Bumpin' Yota

Thats the theory, however im going to have engine builder's son rebuild the heads which includes reshimming of the valves. After that I need to get in touch with weasy2k to see if he can fit the heads with his cams...hehe

Bumpin' Yota

Ok now that Im back I decided to attack it again today! I pulled the EGR reed valve off in this pic, and wow I can see the crossover pipe's nuts. (couldnt budge them for the life of me though!)




Next I took off the heat sheild seen above and removed the 6 14mm exhaust studs via the nuts that refused to let go!



Here are the exhaust studs. Thank You God they came out in this manner, allowed me to push the crossover back and down from the driver's side head, thus freeing the driver's side head. Here you see the loose exhaust studs and nuts



And becuase of that I was able to pull out the driver's side head, and now the path is clear for the passneger head! And here is what I was confronted with!



Another view that reveals where the HG decided to go on vacation!





I HOPE TO HELL this is a casting imperfection!!!!! #6 cylinder head!

Bumpin' Yota

And lastly this tool is the best 13 bux I have EVER SPENT!!! Harbour freight knocked this one out of the ˟˟˟˟˟˟ ballpark! It works SOOO well!




Lastly I thought these HG's were supposed to be hard to get off? With a little careful lifting I pulled my HG with complete ease and it's 100% intact. Here is the block surface minus HG.

Bumpin' Yota

Oh yeah for the National FITASC shoot I ended up 5th overall out of about 200 shooters. But on the second parcour i shot a perfect score 25/25 and the squad shot my hat!! (25s are pretty damn tough to do in FITASC, but none the less I had done it previous...oh well) Here's the pics of my not so torn up hat!

Morphine

Memories. Man BY I remember doing all of this to my engine last year and you walking me through much of this. I know I haven't been posting as much (stupid job!) but I'm still here. She's looking good. Keep it upi and keep the updates coming.

Bumpin' Yota

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!




I only hope that it is fixable....*gulp*

04 Rocko Taco

Oh man, that doesnt look so good BY. Your doin great work though, I been following the thread, and I figured it was finally time I chimed in...I hope that is fixable...but if not...time for new ones, right? you were just looking for an exscuse anyway, right? Least thats how it always went when we were rebuilding rice rocket motors, soemthing broken, oh well, just have to get a new one...Not to bad.

Bumpin' Yota

I was pulling that one to send with the driver's side cam to be reground. Unfortunately I just found out that it's not fixable. So time to hunt down some on ebay or just break down and get one from discount autoparts for 144. Then send the new cam in with the driver's side and have them reground.

NOTE FOR POEPLE PULLING CAMS! Rotate the cam so that NONE of the valve buckets are engaged and thus applying torque to the camshaft! Also even if they all seem loose, they all arent and all must be detorqued in steps....arrrg

(My #3 cam lobes were pushind down the shims and like an idiot I had already pulled the rearmost journal cap....arrrg

Bumpinyota = idiot at times...

Bassinfool

I had the same problem on one of my camshafts. just break that piece off (carefully) and grind the edges smooth on the camshaft with a dremel. You should be fine. That's the advice I got from my machine shop, and haven't had a problem with it yet (it's been over 3 years).

KempLN3R

If your interested, I have a couple of Cams each would have to be ground but since you are going to do it anyway, this would save you $$ @ $50.00 each. (Engine had 200K)

BTW what does it normally cost to have the Cam ground?? I may just go ahead and get them done.

I also have a couple of complete heads with the Cam still installed, even with the Exhaust Manifold on it for $150 each. They came from an engine with 112K.

Just let me know which side you need. Drivers or Passenger

Hope this helps!

TNRabbit

This site ROCKS!

Bumpin' Yota

OMG are you serious? I need the passenger side cam, it just cant have a break like on mine. What's the condition on the journals on it? YAAAAAY!! LOL

The cheapest I had found these for was 140 shipped new from a user on ebay with 96% positive Then advanced discount was cheapest after that.

I may also need to pick up a head. I think there is a crack btwn the exhaust and intake valve on cyl #6. Not sure yet. Do your heads have the shims in them still too?

As far as the cost for cam regrinds it's 405+shipping iirc through http://www.sea2skytuning.com/shop/. Dyno tests have proven the cams work AWSOME in the 3vze, but he doesnt have billet cores so he needs each person's origional cams. Weasy2k is our source on this board for them, and is awsome! I think I've pm'ed him 4 times today already and he's been on top of each and every one!

Epic Ed

Nice progress. Your photos and details are very insightful and may come in handy for me soon. I'm continuing to have all sorts of problems with my engine -- I'll start another thread about it, but just wanted to thank you for documenting the engine tear-down. I may have some questions for you.

Ed

Bumpin' Yota

Epic Ed -

thank you, and I love documenting stuff like this! There arent nearly enough pics of the internals of 3vz-e floating around imo! hehe

KempLN3R -

you've got PM back. I need that cam ASAP if it's in good condition.

Bassinfool -

I like that idea, but I kinda want to keep my truck as close to OEM specs as possible. I just dont want to take any risks. If things were to deteriorate, I'd have to buy a whole head instead of just a cam.

Bumpin' Yota

Here is the backside of a cooling passage that goes to the plenum (iirc) that needs to be unbolted from the passneger side head



And a few shots of the camshaft prior to removal






See the bearing number 1 and the direction? Interestingly enough the order is exaclty reverse on the driver's side!

bsanders30096

After reading about all the horror stories, I thought I'd add this...This is what I did. Sprayed each nut with Liquid Wrench. Let them sit for a while. I then took a 1/2" drive deep well socket (14mm), put it on a 1/2" drive swivel, then about 30" worth of 1/2" drive extensions, then a 1/2" drive wrench of course. But then I took a 4-5' steel/aluminum pipe that would fit over the wrench for leverage. While coming in from the under-back side (behind the front wheels), I was able to get the socket right on the head of all the underside nuts. With the 4' pipe over the wrench, the nuts were no match. THIS WORKS GREAT!!!!

Bumpin' Yota

im not sure I follow bsanders30096...got any pics?

Bumpin' Yota

They say that if you look close enough there is a silver lining to everything. I found mine yesterday. If you look closely at my cylinder walls, they ALL have the factory crosshatching!!!!!!!

Even after 274,5XX miles!!! God I love toyota!

If I had a SFA, i'd drop the oil pan and swap all the bearing inserts, and not worry about anything for another 300,000 on this baby!

Bumpin' Yota

Cams are AWAY....Weasy2k, you got PM!

I shipped em USPS and it was about 38 bux and theyll be there in a week!

Prior to packaging!

jeepboyny

Here is a thought... It's how I did mine anyway.... Instead of all that pain trying to get the crossover off with the rusty bolts and such, why not just leave the manifolds and the crossover all attached, and lift the two heads off at the same time, then it's easy as pie to remove those stubborn nuts when you have the whole assembly sitting on the bench.

Also remember this for reassembly!! Getting that crossover pipe in there after the heads are installed is a PITA!! You have to put it in either by lifting the rubber flap and inserting thru from the driver's side wheelwell, OR I'd say the best thing to do is set the crossover in next to the firewall before installing the heads and exhaust manifolds.