well, so when i can get it to work, i put my windows down, but the passenger side RARELY goes up or down unless i sit on the switch for about 3 mins and then just play with it till it works. Now i dont think this is a common TOYOTA problem, the crappy roads and door SLAMMING passengers obviously have contributed to this disaster. so i need to know, am i dealing with the motor or do i need new switchs? can anyone give me some advise what to check for. the motor works fine when it does work but thats not often.

 

Ive sorta got the same promblem just mine won't go down or up. I fink the motors screwed in mine bcoos it makes a tic tic noise wen i push the buton but im not completly sure.

 

mine doesthat too but i seem to think it is still functioning, but there is something else stopping it from working, i do think it is my motor, cause someone told me that it is probably the switichs, buti was thinking how could it be the switichs when BOTH would stop working at the same time. so i think the banging from roads and slammed doors has messed the motor. maybe the surfs had a problem with window motors???

 

don't know but im trying to find a replacement motor . but im going to take the motor out and see if it works

 

i would've but i seem to think there is some work involed in that, so i am waiting till the B&B is built and running in 8 months if that works for you pm me to let me know

 

Will do

 

Subscribed because mine does the same. Passenger side works, but not using the driver's side switch.

 

the switches have copper contacts that have a lot of current flowing through them. each time you use the switch these contacts arc a little bit, leaving bits of carbon residue. eventually this crap builds up to the point where the switches don't make good contact anymore.

pull your switches out, take 'em apart, and clean them. take them apart carefully though cause the switches are all little rockers with springs. when i did it they went bouncing all across the floor and i had to pick them all up one by one.

some people have aparently had luck with just squirting some wd40 in there.

it's a pretty common problem, apparently.

 

pencil eraser on the switch contacts.

intermitant failure is likely contacts, could be in the motor though. check all the connections first.

 

I had problems with all my passenger windows on my older 4runner and i fixed it after wrestling with it for ages.

First pull the door panel and disconect the switch.
then pull a wire from the battery and jump the motor (invert wires to go up and down).

If it works fine your motors are good.

I had to replace all the passenger switches to get them to work.
I think if one is bad i messes up the circuit or something.

After that it worked like new untill i sold it.

 

Usually need to fix up the window switch itself:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#WindowSwitch

 

There's a passenger window regulator with a motor on ebay.

 

When I got my truck I could only roll front passenger's window down about 40% of the time when using the driver's multi switch. I took it apart to look at the switch and there was a lot of crap on the contact where the rocker would contact to roll it down. I cleaned it off real good, and it worked again. Just be careful not to let the tiny springs in the window master lock switch fly out like I did.

 

Electrical Connection Cleaner/Preservative , look up "DeoxIT"
Great stuff for switches and variable/slide resistors as well (Audio/Electrical).

 

Make sure your window lock switch isn't on.

 

its not, and i ripped it apart to make sure it wasnt stuck in the locked postition, and all my other windows work fine.

 

and im going now to spray some electrical cleaner inside the switchs, thanks for the great info.

 

I don't know if you fixed yet or not , just my 2 cents worth , some motors can be so badly worn at brushes/armature that they will work intermittently as well , they can also work for a very short time (window half up) and overheat and go out on thermal or lock up .
I hear all the switch cleaning reccomendations which is a common problem but another common problem with all electric doors and high mileage is broken wiring (broken inside insulation) where it passes from the door to the actual chasis , I have fixed many like this and it will create a intermittent problem that will drive you nuts or it could fail like this permanently but is uncommon because when you open and close door it is moving and will generally come and go .
If you cannot find the problem (motor,connections and switches are good) then look there .
It is a pain but if you uncover the wiring going from the inside of door to chasis then separate one by one and where the wire is bad will be much more flimsy/bends easier , if you go through each wire that applies to the window motor (color code check if you have a abundance of wires to narrow your search) then you may find that is the problem .
They generally tend to do this at the or very close to the pivot/bending point ot that harness when you close the door , if this is the problem then cut the wire in half , trim/strip back and install a long peice of shrink tubing and solder and then heat the shrink tube up a bit to seal , if you need wire to make up for stripping you can generally carefully pull what you need from either end (from door or from chasis) but generally much easier to get your slack from door

 

i did that, well i sprayed some electric parts cleaner and used compressed air for cleaning computers, and they work like new. thanks for the great info!

 

Coolness (and I am not in CA)