mickeydim468

With all of your help and diagrams I am finished with my repairs to my truck. (Almost) See below. I need more help.

I figured out my timing problem on my own and did the solder job with the No 1 water pipe still in the truck. Problem solved.

I removed the EGR and replaced the factory air box with a polished aluminum intake kit I found on E-bay. The rubber intake hose off the throttle body costs $56.00 + s&h and the whole kit cost me $52.00 with shipping incl.

Now to the trouble I am having with the PAIR removal. I have my truck all back together and am trying to get to the bottom bolt on the PAIR tube at the exhaust and can't seem to figure out the best angle to come at it. What did you all do to get to it? Did you remove the power steering pump and battery? or what?

Thanks again.

I'll post up pics when I am done. It looks really nice in there now, even with the disconnected PAIR system still on there. And yes, my truck is no longer a 3.Slow it is definitely a 3.GO.

Mike!

bone collector

I removed the battery when I took off the egr/pair system. The bottom bolt on the pair is a trick but very doable with a 3 inch extension. Good luck!!

Krazy Ken

What kind of performance gains are you guys seeing with this? Do you actually notice any more power or throttle response? If so I may be doing this sooner than I had expected.

mickeydim468

Originally posted by Krazy Ken:
Ken,

In my case I did a LOT more than this mod when I worked on my truck. I replaced 6 fuel injectors, removed the cat and installed a high flow muffler. I removed the PAIR and EGR. I also did a new cap, rotor and plugs and wires. I replaced the intake with a cold air intake kit with a "K&N like" filter. I also replaced the knock sensor and adjusted my timing by sound and not by light. I am about 20* advanced instead of 10*. But I kept my idle at 750 as recommended by Mud, somewhere on this forum. (I did a lot of reading)

The throttle response sounds like a formula one car now. The exhaust sounds like a Pro Street or mini tuner rod. I barely touch the throttle and I am in second gear and at 40MPH right away. Here in my town, that is speeding by 5 MPH. I have to go way out of town before I can even see 55MPH. When I do get there, I shift to 5th and before it used to seem to have trouble at 55 to speed up in 5th. Now it has no problems speeding up in 5th at 55. Same straight away, just a before and after. I drive that portion of road very frequently.

Where I noticed the largest change was coming up my street. I used to have to down shift to 1st at the bottom of the hill and lumber up at 10MPH. Now I can keep it in second and run all the way to my garage at the top of the hill. Doing this, I maintain or increase speed, rather than slowing down or bogging the motor.

Mike!

mickeydim468

Here are the pics I promised.

BEFORE




AFTER




What da ya think?

Mike!

Krazy Ken

That looks very nice, I want to do it so bad but two things are stopping me. One: I am pulling the toyota up to Durango, Co on sunday to be up there for the week of the 4th July. I am worried with my dumb luck I will mess something up and it won't run right and then I can't do any of the passes I want to go wheeling on. Two: I still have to pass emissions/ visual inspection and am worried if I take it off and they fail me that I won't be able to remember where everything (vacuum lines) goes.

mickeydim468

Thanks!

I know what you mean about adding things back in the way they are supposed to be. If you just disable them it will be much easier to remember how to put them back and there won't be any removing main parts etc... Just put 2 small bolts in the hoses that Mud describes up off the throttle body and put a marble or something similar in the hose that feeds back from the PAIR unit to the air box. I am pretty sure that is all that would be necessary to disable them. If I am wrong, maybe MudHippy will jump in and help out for you.

Good luck either way.

Mike!

Wrenchinjoe

Mickey,

Once you delete the EGR and PAIR systems, you no longer need the blue hoses that connect the intake tube to the steel lines above the timing cover. Go back and look at Mud's pictures in post #21, you will see what I mean.

mickeydim468

Hey Joe,

Yeah I know, I blocked them internally so they are not really functioning anyway. I thought they looked better than just having a couple pipes that look like they need something connected to them. Until I figure out how to remove that mess of vacuum lines and tubes as a unit, I will leave it there like this. Then, They'll be gone too!

Thanks for you observation though. You are correct.

Mike!

Toreador

Don't you have to block the two vacuum hoses that lead to the throttle body that are no longer in use?

bone collector

yes u do. that was the 1 part i forgot and it took awhile to figure it out

Toreador

What is the best method to removing the 4 lowest bolts-- the ones attached to the manifold?

Krazy Ken

Bump from the dead! I finished my second EGR and Pair removal on another new to me 1988 3vze. I did a full tune up at the same time while everything was off/apart. Runs much better. Another big thanks to MudHippy! I was also able to fix the cruise control while doing it. Apparently whichever vacuum line It was plugged into before was wrong.

ralatkins

okay, so this may be a bad question but I have ZERO mechanical skill. I have headers purchased to go on my 94 4runner 3.0, when I have them put on removing the pair valve and egr will be easier correct?

cipher

removed the egr and pair valve. replaced six injectors, pressure regulator, and pressure damper. truck runs much better, little tiny bit more knocking between 2400 an about 3000 rpm but my main issue is during deceleration i have a surging like it drops fuel for a split second. never during acceleration or when i lift my foot completely, like when im controlling my speed with my pedal down hill. any ideas?

1990 4runner 3vze.