Hey all, first time poster.

I have a 93 4Runner, 3VZE 4WD auto. Searched the forum for an answer but no luck.

Long story short, I pulled the heads thinking my rough idle/no power issues were due to a stuck/burnt valve in cyl. #5 (zero compression.) After getting them off I found that cyl. #6 has some pretty deep HORIZONTAL gouges on the cylinder wall (I think it ate a spark plug at some point?) so I'm going to tackle a rebuild. I'm going to try to take the engine/tranny out as a unit and replace tranny seals etc. while the block/heads are at a machine shop. I've done it this way on a few old BMW straight sixes, so know the basic issues I'll likely face.

Do I have to put the heads back on and use the factory lifting points, or are there decent places to thread a bolt into the block and go that route? I'm assuming I'm going to have to get a pretty crazy angle on the unit to get it out, and I don't like the fact that the front lifting hook faces forward, possibly allowing the chain to come off the hook. Plus I'd like to keep the front of this thing as short as possible to allow more travel on the hoist.

Also, has anyone had any luck getting the T-case off the tranny while it's all still in the car?

Any suggestions? Besides a motor swap?

Thanks all!

 

You can use the head bolt holes for lift points. I would track down some different bolts to use if you're planning on reusing yours, just in case something were to happen. You're trying to pull the engine and tranny as one unit?

 

Exactly. Spent today prepping and scratching my head getting the geometry straight. That transfer case is going to make this an interesting exercise...

 

Gotcha. That does sound like a bit of a conundrum. I've done one transmission removal and one engine removal but they were both M/T and I simply unbolted the bellhousing in both cases. That might be a good option for you too, but I'm sure the torque converter bolts are less than fun to get at. Unbolting the T-case wouldn't be the worst thing, but it'll probably make a mess. I can only speculate since I've never done it.

 

With the heads off the exhaust is removed? If so unbolting the block from the gearbox should be an easy task. I would vote for that approach and then drop the drivetrain out from below. A tool to mount to the transfer case mount and the floor jack will make this a one man operation.

 

Well, she came out after a lot of head scratching. With the heads removed the balance point of the motor/transmission assembly moves pretty far back, so I had to do some creative work with a load leveler to get the sucker over the hood opening. I couldn't use the head bolt holes for the same reason, so used a bellhousing bolt hole on the back end. If I were to do this again I'd probably put the heads back on and use the stock lifting points. Lesson learned!

 

At least you got it. Good luck with the rest of your project!