Ive come to know that site well and have been goofing around on there for some time now. That's site is what had me coming up with a T04e-50 trim compressor - problem is those are about impossible to find on ebay. 57 trims are everywhere and they would work although not as efficient as the 50... I wound up firguring that id need about 27lbs of air/min to generat 250 hp and to do so it'd need about 15psi.

Im kicking around the merits of a .48 vs .63 AR hotside for the T3 turbine...

 

this was an old post I made back in the day about things I was going to do. Borrowing from NCSU Im showing what I've got done:

= done

 

Bumpin - is that how the KS wire comes? has anyone ever thought of wrapping it for more protection? maybe a dumb idea, but hey --

Kat

BTW - I dont know have good of a deal you need on headers but i just got mine with the crossover for 530 to my door(x-over is 100 bucks) -- Ceramic at that.

 

Another note to add for future searchers on the Head Gasket project -- We got both heads, both manifolds, EGR Valve, REED Valce, and the crossover exhaust pipe out in one piece( make sure you remove the heater pipe(not sure if that what its called) thats in the middle of the two heads.... there are 4 count em 4 10mm nuts you must remove- the last one is in the back under the shield(where the hole in the shield is).

My wife and I managed to get em out -- took about 10 minutes of arguing with the one 10mm bolt i forgot to take out -- but then it was cake --

 

noice!! Where didja get the headers from and what brand are they?

More pics coming...

 

AC compressor swap note worthy of mentioning:

You will NEED to swap over the box plate that the pressurized lines attach to! I did not know this when I went to pick up the new one. Pics = 1000 words or more! Also check out the craftsman tq wrench! I LOVE it!!!!



As I was waiting for a new right side headgasket from engine builder (shipping messed one up) I decided to do some cleaning followed up with some cosmetic work:




One of 2 that I repainted!




Ok who can guessed where I screwed up?



Remember that HG I was talking about earlier? All I gotta say is Ted at Engine Builder is THE MAN!!!!! When he got my addy, he sent me a new one FREE of charge on friday and it arrived today from OR!!!! He also mentioned something about a check being sent to me to cover the expense of return shipping! Now THAT is customer service!! Just like what you get from Dillion Precision with their No BS warranty, like you get from Tippmann industries on their A5, and just like you get from Ruger or Perazzi for their shotguns! (or beretta should you own a DT10)

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND ENGINE BUILDER!!!!!!!!!

 

Great work! That makes sense, the cross-over can stay on when you take the whole engine out so why not keep it on when just removing the heads. Everyone complains how hard it is to remove, so it's not even required huh?

 

Good, clean progress!

And yes, EB is the man

 

Looking good so far. Any ETA on a completion date???
-=Morphine=-

 

Bumpin -- the headers are from Downey(ceramic) with X-Over and they are coming from Baja Concepts(530 otd)

Goat -- YES, by far the easiest way(well, i dont know that i can qualify that statement considering that this is the first time i have taken a 3vze apart.). I saw everyone suffering with that dang x-over and decided to find a better way!

WAY TO GO ON THE PROGRESS !!

I am eyeing that craftsman torque wrench you have -- I keep leaning towards the SK version ....

 

Those are some d@ng beautiful valve covers! Good Job!

 

thank you thank you!

Well here is the new AC compressor in place:


Many people TALK about doing the big 3, but not too many people, myself included, that the block to chassis ground resides here! Behind the AC compressor and in front of the motor mount!



The block finally prepped and ready!


Here is the top side of the passenger bank head gasket. Notice the expanded fire ring goes WAAAAY out to the side.



And the bottom of the same 2 gaskets. Again notice that hte fire rings are all separate on the new gasket.

 

Now notice the different cooling ports!



And lastly that I took pics of:




Currently the head is on right now just not tq'ed down yet. That's tonight after I get home from work!

 

Great progress on the build.

 

Driver's side head before installation



In order to install the heads you have to pull the camshafts. Kinda sucks, but that's life. Take a look at the next picture: That flange just forward of the distributor gear is WHY you follow the TFSM's detorquing procedure to the T!! I learned my lesson when I was tearing down 3 or 4 months ago and broke that flange!



Once all tension has been relieved on the bearing caps and all screws are about 1/4" above the caps, as seen below, you can start removing them as seen here:



Cam removed!



Remember everyone talking about chasing the block? Well since I didnt have a chasing kit, I did the next best thing! Grabbed an old headbolt, cleaned it up, then cut 2 notches out of the threads using an angle grinder! Prior to this pic I had triple chased every headbolt but after the pic I decided to have a go at it with my cordless drill at the lowest tq setting. I got more junk out of the threads that 4th fast time than I ever did chasing by hand!!



Another shot of headgaskets, thistime drivers side top view. Notice again that the rear two water jacket holes are different sizes! The far left rearmost water passage port is what blew on the origional headgasket. As yall can see, the new HG can't possibly blow there due to the extended fire ring!



AFter doing that, final prepping the block, placing the HG down, lining up the xover and downpipe, and plopping the head down I lubed the first EPN 10.9 headbolt! Here is what the lube EPN gives you looks like. (It kinda smells like really strong coffee or tea interestingly enough.)



Headbolts all tq'ed down and now begining reinstallation of camshaft!



Me so horny!



Yall have NO idea how much it lifts my spirits to see yota coming back together again!!

 

also worthy of note is that I put gear oil on the headbolt's heads and washers. I also placed gear oil on all bearing surfaces. My thoughts are that gear oil would be superior to conventional motor oil during initial start up, and better at releiving tension on the boltheads as I was torquing them down.

Interestingly enough most of the 3vz-e headbolts only needed about 60-65ftlbs of tq to get them 90* past 33ftlbs, and 85ftlbs of tq to get them 180*

 

Looks great!

Yeah it takes less torque for well lubed threads. The torque wrench is basicly measuring the turning resistance of the bolt, so the less friction the lower the torque reading. That's why its more accurate to measure degrees of rotation rather than just using the torque wrench for the whole tightening process.

 

So I read you should have her running in about 2 weeks....the timer starts NOW!!! HaHaHa, looking good. Any plans for a dyno run? And this will include Weasy2k's cams right?
-=Morphine=-

 

unfortunately I have an auto which makes running on the dyno a bit of a PITA since it will always want to downshift...

 

Whoa man you still working on that

Looking friggen amazing man GREAT work. That time and effort will really pay off!

If you want to solve that problem with the tranny i have ways of doing so...just involves playing with the ecu wiring.
I gotta make a small box that people can plug in and make it so it shifts into 2nd or 3rd and locks the tq converter when your on the dyno...