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22re 5 speed, new tune with 8* advance, 31's w/4.10 gears, Odometer compensation of +1 mile for every 10 traveled. 50/50 mix of highway 65-70 mph & stop and go = 22.3 mpg.
Will be trying a full highway run next.
Wow that's pretty good! On pure highway, I tanked up a warm engine, drove 160km to a gas station and tanked up again. With my 90' 4Runner loaded with some furniture and a mattress and box spring ratchet strapped to my roof I got just about 20mpg. Stock tires and gearing.
Since then I've put in new injectors, reset TPS, cleaned intake/EGR, put timing back to 5* (it was at 12 previously for some reason lol), and fixed an oil leak to restore oil pressure. I'm also planning on putting in manual hubs and long tube headers with 2.25" inner diameter exhaust pipe going all the way to the tail pipe. Wonder what I will get then.
put timing back to 5* (it was at 12 previously for some reason lol)
When you reset the timing did you jump the diagnostic terminals to get the engine running in base timing? If you had the engine running at normal idle, it's actually supposed to show 12° advanced.
When you reset the timing did you jump the diagnostic terminals to get the engine running in base timing? If you had the engine running at normal idle, it's actually supposed to show 12° advanced.
Yup I jumped the terminals and made sure the cel was flashing. It actually runs much better now. Taking off in 1st the whole truck used the shake, as if the engine was lugging. Now I can take off smoothly.
Sounds like you're on point then. Glad you fixed it, the PO or some past mechanic must have not known about 22re base timing mode. I bet he thought it was strange as the idle went down and got less smooth during the adjustment...
22re 5 speed, new tune with 8* advance, 31's w/4.10 gears, Odometer compensation of +1 mile for every 10 traveled. 50/50 mix of highway 65-70 mph & stop and go = 22.3 mpg.
Will be trying a full highway run next.
Did an all highway run yesterday from Lincon, NH back to Melrose, MA. 62-75 mph all the way on 89 octane... Kind of disappointed - the gas mileage calculated out to 21 mpg. Only change between these two data points is the tire pressure is at 32psi now and was previosly 37psi.
also two bikes on the back but i dont think they'd add much drag.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 10-22-2017 at 04:37 AM.
The tire pressure drop could've done it, or the wind even. Since our trucks are shaped like Legos, it seems the only way to get better than usual gas mileage is to stay under 65 on the highway, airing way up, driving down a long mountain and/or having a strong tailwind.
On the plus side, having stuff strapped to the truck (bikes, kayaks, skiis) or open windows won't hurt mpg as much as it does on more aero-dynamic vehicles.
Did an all highway run yesterday from Lincon, NH back to Melrose, MA. 62-75 mph all the way on 89 octane... Kind of disappointed - the gas mileage calculated out to 21 mpg. Only change between these two data points is the tire pressure is at 32psi now and was previosly 37psi.
also two bikes on the back but i dont think they'd add much drag.
How wide are your tires? Surprised you got that good mileage. Thats stock gearing right? Maybe they just match the gearing better than the 29's?
How wide are your tires? Surprised you got that good mileage. Thats stock gearing right? Maybe they just match the gearing better than the 29's?
i am surprised also. The tires are 31x10.5 yokohamas and i love them. They are a good tire for a highway driven truck. Quiet as a church mouse. Stock 4.10 gearing and i compensated for the tire diameter/odometer error by adding 1 mile for every ten travelled in the calculation.
next i will try a run with super unleaded and see what happens.
1986 Toyota Truck 2WD X-Cab SR5 22RE with 5 speed manual and stock 3.58 differential. Use to record every fill up for like 15 years. My OCD was bad. The truck was rated 29 highway. I get 32 mpg doing 65 mph and 30 mpg doing 75 mph. Mixed driving 70% city/30% highway I get ~26 mpg, this can vary. Now after 34 years. the truck still gets basically the same mpg.
And about all this Canada vs America crap, who cares. I use both every day and think it's funny people are so patriotic towards their measurment systems.
I wonder if Americans even know they use metric when they substitute writing out out the zeros in thousand for the metric abbreaviation "K"
That is a good point, I also use both systems in everyday life and neither are hard to understand whatsoever. In CNC I end up using whatever is easiest at the time. Plus right here in the USA I have worked in places that use the metric system and places that use the standard imperial. My entry into the CNC buisness was at a large factory that used the metric system, we received engine block castings and machined them into complete engine blocks ready for assembly. Then I went to a smaller buisness and there we used imperial. Believe it or not I liked the metric system better especially when I first started switching to imperial. Now it’s 7 years later and I like both. I will add when it comes to tools I wish everything was metric. I much prefer using the metric system when it comes to tools but know both of them as well. Both systems are great systems and nothing more than the simplest of math in either case.
Last edited by Jaketheone46; 06-11-2020 at 05:52 AM.
1990 Toyota 4x4 Reg cab with 31x10.5x15 and and 4.10 gears I average 15mpg but this is no highway driving back and forth to and from work in stop and go traffic. In the mornings I’m there in 7 minutes and the way home takes me up to 35 minutes. That’s 4.4 miles each way so up to 35 minutes on the way home most of it is sitting or creeping along in 1st gear. Also with the stock gearing and 31s I don’t get to hit 5th gear at all on my way home. Well actually I do in one spot for about a 1/2 mile. In my situation I think 15mpg is good being if I take the 09 matrix it Averages 17mpg in the same situation. I won’t even go into what the old ford 5.8l van gets in the same situation but it’s in the single digits. The good thing about the end of my trip home the last mile is open without traffic so I get to give it a little cool down run after driving through 20/35min of traffic.
Last edited by Jaketheone46; 06-11-2020 at 06:07 AM.
So... if my speedo is 10% (+/- 0.5%) off - i.e. when 60mph shows on the speedo I'm doing 66mph etc. how does this affect my MPG calculations and/or the mileage showing on the odometer - do I add, subtract, put my left leg in, etc. to get a solid read on how far my gas is going. For instance if my tires (31x10.5R15) are going 10% further than my odometer shows because the 10% speed increase is NOT measured at the speedo the do I get 10% more MPG? PROBLEM: If I drive 100 miles according to my odometer, at an speedo indicated 55mph with tires that are delivering 60 miles mph, how many miles have I actually driven? Discuss!
Last edited by Rusty Bob; 07-09-2020 at 12:24 PM.
Reason: typo
So... if my speedo is 10% (+/- 0.5%) off - i.e. when 60mph shows on the speedo I'm doing 66mph etc. how does this affect my MPG calculations and/or the mileage showing on the odometer - do I add, subtract, put my left leg in, etc. to get a solid read on how far my gas is going. For instance if my tires (33x10.5R15) are going 10% further than my odometer shows because the 10% speed increase is NOT measured at the speedo the do I get 10% more MPG? PROBLEM: If I drive 100 miles according to my odometer, at an speedo indicated 55mph with tires that are delivering 60 miles mph, how many miles have I actually driven? Discuss!
Just because your speedometer reads off, no matter whether high , or low, it is not a certainty that the odometer tracks that same difference.
I have had vehicles that show a deviation of one sort on speed and an opposite deviation on the odometer.
It is necessary for you to run your machine over a measured course. (Highway mileposts are good). Ten miles is good, a hundred miles is even better and
then compare the odometer readings, start and finish, against the miles traveled, in order to gain an idea of what your odometer is recording, compared to actual miles traveled.
Once you know this, you should be able to do simple math to find true MPG. The ratio you find should remain the same as long as you keep the same tires.
just ran from nh to southern mi, to northern mi, back to southern mi, and back to nh from thursday to today (6 days). 2,040 miles, 23.01 mpg for the trip, mostly holding 60 to 65 mph, rarely 70. did not run 75 mph in michigan where that is the limit; too fast for my taste. looking back on my notes, same results as last year's trip. same trip length, same average mpg.
Fuel economy 1985 1 ton 22re 5 spd and want better from my 86
I came searching for ways to get better fuel economy from a 1986 1 ton auto. I bought a 1985 1 ton new off the showroom floor back in Nov 1984. It is a plane jane version of the 1 ton. 22re 5 speed. 185r14c Bridgestone tires. No power steering. No A/C. Vinyl bench seat. Vinyl floor cover. White paint. I paid $68 to get a passenger side rear view mirror and $190 for a chrome step bumper. I had the dealership rust proof the truck - what a joke. Quaker State process. The truck got 27mpg new with the tailgate up at average of 58-59mph. By 60K miles it had dropped slightly to 26.5 with the tailgate up and nearly 27mpg with the tailgate down.
I had to take it off the road at 62K miles back in 1996 due to frame rust. I ended up with an 88 22r 5 speed with 189K on it. It now has 298K miles. No A/C. Has power steering. Best it's done is 21mpg corrected with 195/75/14. I've put some 205/80/15's on Jeep wheels on it and not corrected it gets about 18 - 19mpg.
I have an 1986 21ft Sunrader motorhome. 22re auto 90K miles. 185r14c tires. Power steering and A/C - not used - has vent windows. 13-13.5 mpg at 56-58mph
We got a 1986 1 ton last summer. 140K miles. 22re auto. Has power steering and A/C needs a recharge to function. It's only getting 18 - 20mpg. I put new NGK spark plugs in it and NGK wires and new NGK cap and rotor. It doesn't start like my other 22re's The others - simply turn the key and they run. No throttle or such. This one is cold blooded. It had a seized spark plug when I got it that had obviously failed quite some time before I got it. It had sat for 3 years when I got it. I've noticed an occasional tendency to misfire and is apparently the cylinder that had the seized spark plug. I've cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air control valve. I've set the timing - it was retarded - apparently set without the jumper wire in place. I've ended up turning up the idle stop screw to get it to at least idle once it's running and the throttle is released. I replaced the O-ring on the idle air bypass screw and adjusted the air bypass screw for optimal cold idle. It runs better than when I got it but it doesn't start like my other 22re's. Cold start injector functions. We've run a dozen or so(more) cans of fuel injector cleaner and sea foam through the truck in the 6months/5K miles we've used it.
I am not expecting the 86 1 ton to get the same fuel economy as my 85 did due to the auto transmission and power steering but 7- 9 mpg seems a lot to loose for only adding an auto transmission and power steering. I'm looking for thoughts on possible issues that could be the cause of needing throttle tow start and the the lower fuel economy. Also if different fuel injectors would provide better fuel economy. I don't need it to make more power.
I expect that the fuels you were using back in the day were 100% petroleum fuels.
Likely that today, you are running 10% ethanol fuels, maybe even 15 percent ethanol.
Keep the lower calorific value of these 'oxygenated' fuels in mind when striving for better fuel mileage.
Thank you for the reply.
Ethanol modified fuel was already at the pumps in 1985 - primarily the discount fuel stations that I avoided at the time. However - if the percentage of ethanol was less than 10% - notice of the fuel being an ethanol blend was not required on the pump. Thus as a consumer we didn't know if we were buying some ethanol or not. I presumed that some of the decline in fuel economy with the 1985 1 ton during the 1985 - 1996 time frame to have been in part that ethanol was more prevalent in the fuels. As someone who grew up with leaded gas in the 60's - I have noticed how the fuel scent has changed over the years.
The use of E-10 over neet gasoline would result in about 3%-4% loss of fuel economy. Thus less than 1mpg. Nothing like the 25% - 35% lower fuel economy that I've noted with the 1986 1 ton over the 85 1 ton.
10-16-2017, 09:05 AM
88 3.0
