I'm pretty certain ECU will have to be tweaked to take advantage; otherwise, it's going to adjust everything as if it was a stock engine doing stock things...

You could loosen the motor mounts & pull it forward a little for room to access the bolts...

 

Can't help ya with the exhaust manifold nuts, but this is a head on pic of those 3m roloc scotch brite pads, I used one for the entire hg replacement, I prefered it better a little worn out as it wasn't quite as abrasive and put an even shinier finish on the surface.



As far as everything falling in the water passeges I let em fall, and then just flushed the system forward and back.

Here's a pic of the finish it'll leave, combined with some carb cleaner it took off the stuck on tbody gasket with ease!!



Hope that helps some

 

I used the same 3M disks on my rebuild. Id like to say i didnt have a problem but the HG on the pass side leaked after i got it put back together. Im convinced something was messed up with the gasket. (well see second one is almost on)

as for the manafold take it off the other side then take the head off with it still attached. (it should work) or just cut the bastard in half and go with some headers

 

Yep, mine had to be cut off.

 

had to cut my crossover off as well...

Maybe you got the pulley bolts off already, but I used a 10 (maybe 12mm) socket on an extension and passed it through one of the spokes of the pulley. This socket grabs onto one of the backing plate bolts. Like a anchor of sorts for leverage.

Two people then. One holds the extension (stronger person recommended) and the other uses a very long breaker bar on the bolt. I used my Hi-Lift jack handle.

Anyway, that method worked really well and both bolts came out.

 

Ran into similar stuff alot working on stuff. Exahaust nuts/bolts suck the long big one.
What i use now is this little nut splitter. it basically goes around the nut and you use a ratchet or wrench to tighten down the chisle inside to split the nut in pieces. sometimes it takes two cuts but it always works.

You can try while its still in car or get it out like it was mentioned and splitting it on the bench which will probably prove to be the easiest way.

i will go out in the pit i call a garage and find it and take a quick pic for ref. Think i paid 5 bucks for the thing at a auto parts store.

 

here is a pic of whats saved me countless times.



Its 6.99 @ harbor frieght
Link link

 

or you can hit with a ingresol impact 1000 ft lbs in reverse

 

send me one and I will! And ill feed you sushi, donuts, and beer!

 

Well I made some nice progress today albeit slow going. (I just got back from a weekend excursion up to MD where I got soaking wet....lol)

First up the cam gears. Before my trip to MD i got all the hardware but didnt do anything aboot it. Well I got grade 5 7/16" bolts (they were cheaper than 7/16 standard bolts...go figure) And used them in my makeshift breaker bar (box steel extensions about 36" long) As you can see here one still bent but not by much!!



When breaking loose the nuts on the cam gear I deflected that 1/2" breaker bar a good 15* and it flet like I was nearly putting all of my downward force on it!! here is what the 3vze looks like without the cam gears and cam gear plate behind them!



I went to harbour freight and got the nut splitters as mentioned. First time going to town on the nut it just took about 1/4 of the nut off with no overall reaction. Couldnt get a different angle for a different cut so out came the rotozip with a dremel grinding wheel bit! Inside of 30 min of its debut the nut came off, along with the other 2 nuts that where hard as hell to get to!



And when she came off the crossover suddenly reacted and moved away from the driver's side manifold! Note the crack btwn the manifold and crossover!

 

...nut splitters... ....sounds darned painful!

BTW B-Y: You can stuff bits of rags into your water channels to prevent gunk from falling in...

 

LOL, yeah it has been a wee bit painful, though not in that area! Date #5 had me going with a lady friend of mine to a church function where there was about 100 million kids. Did i say screaming kids makes me want to dip my balls in battery acid? lol

I had to buy some EXTEEEEEEEEEEENTIONS at harbour freight to reach the downpipe's nuts. lol I said nuts!



To get to all 3 of the downpipe's nuts you first have to move this support bracket! 2 14mm to unbolt it from the tranny



Next you have to attack this 12mm bolt (below) that holds the braket seen above:



Now slide the whole thing down the pipe and youll be able to access all 3 of the downpipe's nuts! See the down pipes bolts? Yeah nuts are already off!!



Anyhow, more good progress! Here is the drivers side valve cover off and loosening head bolts!


here is the cracked open head....pandora's box has been opened!!!





Worthy of note, I left the cam in place so as to pull the head, and with it and its caps inplace only 4 of the 9 head bolts can be pulled out. However what's really pissing me off is that the crossover's exhuast studs and the steel dowels going up in the head make pulling the head impossible until i get the other side of the crossover pipe off! UGG. No bueno!

 

ps - now im leaving tomorrow in the wee hours of the morning to attend the National FITASC shoot at Hunters Point, NC. But not before attending 2 tae kwon do classes in a row tonight!! However I wont be back to work on yota till monday. Oh man im tasteing her being done as I near the 3/8th mark!!!

 

Man am I glad I have a 22re, whew, no way I would want to do that. GOod luck!

 

here I feel the same way about 22re's when I see pics of them! LOL I guess you just have to get ot know your engine and you end up catagorizing the various parts as you go.

 

Sorry to hijack, but I've been looking around for these to clean my 22RE. Where can I get these to fit an electric drill? Or does the holder you've been using with the air tools work with a drill as well? Thanks for the info!

Good progress btw on the 3.0

 

I picked it up at napa, it fits right into my electric drill... The otherside is kind of like real heavy duty velcro type stuff that grabs on real hard to the disk. Cost like $6, its made by 3M and its in a plastic blister pack.

 

Thanks!

 

Go get 'em, Bumpin'! I've seen some of this work done to my ride a few times in the past, and I read most of the threads tough guys like you post to help us keep track of the progress. I gotta tell ya, I still don't think I could judt dive right in like you're doing. Excellent job! I don't know of anyone who has actually removed that cross over pipe. Even the best of mechanics ususally end up cutting it out of there. You are damn persistant. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Ed

 

Bumpin'Yota , when you pulled the cylinder head out did you also remove the camshaft out also? it seem that you left it with the cylinder head so does it mean that when you put it back on you don't really have to adjust the valve for clearance?