed valve, not sure why, but it didn't.
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