Motor has about 4K on it, just about everything is new.

 

I've built quit a bit of these motors and the symptoms you fellas describe sound very familiar to what I've experienced with a few motors. A very common step that most mech. and machine shops don't do (especially when rebuilding) is ream the block after decking it. Believe me, it sounds like it won't hurt anything, but after running the motor for a few, these symptoms rear their ugly head. The problem is when carbon builds up on the hard (sharp) edge of the cylinder and then deposits itself on there and then heats up and creates detonation (where you get your "ping") which, eventually triggers your knock censer. Every time its happened, it was always on a rebuilt motor that has been machined. When mating an allum. head to a metal block, mechanics tend to overlook this step, thinking the gasket will take care of it. I don't know the history of your motors, but it sure sounds (by your descriptions) like that is what is happening. I'd hate for you guys to have to tear down your motors again, but if all else (that you've tried) fails, there's always this possibility..... Good luck in chasing down your gremlins, Toyotas, when built right, last forever......

 

4000k on motor, everything is basically new.

 

What fuel have you available to you? E-5, E-15, E-85? Don't use ethanol enriched fuel in your truck if possible. That will be lean as evidenced by your plug readings and tendency to run better with the KS disconnected.

Also, compression ratio could have something to do with it.

Another thing to check would be that the fuel pressure rises with the drop in manifold vacuum. It's a mechanism the ECU is programmed to account for but if the fuel pressure is stuck near the bottom (~38 PSI) and doesn't raise to the ~45psi or so it should have while driving, you will run lean.

 

Post a photo of how tight you installed the knock sensor. They can act funny when tightened down all the way. I don't think it's supposed to be. You may have to back it out a few turns.

 

I was chasing a misfire/no idle gremlin after my rebuild.
Like yourself lots of new parts and went over everything twice.
Hoses, EGR, wiring loom, I checked it all.

It wasn't until I took a propane bottle and started the motor up and with poking it around I discovered my "rebuild kit" had the wrong TB gasket in it. Was for the earlier turned down TB.

So spray your motor down with propane and see what you can find.

Careful with the eyebrows

 

Just checked my fuel pressure, it's all within FSM specifications. Now that leaves nothing else to check. Just going to have to live with it :/

 

Have you tried using higher octane gas. That should stop the ping.

My 22RE brand new pings for couple hundred miles. Believe the computer learns the calibration curve. Then all pings are gone. Does your ECU have power available to it after turning off the engine to make sure the memory is not erased each time car is turned off.

 

I've tried the highest octane I can get here in California which is 91 and on top of that a bottle of octane booster. It made a very negligible difference.

Good idea on the ECU voltage check. I'll give that a go even though I don't think that's my problem. The ECU stores codes after the ignition has been turned off.

 

The ecu store the engine info after ignition switch is off only when there is constant voltage to it. Remember there are two power wires. One is constant 12V, and the other is switched at ignition. The constant 12V helps the ecu remember the last setting.

 

Hey Guys, I'm back at it with some last ditch effort before I part this pile of ____ out. To give you guys an update I machined out a new cold start injector banjo bolt so I could add a pressure gauge and see what was going on. I was convinced that I had low fuel pressure, but sure enough 41psi under load. SO....yesterday I yanked the injectors and sent them off to Mr. Injector. As you guys know the motor is new and just about everything else is new on it, the injectors however have 196k on them. So wish me luck, If this don't work the 22RE will be dead to me. I'll let you guy's know as soon as I get back the injectors, with my wrecked spine I can still put these in in under 30 minutes


Thanks for the ear....

 

In this day and age It is all to easy to get the wrong parts in the correct boxes.

I am wondering because you seem to have checked just about every thing perhaps the wrong pistons were installed giving just to high of a compression ratio . i have heard of this happening as of late .

New cam machined off center slips past the inspectors no matter that the timing mark lines up the cam timing is always off.

Good luck I hope you get this figured out.

 

I must have missed your last thread.
Its such a simple engine, should not be hard to get a good clue.

Too bad you are on the opposite side of the country, I'd give you a hand.

 

I would take you up on the hand offer, thanks!

On another note I got the injectors back this afternoon and installed them. Have not test drove it yet, it did however fire right up like it always does. I talked to Bill a couple times on the phone and explain the issue I was having and after testing/cleaning/ then testing again he didn't think my injectors were the issue. It's about 1 a.m. and I will test drive later today and report back then. My hopes are not high at this time.

Thanks Guys

 

Zero change, same issue, done with this.....

 

Check the vacuum diaphrams on the distributor. If the timing won't advance or over advances because one or the other diaphram isn't working, it will ping. Doerman rebuilt diaphrams are about $100 at Autozone.

 

Vacuum-less distributor, thanks though.

 

jeeez. i had the same problem with my 22re, no majot rebuild. 200000mi when i noticed it. i ran 2-3 btdc and still had the issue. i had the head off with no major carbon build up. rebuilt injectors as my seals were glass upon removal. with 20 year old pistons and rings i doubt compression was high, though i never tested it.

even though i no longer own the truck, this still haunts me. the only thing i've thought of since i got rid of it, is that i was always running a cheap cap and rotor. maybe the contact points were too far advanced for a given cylinder(s).

i know im not helping much but best of luck to you, and dont give up yet. hey, as it turns out, my 1gr-fe pings a bit too on 87 with ample throttle in a given gear. if the lower end will take it, run 'er till she dont

 

I am still in the same boat as you, everything is brand new and checked per the FSM. I have 15K miles now on the new long block and its been pingin' the whole time.

 

Have you tried using a lower temperature thermostat? The ideal temp thermostat is 180 degree.