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Painting 1st gen 4Runner top

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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #61  
richf's Avatar
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From: Moyock,NC
any rubbing issues up front when you turn?
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #62  
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From: Gainesville,GA
Not at all but i do have a 8 as a spare and it rubs but 10 are perfect
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:47 AM
  #63  
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From: NJ - 5 miles from NYC
Rustoleum Satin Black

I just finished refurbing mine last wweek and got it on yesterday. I used Rustoleum satin black from Autozone. Three cans exactly painted the hardtop and the spoiler. I did a test first and it was an exact match for factory color and sheen. I did no sanding at all to leave the factory texture in place, but did ruff up the surface with a scotchbrite anfter cleaning it.

I think it cam out pretty well. You can see picts here in my photo album.


You can find picts here in my Misc Photo Album.
https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=2430
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Old Aug 28, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #64  
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From: Northern Virginia
this thread helped me plan out my hardtop project very well. also going with the satin finish
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 03:12 AM
  #65  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by Dr. Reddog
Rustoleum! Seriously. It's much cheaper than auto paint, and probably more durable. There's a few good tutorials on instructables.com

You can either roll on or use a spray gun. Either way you definitely want to thin the paint first. I did the roll on with rustoleum for my truck canopy, turned out fantastic! If I ever have time to paint the whole truck I will absolutely do it the same way.
I agree. So far I have done almost all of my trim and the roll bar with a quart of this in gloss black thinned with mineral spirits and shot with a $20 gun from Harbor Freight. I liked it so much that I bought a gallon of white and did my top. I plan on doing the rest of the truck as soon as I'm done with prep. Good shine if you layer several light coats and VERY durable. Also easy to touch up if you scratch it!
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 04:32 AM
  #66  
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From: Washington, NC
My 2 cents: I rolled Rustoleum Professional Satin Black about 4 years ago and it's still holding up nicely. A quart can was more than enough. I only washed and scuffed the original paint (no sanding, to maintain original texture), wiped with mineral spirits, then primed. I used a small foam roller, the ones that are about 1x6 in.. 2 coats of the satin black and you're good to go.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #67  
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From: Northern Virginia
@cramsey

about how long did it take you to paint your top? i have been doing my project in bits since dc gets rain on my off days, and i get home too late to work on it on workdays. I have pretty much done the same prep, wash and scuff, but im thinking i might sand it since theres spots where it has factory texture and some with smooth. I think the PO redid the top a long time ago and did a shoddy job of it
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #68  
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From: Washington, NC
I'm pretty sure it took me a full day, beginning to end. Careful taping took a good while, then the painting went pretty quick. I wanted to keep the original texture, so I didn't sand. The foam roller also helped by adding a little texture of it's own. I really don't like glossy/smooth tops on these 1st Gens.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 05:26 AM
  #69  
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Fiberglass is always a better option I prefer to get it.
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