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Pressing rear wheel bearings

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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:01 AM
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Pressing rear wheel bearings

Does anybody know the proper procedure for pressing off the rear wheel bearings? I got axle out, the snap ring removed. Does the collar just press on and that holds the bearing in? How do i press it off? I tried putting it in the press holding hub and pressing on the end of the shaft but the E-brake stud won't allow it to center therefor I can't press it off. Any suggestions?

Scott
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:21 AM
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I found the manual and it needs an SST. will any thing else work?
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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You can cut/weld an old housing to use to press off the bearing. I was between duty stations and had to find a shop to do it. Which was a pain as most machine had no idea.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:41 AM
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One option:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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Here:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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Wow, Roger we were totally on the same bandwidth....LOL!! I've been sitting on this thread, had to dress my baby girl!!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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Thanks for the help. I think i am going to weld something up. The "shadetree" style worries me a little.

scott
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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I just did this last month, and I did not have the sst available, and I beat the shafts so hard trying to get that retainer off that my hands went numb, The retainers did not budge.I called Toyota, there techs had already left for the day, then I called Randy's Ring and Pinion (10 min from dads garage), they quoted me $50 per axle to remove and install (I already had the parts), before I went over to the shop I called to see if they had the sst, fella on the phone said they didn't, but told me all they do is score the retainer with a angle grinder with out touching the axle shaft and then smack it with a chisel to break the retainer, I took my time cutting the retainers deep as I could, cutting the bearing cup, that was being replaced to begin with, and hit it with a hammer and chisel, and it broke after that it was easy to remove

Last edited by firemaniac; Nov 11, 2009 at 10:37 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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Hey look on the brightside Randy's ring and pinion will screw you on price. Ain't ever felt so raped, well besides the time.... Lets not go there.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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I had Randy's do the bearings in the 3rd member, Rebuild kit, new carrier and Labor came in at $525, R&P were still good and reused. I didn't have time to search, and they had less than 24 hour turnaround, I simply needed my rig back on the road. All I had to do was drop off the 3rd late one morning, and I could have picked it up that evening if I didn't have to go to work.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by firemaniac
I had Randy's do the bearings in the 3rd member, Rebuild kit, new carrier and Labor came in at $525, R&P were still good and reused. I didn't have time to search, and they had less than 24 hour turnaround, I simply needed my rig back on the road. All I had to do was drop off the 3rd late one morning, and I could have picked it up that evening if I didn't have to go to work.
You could've saved some change spreading your cheeks. Sorry man my beef is with randy's not you. Please ppl go to gearinstall.com see what is involved because Randy's screwed me on some stuff, hell I still can't sitdown.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
You could've saved some change spreading your cheeks. Sorry man my beef is with randy's not you. Please ppl go to gearinstall.com see what is involved because Randy's screwed me on some stuff, hell I still can't sitdown.
I didn't take it personally, no harm done.

Plans for the next time (gears, locker, or front diff) include buying the tools and dial indicators, and learning to do it myself.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by firemaniac
I didn't take it personally, no harm done.

Plans for the next time (gears, locker, or front diff) include buying the tools and dial indicators, and learning to do it myself.

Still can't mock you, I bought my front diff geared and locked from an SAS guy. Haven't decided if I'll sell the diff. After all finding a 4door 22re would be my dream. Especially if the engine was blown but 22re's don't do that. Dang 3.terds get all the breaks.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 12:43 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

i guess i have been changing these rear axle bearings wrong.

What I do is with the air hammer and flat chisel get between the bearing and the retainer pop off the retainer . at this point it is pretty straight forward to press the bearing out .

Last I was doing this to change out rusted backing plates

For me this is quick and fast

Most likely not for the faint of heart
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 08:52 AM
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That was my original intent, but I ended up ordering the parts to do the bearings as long as I had it apart. When I got the shafts out I happened to grab the pinion flange and noticed play and ended up doing every bearing and seal in the rear end.
You could do just the inner seals if you trust the condition of the bearings and outer seals, or as a stop-gap until you have the time/money to do a full job.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
It just so happens I've got a gear lube leak on my rear brake (passenger side). I was snooping around on the topic. Question: I noticed it's fairly easy to replace the INNER seal. Will that stop the leak, typically, or do you have to go through removing the bearing and replacing the OUTER seal???

gNARLS.
If the bearing is shot and the axle is wobbling around in the housing a new inner seal won't help anything. Check the bearing for play. Personally I've done the shade tree smack the hub on the ground method a couple times and used a pipe and an old bearing retainer to put the new bearings on and never had that much of a problem getting them off.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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i must be doing it all wrong then,. becuz all ive ever done to press out a wheel bearing is use the big 25ton hydraulic press at my diesel school and a just the right size collet that touched the bearing and not the retainer.


>>im confused..
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