I live in a high theft area. I've gotten tired of dealing with car thieves of all stripes (think stolen car, stolen catalytic converter, stolen parts, stolen belongings, stolen gas, etc) and had a 2 way car alarm installed. This is great EXCEPT...It is supposed to lock the power door locks in my 4Runner when the alarm is set and open the locks when you turn the alarm off. This isn't working because the locks aren't fully engaging and disengaging with the alarm fob. The alarm shop suggested I needed new lock motors or lock actuators. I'm not sure about that. Where would I find the power lock motors/actuators on this car? It's also worth mentioning that my master window control switch locks, but does not unlock the power locks. Does anyone have ideas on how to increase the 'strength' of the locking motor or mechanism? I can probably have the alarm company disconnect the keyless entry, but if I don't have to it's kind of nice.
Also does anyone have a source for a new master window control unit for 1st Gen 4runners? Switch Doctor discontinued them. Or can you rebuild the switch? I found one link that showed someone cleaning the copper contacts, but I'm not sure that's all mine needs.
I have this sort of switch:

 

There was a gentleman on Amazon that used to list rebuilt switches. The SwitchDoctor.
He still has a store there, but I didn't see 1st gen master switches listed. Maybe contact them to see if they can get, or rebuild yours.
I got one from him 3-4 years ago. Pretty decent work

 

Thanks! I know about Switch Doctor. They discontinued this particular window switch control unit. Maybe I'll send him a message and see if he can do one more by special request.
I'm thinking the 'weak' locking mechanism could be the door lock actuator motors. These are part numbers 85450-17010 (passenger side) and 85450-17020 (driver's side). Has anyone found a replacement for these that isn't $250-300?
I'm thinking there must be a work around for a generic lock motor.

 

Are you sure the actuators are weak? They’re pretty stout.How well do they lock/unlock from your master switch?
Once you pull the interior door panel off the door latch and actuator are easy to access. Might be worth pulling and taking the old grease off everything and regreasing.
I saw this switch for a FJ. I think it’s for late 80’s to early 90’s. Looks very similar. Has two connectors instead of one, but maybe you could unload that connector and plug them into the connector off your old one.
84810-90A02-03

 

No, I'm not sure the actuators are weak. That was the line I was fed by the alarm company when the lock/unlock alarm setting key fob doesn't fully engage or disengage the locks. The master control unit will lock, but not unlock the doors. Not a bad idea, getting the single switch and using the new components on the old master switch. Hmmm. I need to take off the door panels and get a look. Could probably use some fresh grease for sure!

 

That grease had the consistency of beeswax after being in there decades. Fresh grease won’t hurt. I used an old tooth brush and paint thinner to scrub it clean first.
Does your lock switch feel wonky or broken when you try and unlock? If the switch itself feels ok you might try and carefully disassemble the switch and clean all the contact points and put a little grease on the pivot points. It’s not a complicated switch.
The fact that both doors are behaving the same would make me ponder something different than the actuators. But once you get a good master that locks and unlocks your doors that’ll put any question about the actuators to rest.

 

Thanks! When I get some time I'll try the fresh grease solution! The switch doesn't feel wonky. The locks feel stiff manually, sometimes hard to open with key. Probably lubrication will help this situation a lot.

 

you can rule out the circuit if you put 12V and ground directly to the door lock actuator and see if it works properly.
if it does you have too much resistance in part of the circuit, if it doesn't you need new actuators.

 

These^^^ Toyota components are often bullet-proof. Just need maintenance after 35 or so years.

 

All of those components inside the door "should" be protected by a sheet of plastic held on by the stickiest tar-like adhesive you might imagine. You'd like to keep that shield, so rather than ripping the plastic out of the way consider using a heat gun (or hair dryer) to make the adhesive gooier. With the plastic pulled away, keep the hair on your arms out of the adhesive!

You should be able to push-pull the lock bars right at the actuator. Do that before taxing your motor with a direct battery connection.

As others have said, clean and grease will probably do the trick. But don't overlook the possibility that you bent a component (particularly with years of grease-that-is-now-beeswax).

Last, take a few pictures of what you see. Questions about the inside of the door come up pretty often around here.

 

Thanks for all the tips!
I'm pretty sure the plastic protective thing is long gone. I don't remember seeing it last time I pulled the door panel off, but if it is there the heat gun/hair dryer on the adhesive is a great idea.
Now all I need is decent weather and time.