scyotapu

I pulled my 22re out today after finding it had a terrible knock. Sounded like it was comming from both top and bottom end. I drained the oil and there were no shavings in it, no other fluids, it was perfect. After pulling the motor i ripped the valve cover off and saw i had some timing chain guides floating around, and plastic shards all over the valve cover area. Could that plastic have posed any problems with the cylinders? And could those broken guides be the problem for the knock? The motor still ran, it wouldnt really get over 30MPH though. So far that is the only damage I have found. What do you guys think? And how do i change the timing chain guides. I cant find a Repair manual on the forums, so if any one knows where i can DL one that would be great. Thanks guys!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

look up timing chain replacement using the search function several good threads on it

whokrz

There is a link in my sig to factory service manuals.

LITLRED

You may have plastic particles blocking your oil pan pick-up. The friend I bought my block from had a knock in his 22re and when he dropped his pan his oil pick-up "looked like a chia pet". This was also caused by a broken chain guide. By that time he had burned a bearing. Good reason to have a oil pressure gauge.

scyotapu

so it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the bearings then huh. When i drained the oil i didnt see anything in it. Ill pull the pan later today. It only looks like part of 1 chain guide broke. The tabs holding the chain from comming off the long side of the guide. Hopefully you get that image im tryin to paint. Dont know of any other way to say it.

WHOKRZ, thanks for the link!

LITLRED

With my very limited experience, based on what you have said I would want to take a look at the bottom end. A darkened or discoloration of the crank journals could indicate oil starvation. Small shards of plastic from your guides can plug the oil passages. And without the chain guides your chain may have damaged the timing chain cover.

whokrz

It depends how far you want to go with it and what you find.
It could be that it broke the guide and just jumped a tooth causing the timing to be off.
On my girlfriends 22re the guide broke at 230k I had $1400 laying around so I rebuilt the block and bought a new head. This is rather over kill but it should be good for another 200k.
If you want to try and keep it cheap I would pull and clean the pan and oil pickup. Then install a new chain, tensioner water pump, and the metal guide (driver side i think) Then cross your fingers. If you still end up rebuilding you will normally do all this anyways so all you are really out is gaskets and time.
If you are comfortable with rebuilding engines I would disassemble and inspect the whole engine, then reassemble. If you don't know what you are doing or looking at then you can do more harm than good inspecting and reassembling. If you decide to inspect the bearings make sure you follow the fsm.

scyotapu

I dont have alot of engine internal experience. I spend most of my time with suspension, electrical, exhaust etc. Im willing to try anything though. The crank is still inline with the chain. both marks meet where they are supposed to so timing never skipped. The guides are still there...ish. the chain is tight and the guide is keeping the chain from flapping around. its just some pieces of it blew apart. Does it make sence that the noise came from out of no where, and it quiets down at midrange? I cleaned out the valve train today. got all the plastic out. Im going to try to rip the oilpan out this comming friday, idk how im going to do that since the motor is sitting on a tire. Dont have an engine stand haha.

My87toy

humm guess I will pull my oil pan I have a piece of one of my guides broke off to.

whokrz

Harbor freight sells engine stands pretty cheap.
I thought the chain may have jumped because you said "it wouldnt really get over 30MPH". Something else may have gone in the engine to cause this. Loss of compression or maybe a bad bearing. It could also be something in the efi that happened to go at the same time. The air flow meter being stuck open will also cause those symptoms because it will run extremely rich.
With the guide broken, oil passages clear and the timing correct the engine should preform fine. But the chain should start to chew on the timing cover. When the guide on my girlfriends 22re broke it mainly made noise at idle and right when you took your foot off the gas.
On a brighter note the 22re is a pretty simple engine to learn on.

scyotapu

there was a CEL on before i pulled it, if i plug the ECU back in and connect the battery do you think the code will still be there. If so then i could possibly figure out why it wasnt going over 30. compression was surprisingly good. im wondering if the plastic pieces that came off screwed up my valvtrain. IDK how to check valve lash, not even sure if that could be affected by the plastic parts.