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painting the interior

Old Dec 14, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC
painting the interior

I'm actually wondering what's the best way to remove the thick black crap on the interior floor. I want to paint the whole floor and about 6"-8" up the sides and want to get that stuff off before I paint. There a few medium size chunks missing so I'm gonna get rid of it all
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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From: cookeville tn
The sticky tar junk?
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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Yea, the 1/4" or 3/8" thick black crap that is on both side floor pans and the tranny tunnel. Heat gun? Torch? Hammer? Some type of stripper?
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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From: Natchitoches, La
this honda guy setting next to me here at work says get you some dry ice and set it on there for 20-30 minutes and then chip it out while its hard, after that scrape the rest out and use goo-gone to get it completely out. he said dont use the heat gun it makes it kinda melt and then just smear.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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From: Spring Valley, CA
why not grind it off? get an air grinder. thats what i did. ...before i flipped my truck lol
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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I think grinding it off would make a huge mess. And dry ice isn't a bad idea! How about a hammer and nail bar?
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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Maybe one of these (I haven't tried, just throwing out there what I would try)

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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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From: Lancaster, PA
+1 dry ice
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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From: Vian, OK
yep..dry ice or some liquid nitrogen will work wonders...hell i took a air horn (like the small hand held ones) and held it upside down to freeze a piece of steel to break it...just to be doing it LOL!!!

had the air horn just layin around..have had it for years LOL
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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From: Pflugerville, Texas
I used a scraper, and it worked really well for me. A little bit more elbow grease, but less expensive than dry ice.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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From: lompoc
i say instead of paint just go ahead and rhino line it
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 85yota4x4
i say instead of paint just go ahead and rhino line it
I say rhino line or rust bullet (depending on the shape of your floor at the moment).
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Yea, I'm definatly going to be using a DIY bedliner. I have the interior GUTTED. Dash completly out and everything. I'm swapping in a 7mge so the engine bay is stripped and have both fenders off too (replacing the fenders and getting ride of the 22re wires I don't need). I want to do the tire side of the wheel wells, the interior of the cab, and from the body lines down in the textured bedliner and paint the frame and motor side of the wheel wells POR 15 as well as the back half of the frame. The box is getting tossed and I have a flat deck going on! LOTS of work but its getting closer and closer
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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I can't say enough about rust bullet. I've used POR 15 as well, and I'll take rust bullet with the black enamel-ish overcoat over POR 15 any day of the week. My oldschool body shop teacher swears by POR 15. Hit the entire inside of your truck (and anywhere you can, really) with rust bullet first, even if you're putting bedliner over it. The bedliner doesnt stop rust dead like POR 15 or rust bullet does, in fact it can just make things worse over time if the metal doesnt get treated. If you've got the guts out, go for it. Order the rust bullet automotive set. 2 coats silver 1 coat black. that makes 6 quarts in a case. Don't get it on ya tho, the skin will come off before the paint does
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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i got rid of that crap. a lot of hammer hits breaks it, and sometimes big sections will come off. then i used a metal chisel. took a few hours. then i herculined it. a hammer chisel would be ideal. i get alot more vibrations now tho
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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So rust bullet then, hey? Where can I grab some of that stuff? I'm down to do what works....I'm this far in, right?!? As for vibrations, I'm 50/50 on caring on that one. When you have a built rig, there's always some trade-off. Plus, the old lady doesn't mind a rough ride! But seriously, I'm going from a semi-built rig to a flat decked, 7mge, rust-free, chromo'd front and rear, disc's front and rear, I sold my 33x12.5815 bfg m/t's and bought 36x14.5x15 tsl's. So all in all, ill take a little road noise. Ill post a shi t load of pics once I have her all put back together
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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I redid my interior looks sick.I used vinel spray paint for most of it.

Any ways,I wouldnt take that stuff of unless it really needs it,Its under the carpet so you could just mask it and but the liner around it,but ir you have to I would dynomatt it I did and it make a lot of diffrence. to heat/cold/nosie.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC
I did some reading up on rust bullet and people say it takes 2 coats to be as effective as POR 15. Also, I've called a few places here in vancouver and no one has the bullet, so POR it is. I was thinking about dynamat (I have a huge system...2 10's, 2 6 1/2's, 2 5 1/4's with a total of 1500 watts) that would help with the system and road noise, but I did away with my carpet a while ago. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement carpet?
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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I would definitely try dry ice blasting. According to this, it involves taking dry ice and shooting it at high speeds. It removes debris and has an easy cleanup... because all you would need to do is sweep up the "black crap" after it gets blasted off the surface.

Last edited by dropzone; Jul 18, 2010 at 07:35 PM. Reason: it also works on vaginal warts mr. spammer
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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From: Dixon, Ca
Pp ii cc ss ??
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