Pics of my HG replacement...sloooow going
11-01-2006, 07:24 PM
#83
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
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OOOOOO PREEEEETTYYYY
I really can't wait for you to get your runner all back together and let us know what its like to have a quick 3.0. I didn't have the balls you do to replace my headgasket myself so its sittin at the shop right now. I wish i had the money to do the kinda upgrades that you did. Think when its all said and done you can figure us up a final price for all of it, labor + parts?
I really can't wait for you to get your runner all back together and let us know what its like to have a quick 3.0. I didn't have the balls you do to replace my headgasket myself so its sittin at the shop right now. I wish i had the money to do the kinda upgrades that you did. Think when its all said and done you can figure us up a final price for all of it, labor + parts?
11-01-2006, 07:48 PM
#84
Registered User
Thread Starter
well i do have some concerns about being "quick"...the first of which being that my truck checks in at 4900lbs, of which about 500-600 of which is sound system. I think all of these mods done on a 3vze equipped 5sd pickup would make that truck pretty damn fast....(incidentally that's my next vehicle)
head work, gasket set, headbolts were 850 after shipping both ways, cams were 450 shipped both ways so thats right at 1300 for the head work. Labor I dont want to even think about, I took my time on it.
Knock sensor is 150 and knock sensor wire is 8 or so, and im still kicking around the notion of changing the sensor itself...wire will DEF be changed. Then I can probably get the oil cooler cleaned but before either of those things happen, the motor and tranny mounts are getting swapped. 17+ years and 275,000 miles couldn't have been good on them. They go for about 100 on ebay.
head work, gasket set, headbolts were 850 after shipping both ways, cams were 450 shipped both ways so thats right at 1300 for the head work. Labor I dont want to even think about, I took my time on it.
Knock sensor is 150 and knock sensor wire is 8 or so, and im still kicking around the notion of changing the sensor itself...wire will DEF be changed. Then I can probably get the oil cooler cleaned but before either of those things happen, the motor and tranny mounts are getting swapped. 17+ years and 275,000 miles couldn't have been good on them. They go for about 100 on ebay.
11-03-2006, 07:21 AM
#90
Registered User
Those pretty much look exactly like mine did. In my truck just the headwork alone with stock exhaust has made a significant difference. Get the new Knock sensor don't think twice, don't think at all just get it. Nothing is worse then having a bad KS on this engine, ask me how I know. Its almost as bad as changing the HG.
11-03-2006, 08:10 PM
#91
Registered User
Thread Starter
Eevven though imma litttel weee bitt tipsy riight now....new knocck senerso will be installed...heheheeh
Beer = goooood! lol
ps - whhy is the screeen movingg?
Beer = goooood! lol
ps - whhy is the screeen movingg?
11-08-2006, 09:32 AM
#93
Registered User
11-14-2006, 09:03 PM
#94
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nope not on my truck yet, im still trying ot prep the block surface properly.
thus far ive got most of the shineyness showing but there are areas that just dont seem to want to get clean....will post pics tomorrow
thus far ive got most of the shineyness showing but there are areas that just dont seem to want to get clean....will post pics tomorrow
11-28-2006, 06:20 AM
#97
Registered User
Lookin good man. I didn't know you were doing all this work, pretty much exactly the same as mine, less the bottom end. 275k and it's not time yet? And you want to turbo it later?
And in NC too. I'm in GV, SC. We'll have to get together sometime and let the other drive the other's. Will you compete at White Tiger in Feb? and Greensboro?
+1 on the wrench spots on the cams.
+1 on the pulling heads w/ exhaust still attached.
A reassembly trick if you aren't pulling the whole motor, put the headers down in the holes before attaching the heads. Otherwise you have to lift the motor to get the headers in. You might even try bolting the header to the head out of the truck (I think I did this once and it worked.) That sure would make it easier to tighten those headers!
Do some porting to the upper intake & plenum to match what you've done to the heads. It's easily done with the dremel and you are there already.
Let me know what you have to do to get it richened enough for it, mine's gotten a little lean at one spot.
Though I'm suspicious of the TPS.
I'm thinking richening the AFM one more tooth until I can do something with a Megasquirt. Maybe we band together and get with dcg on it. I'm getting a new computer for the Vrod and they have all kinds of wideband products too.
And in NC too. I'm in GV, SC. We'll have to get together sometime and let the other drive the other's. Will you compete at White Tiger in Feb? and Greensboro?
+1 on the wrench spots on the cams.
+1 on the pulling heads w/ exhaust still attached.
A reassembly trick if you aren't pulling the whole motor, put the headers down in the holes before attaching the heads. Otherwise you have to lift the motor to get the headers in. You might even try bolting the header to the head out of the truck (I think I did this once and it worked.) That sure would make it easier to tighten those headers!
Do some porting to the upper intake & plenum to match what you've done to the heads. It's easily done with the dremel and you are there already.
Let me know what you have to do to get it richened enough for it, mine's gotten a little lean at one spot.
Though I'm suspicious of the TPS.
I'm thinking richening the AFM one more tooth until I can do something with a Megasquirt. Maybe we band together and get with dcg on it. I'm getting a new computer for the Vrod and they have all kinds of wideband products too.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 11-28-2006 at 06:22 AM.
11-28-2006, 07:00 AM
#98
Registered User
I'm so in on the Megasquirt. That is something worth breaking out the Visa for me. If we could work together on it we might make it easier on each other.
11-28-2006, 08:05 AM
#100
Registered User
A reassembly trick if you aren't pulling the whole motor, put the headers down in the holes before attaching the heads. Otherwise you have to lift the motor to get the headers in. You might even try bolting the header to the head out of the truck (I think I did this once and it worked.) That sure would make it easier to tighten those headers!
not-so-much....
not only could i have done it before, it would have saved a bunch of time threading it onto the pass side later and tighting up hard-to-get-to bolts.
I did not have to move the block to set the pass side header. I did elect not to bolt the upper intake on till i had the egr and reed valves in place as i used the extra wiggle room to get everything lined up.
