PAIR Removal
01-26-2010, 06:36 PM
#1
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PAIR Removal
NE1 Done it?
I don't need it to pass inspection, & want to get rid of the thing. Don't bother with the pollution guilt trip, don't care.
Will it throw codes? Will it ren better or worse? Stay tuned & find out.
I don't need it to pass inspection, & want to get rid of the thing. Don't bother with the pollution guilt trip, don't care.
Will it throw codes? Will it ren better or worse? Stay tuned & find out.
01-26-2010, 07:31 PM
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If it's not throwing codes on yours, then I should be safe. I've had the vacuum off it for about a week, & no problems. U don't know how annoying that thing sounds untill you shut it up!
01-26-2010, 07:32 PM
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If it's not throwing codes on yours, then I should be safe. I've had the vacuum off it for about a week, & no problems. U don't know how annoying that thing sounds untill you shut it up!
01-27-2010, 01:58 PM
#7
I ditched mine awhile back, no troubles here. 3VZE btw.
I blocked-off the hole in the exhaust manifold with the same style home-made solid metal gasket I used to block-off the EGR holes(manifold & plenum). Threw the damn thing in the junk heap with the EGR and the rest of the crap I don't need!
I blocked-off the hole in the exhaust manifold with the same style home-made solid metal gasket I used to block-off the EGR holes(manifold & plenum). Threw the damn thing in the junk heap with the EGR and the rest of the crap I don't need!
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01-27-2010, 04:52 PM
#9
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PAIR stands for pulsed air injection, or something like that. It sends air into the exhaust to burn unburned fuel, provide oxygen to keep the cat happy, or thin out the exhaust enough to fool the sniffer machines. Which exactly depends on who you listen to.
If I lived where there wasn't any emissions BS mine would disappear. It's just useless clutter.
If I lived where there wasn't any emissions BS mine would disappear. It's just useless clutter.
01-28-2010, 03:26 PM
#10
It raises exhaust temps, and it robs all that air it's pulsing into your exhaust from your intake. Why would you not want to get rid of it? If you don't have to pass any emissions tests that is...
Last edited by MudHippy; 03-16-2012 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Removal of speculation
09-19-2010, 11:58 PM
#11
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so i'm rebuilding the 3vze, and I've put Downey headers on, found some brass - gas fittings and blocked the exhaust side of the EGR and the PAIR-Reed Valve assembly at the passenger side header. I have removed the EGR from the Intake and made a steel plate blockoff plate. My question is what to do with the vacuum hoses, etc. any pics of that aspect would be helpful. Thanks...and i'm nearly done rebuilding it...
09-20-2010, 08:32 AM
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The PAIR is almost silent, UNLESS one (or more) of the 5mm screws holding the metal cover over the valve get loose. Hard to reach, but tightening them will make the noise go away (of course, by the time you get annoyed by the noise the screws have probably fallen out. Just replace them; if you use socket head they are easier to install.)
09-20-2010, 11:35 AM
#13
I'll give you a few clues on what to do as far as removing them goes.
1. There's 3 brass vacuum tubes on top off the throttle body. Each one has a letter mark next to it. P is for the EVAP purge port, don't touch that one. You can plug up the ones marked E (for VSV for EGR Valve)and R (for EGR Vacuum Modulator).
2. Then disconnect all the hoses between those 2 tubes(E/R) and the EGR VSV and EGR Vacuum Modulator and all the hoses from the 2 VSVs to the EGR Valve and PAIR Reed Valve. The VSV colors are blue(PAIR) and green(EGR). The brownish one is for the fuel pressure regulator, don't touch that one. You can leave the blue and green VSV plugs connected or remove them. It makes no difference to the ECU. And the switch consumes minimal voltage, so unplugging them's not going to gain you anything really.
3. I plugged the vacuum tubes on the throttle body with a dab of RTV. Shoved maybe about a pea-size bit in their ends to seal them semi-permantly. You could probably use some sort of epoxy for a more permanent solution. Or jam like a BB size ball bearing in the ends of them. There's going to be some other holes on the plenum chamber where the VSV hoses were connected that need plugged too. I used RTV for those too.
I may have missed something but that's the gist of it anyway.
Good luck!
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-23-2010 at 11:53 AM.
09-20-2010, 12:19 PM
#14
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Hey Mudhippy
i would send you a PM....but for some reason i can't find the button to click to send a PM to you?
you seem to be very knowledgeable on the 3VZE vacuum lines and such...would you mind PM'ing me? i have a few questions to ask you!
i would send you a PM....but for some reason i can't find the button to click to send a PM to you?
you seem to be very knowledgeable on the 3VZE vacuum lines and such...would you mind PM'ing me? i have a few questions to ask you!
09-22-2010, 08:37 PM
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Thanks Mud hippy, you are a wealth of knowledge.... hijack i'm sure...ok so i've posted here b/c not only have i removed the EGR, i am also in full attack of removing the PAIR valve. My question is what do the Thermal Vacuum Switch control it is on the back of the motor, has 2 broken tips, i've attempted JB weld to reattach them, but not happy with the results. So i am considering ignoring it as i have been told it controls only the EGR/PAIR system.....is this correct? What about the Charcoal Canister that's in-tandem with the PAIR?
09-23-2010, 08:55 AM
#16
The TVV is for the EVAP/charcoal canister ONLY.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...76evaporat.pdf
The PAIR is a seperate system entirely.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...78pulsedse.pdf
Online 93 FSM
A new TVV/Bi-Metal Vacuum Switching Valve(BVSV) is $40-$50. Part # 90925-05047
I kept my EVAP. It's a good thing.
Sorry, no PMs, too busy....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...74layoutan.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...76evaporat.pdf
The PAIR is a seperate system entirely.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...78pulsedse.pdf
Online 93 FSM
A new TVV/Bi-Metal Vacuum Switching Valve(BVSV) is $40-$50. Part # 90925-05047
I kept my EVAP. It's a good thing.
Sorry, no PMs, too busy....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...74layoutan.pdf
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-27-2010 at 12:47 PM.
09-23-2010, 09:45 AM
#17
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One good reason is because it actually shortens the life of the catalytic convertor. In worse cases, as it was with mine, it can actually cause melting of the catalyst block(s), clogging the convertor and rendering it useless to perform it's intended function.
Aside from that, it raises exhaust temps(NOT GOOD FOR PERFORMANCE) and it robs all that air it's pulsing into your exhaust from your intake(also NOT GOOD FOR PERFORMANCE).
Aside from that, it raises exhaust temps(NOT GOOD FOR PERFORMANCE) and it robs all that air it's pulsing into your exhaust from your intake(also NOT GOOD FOR PERFORMANCE).
09-23-2010, 09:48 AM
#18
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bleeder......where'd you get all the fancy, blue vac line clips and throttle cable housing? That's still one of the cleanest painted motor's I've seen. I painted mine very similarly, but the paint's flaking off the valve cover. What paint did you use? Or, this all in your build thread?
09-23-2010, 10:47 AM
#19
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...78pulsedse.pdf
From Air Cleaner --> Resonator --> PAIR Reed Valve --> Exhaust manifold.
09-23-2010, 11:52 PM
#20
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Yes, that's what I'm saying. Follow the arrows designating the direction of air flow in the schematic in the FSM.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...78pulsedse.pdf
From Air Cleaner --> Resonator --> PAIR Reed Valve --> Exhaust manifold.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...78pulsedse.pdf
From Air Cleaner --> Resonator --> PAIR Reed Valve --> Exhaust manifold.
