Pics of my HG replacement...sloooow going
01-17-2007, 08:38 PM
#141
BumpinYota, your almost there, just as I am. Put my heads on today and torqued'em down. I would've never guessed you could crank down on a bolt like that and not break it. Thank God for torque wrenches and breaker bars! I'll post some pix of my project tomorrow. And "justinking" I put some plastic wire protection on Knock Sensor wire when I installed it. Also, to answer my own question, camshaft "dowel Pin" was $2.06 at the stealership.
01-21-2007, 05:58 PM
#142
Registered User
HEy Steve cool progress you'll get some nice tools to button it together soon 
....
AS for the tranny, have you considered sending the valvebody to IPT to get the mod done to it? Harder, crisper shifts and you'll get better acceleration... you know you want it!!!
....AS for the tranny, have you considered sending the valvebody to IPT to get the mod done to it? Harder, crisper shifts and you'll get better acceleration... you know you want it!!!
01-31-2007, 08:54 PM
#146
Registered User
Thread Starter
How I torqed the cam gears down to 80 ft lbs
Timing Belt done!
My spark plugs reconditioned courtesy of my local police department's fleet maintainance sand blaster!
Covers and false water pump on!
Pressure testing the fuel rails....which LEAKED!!
ALL of the crush washers leaked so I ordered new ones. The next day they came in so I instaled after work. Wola! No more leaks, or so I thought! Then I started to notice that my "fuel pulsation dampener" was leaking! Low and behold it was seeping fuel! Here's what it looks like and runs 111 at your local dealership!
While Ive been wiating for the new feul pulsation dampener to arrive, I've changed the oil, filter, coolant, flushed, filled, and primed the power steering pump, and buttoned EVERYTHING else up save the plenum and the fuel rail work.
Oh and Ill need to pick up new batteries for my truck too.
The SVR 75s finally gave up the ghost.
Timing Belt done!
My spark plugs reconditioned courtesy of my local police department's fleet maintainance sand blaster!
Covers and false water pump on!
Pressure testing the fuel rails....which LEAKED!!
ALL of the crush washers leaked so I ordered new ones. The next day they came in so I instaled after work. Wola! No more leaks, or so I thought! Then I started to notice that my "fuel pulsation dampener" was leaking! Low and behold it was seeping fuel! Here's what it looks like and runs 111 at your local dealership!
While Ive been wiating for the new feul pulsation dampener to arrive, I've changed the oil, filter, coolant, flushed, filled, and primed the power steering pump, and buttoned EVERYTHING else up save the plenum and the fuel rail work.
Oh and Ill need to pick up new batteries for my truck too.
The SVR 75s finally gave up the ghost.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 01-31-2007 at 09:09 PM.
01-31-2007, 10:16 PM
#147
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haha kick arse!!
SUcks about the dampener tho man...Toyota doesn't help us out when it comes to parts prices
The tq converter lockup is pretty easy...depends on what you want to do...have an override switch or preprogrammed or whatever you want i can try to make it happen.
SUcks about the dampener tho man...Toyota doesn't help us out when it comes to parts prices
The tq converter lockup is pretty easy...depends on what you want to do...have an override switch or preprogrammed or whatever you want i can try to make it happen.
02-01-2007, 12:26 AM
#148
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Moreno Valley, Ca
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So Close Man!!!! I can't wait to getthe report on how it handles. Mine's been doing great (minus blown tires and a stupid dead battery that was my fault). You'll need to share with us al if the cams are noticeable as I have my spare cams waiting here...ready to go to Weasy (pending tax money 
)
-=Morphine=-
)-=Morphine=-
02-01-2007, 01:14 AM
#149
Registered User
Lookn good man, can't wait till she purrs, for your sake 
I'm debating a lift or rebuilding the engine here myself. I'm collecting parts for both at about the same pace so I dunno. Engine (22R) still runs strong, but... could always be stronger
Tell me about it. Picked up the "No. 2 Crankshaft Pulley" for my 22R today to run the Power Steering I got off a 22RE (1988 p/u). $75.00 or something for the pulley... Then after realizing no bolts I had in the garage, or at any autopart store or even the store that specializes in screws and bolts, would work to fasten it to the "No 1. Crankshaft pulley" (FSM referals here hehe) another special order of 4 No. 2 Crankshaft pulley BOLTS! hahaha ... atleast I make them dig hard for the parts I need, makes me feel im getting my moneys worth, almost. =P
I'm debating a lift or rebuilding the engine here myself. I'm collecting parts for both at about the same pace so I dunno. Engine (22R) still runs strong, but... could always be stronger
Tell me about it. Picked up the "No. 2 Crankshaft Pulley" for my 22R today to run the Power Steering I got off a 22RE (1988 p/u). $75.00 or something for the pulley... Then after realizing no bolts I had in the garage, or at any autopart store or even the store that specializes in screws and bolts, would work to fasten it to the "No 1. Crankshaft pulley" (FSM referals here hehe) another special order of 4 No. 2 Crankshaft pulley BOLTS! hahaha ... atleast I make them dig hard for the parts I need, makes me feel im getting my moneys worth, almost. =P
02-02-2007, 04:34 AM
#151
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lookn good man, can't wait till she purrs, for your sake
I'm debating a lift or rebuilding the engine here myself. I'm collecting parts for both at about the same pace so I dunno. Engine (22R) still runs strong, but... could always be stronger
Tell me about it. Picked up the "No. 2 Crankshaft Pulley" for my 22R today to run the Power Steering I got off a 22RE (1988 p/u). $75.00 or something for the pulley... Then after realizing no bolts I had in the garage, or at any autopart store or even the store that specializes in screws and bolts, would work to fasten it to the "No 1. Crankshaft pulley" (FSM referals here hehe) another special order of 4 No. 2 Crankshaft pulley BOLTS! hahaha ... atleast I make them dig hard for the parts I need, makes me feel im getting my moneys worth, almost. =P
I'm debating a lift or rebuilding the engine here myself. I'm collecting parts for both at about the same pace so I dunno. Engine (22R) still runs strong, but... could always be stronger
Tell me about it. Picked up the "No. 2 Crankshaft Pulley" for my 22R today to run the Power Steering I got off a 22RE (1988 p/u). $75.00 or something for the pulley... Then after realizing no bolts I had in the garage, or at any autopart store or even the store that specializes in screws and bolts, would work to fasten it to the "No 1. Crankshaft pulley" (FSM referals here hehe) another special order of 4 No. 2 Crankshaft pulley BOLTS! hahaha ... atleast I make them dig hard for the parts I need, makes me feel im getting my moneys worth, almost. =P
If you need to order any more toyota parts and can wait a few shipping days then you should check out this thread!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72371
Basically any toyota part for 25% off with free shipping for us yotatech members. Personally I've bought my fuel pulsation dampener, powersteering rebuild kit, knock sensor and knock sensor wire through them! And on those items they have saved me over 100 bucks compared to my local dealership!
02-02-2007, 03:32 PM
#152
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How I torqed the cam gears down to 80 ft lbs
Timing Belt done!
My spark plugs reconditioned courtesy of my local police department's fleet maintainance sand blaster!
Covers and false water pump on!
Pressure testing the fuel rails....which LEAKED!!
ALL of the crush washers leaked so I ordered new ones. The next day they came in so I instaled after work. Wola! No more leaks, or so I thought! Then I started to notice that my "fuel pulsation dampener" was leaking! Low and behold it was seeping fuel! Here's what it looks like and runs 111 at your local dealership!
While Ive been wiating for the new feul pulsation dampener to arrive, I've changed the oil, filter, coolant, flushed, filled, and primed the power steering pump, and buttoned EVERYTHING else up save the plenum and the fuel rail work.
Oh and Ill need to pick up new batteries for my truck too. The SVR 75s finally gave up the ghost.
Timing Belt done!
My spark plugs reconditioned courtesy of my local police department's fleet maintainance sand blaster!
Covers and false water pump on!
Pressure testing the fuel rails....which LEAKED!!
ALL of the crush washers leaked so I ordered new ones. The next day they came in so I instaled after work. Wola! No more leaks, or so I thought! Then I started to notice that my "fuel pulsation dampener" was leaking! Low and behold it was seeping fuel! Here's what it looks like and runs 111 at your local dealership!
While Ive been wiating for the new feul pulsation dampener to arrive, I've changed the oil, filter, coolant, flushed, filled, and primed the power steering pump, and buttoned EVERYTHING else up save the plenum and the fuel rail work.
Oh and Ill need to pick up new batteries for my truck too.
The SVR 75s finally gave up the ghost. CT
02-02-2007, 06:45 PM
#153
Registered User
Thread Starter
I assembled the rails and all of their connections, including the line that feeds the cold start injector. Buttoned it all up then stuck a bottle on the outlet for the FPR. To kick the fuel pump on, I charged up the batts (they were dead), put the key in, turned it to "ON", then plugged in my VAFM and pushed the flap in!
You immediately hear the fuel pump kick on and then a few seconds later air comes out of the FPR return line then followed by fuel!
You immediately hear the fuel pump kick on and then a few seconds later air comes out of the FPR return line then followed by fuel!
08-08-2007, 08:24 AM
#154
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i'd like to bump this thread to acknowlege Bumpin Yota's excellent description of how to test the fuel rails for leaks. I followed it to the T and am now much more relieved that I won't have any leaks under the plenum once I get everything put back together. huzzah!
09-13-2007, 03:06 PM
#155
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you blow up? You still alive? Tell us more about your project!
What brand and kind of head gasket did you use? Why didn't you go with a MLS head gasket? Looks great so far, please tell us more and show us more pics!
What brand and kind of head gasket did you use? Why didn't you go with a MLS head gasket? Looks great so far, please tell us more and show us more pics!
09-13-2007, 03:12 PM
#156
Registered User
Thread Starter
She is running damn strong for what's still wrong with her.
All cylinders save 1 and 6 are at 145psi compression (145 is damn low.) 1 is at 90ps and 6 is at 100. Even with those two weak cylinders, the truck is stronger than it ever was - particularly when the temperature goes below 80*F. The reason for the compression issues is HG issues - I made a painful mistake - not getting the block decked, and now it has bit me on the a$$.
I have a new block that will be keeping the OEM crank, getting forged pistons, 5vz-fe rods, balancing, head studs from ARP (pending price), and MLS hgs. Of course decked and punched if needed.
I want this focker bullet proof so she'll laugh at a 150 wet shot.
But yeah despite the issues she's running great and gets 93 octane Hess gas with 17* BTDC timing advance with not a hint of pinging. It pulls GREAT above 3k.
All cylinders save 1 and 6 are at 145psi compression (145 is damn low.) 1 is at 90ps and 6 is at 100. Even with those two weak cylinders, the truck is stronger than it ever was - particularly when the temperature goes below 80*F. The reason for the compression issues is HG issues - I made a painful mistake - not getting the block decked, and now it has bit me on the a$$.
I have a new block that will be keeping the OEM crank, getting forged pistons, 5vz-fe rods, balancing, head studs from ARP (pending price), and MLS hgs. Of course decked and punched if needed.
I want this focker bullet proof so she'll laugh at a 150 wet shot.
But yeah despite the issues she's running great and gets 93 octane Hess gas with 17* BTDC timing advance with not a hint of pinging. It pulls GREAT above 3k.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 09-13-2007 at 03:16 PM.
09-13-2007, 05:32 PM
#157
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
She is running damn strong for what's still wrong with her.
All cylinders save 1 and 6 are at 145psi compression (145 is damn low.) 1 is at 90ps and 6 is at 100. Even with those two weak cylinders, the truck is stronger than it ever was - particularly when the temperature goes below 80*F. The reason for the compression issues is HG issues - I made a painful mistake - not getting the block decked, and now it has bit me on the a$$.
I have a new block that will be keeping the OEM crank, getting forged pistons, 5vz-fe rods, balancing, head studs from ARP (pending price), and MLS hgs. Of course decked and punched if needed.
I want this focker bullet proof so she'll laugh at a 150 wet shot.
But yeah despite the issues she's running great and gets 93 octane Hess gas with 17* BTDC timing advance with not a hint of pinging. It pulls GREAT above 3k.
All cylinders save 1 and 6 are at 145psi compression (145 is damn low.) 1 is at 90ps and 6 is at 100. Even with those two weak cylinders, the truck is stronger than it ever was - particularly when the temperature goes below 80*F. The reason for the compression issues is HG issues - I made a painful mistake - not getting the block decked, and now it has bit me on the a$$.
I have a new block that will be keeping the OEM crank, getting forged pistons, 5vz-fe rods, balancing, head studs from ARP (pending price), and MLS hgs. Of course decked and punched if needed.
I want this focker bullet proof so she'll laugh at a 150 wet shot.
But yeah despite the issues she's running great and gets 93 octane Hess gas with 17* BTDC timing advance with not a hint of pinging. It pulls GREAT above 3k.
09-14-2007, 05:19 AM
#158
Registered User
Thread Starter
did you retorque the headbolts after 1000 miles? I didnt and kinda wish I had.... I cant help but wonder if that or if any warpage, in spec or not, could be causing this.
Im also going with headstuds this time around as long as they are less than 300. Im pretty sure im going to go with MLS hgs too. Either that or fireringing the b!tch and using copper HGs. I have to talk to my performance shop about those two options first.
Im also going with headstuds this time around as long as they are less than 300. Im pretty sure im going to go with MLS hgs too. Either that or fireringing the b!tch and using copper HGs. I have to talk to my performance shop about those two options first.
09-14-2007, 05:45 AM
#159
Contributing Member
Here's what EB had to say once about head bolt torquing:
This may not all apply to studs though.
>>>*Other than simple overheat, the #1 cause of head gasket failure is clamping force variations.
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
Usually when I mention this, the answer is "I torqued it properly!"
*Yes, very likely, but torque, which is a twisting force, means almost nothing when we are talking about clamping force.
Dirt or machinery debris in the bolt holes will throw the clamping force off as much as 50% and more, even though the torque wrench reads perfectly normal.
The same happens when installing new bolts. The very best bolts made will show a rough mating surface at the threads when inspected under a microscope.
When installing new or used fastners, first be sure the bolt will spin in and out ALL THE WAY freely with simple finger pressure. Be sure they are lightly oiled, not too much which can hydraulic lock at the bottom of any blind holes and spoil your day.
Use this simple breakin procedure for any new bolts: Tighten all of them to 50%, back off 1/4 turn, then to 75%, back off 1/4 turn. Then take them to 100%, back off 1/4 turn and repeat. Do a retorque after full warmup.
*This procedure simply assures that the imperfections of the threads seat to the bolt hole threads.
Yes, time consuming, but much faster and less costly than another set of gaskets, the actual clamping force will increase vastly, even though the torque load is exactly the same.
The alternative is you may be additional twisting at the top of the bolt after the threads have come to a stop from excess friction.
If any single one does that, head gasket failure prematurely is gauranteed, plus it weakens the bolt....*EB
Last edited by mt_goat; 09-14-2007 at 05:47 AM.
09-14-2007, 08:37 PM
#160
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats the thing, with my grade 10.9 headbolts, I did EXACTLY those instuctions applied to the torque to yield procedure. And believe me I was super anal about it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[SouthEast]: Brand new 26 mm. Downey torsion bars
HiLuxer
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
2
09-09-2015 02:43 PM
