Fallingup

I've had this happen to me twice. First time it was a bad injector. Second time, clogged fuel line. Both you've obviously checked already. If timing is all set, have you done a compression test in the cylinders? Kinda sounds like too much compression. Low pro head gasket on rebuild?

bobbybouche

Have you unplugged the knock sensor to see if the pinging stops?

bobbybouche

Yes, I put the factory 190° when rebuilt, then switched to a 180° thinking that might help, and it did not.

bobbybouche

The compression was 174 across the board if I remember right, I know it was super close to spec.

xylicon

I actually did do that and it retarded the timing and ran really sluggish as it should, but it didn't have any affect on the pinging. I am also running the stock OEM thermostat which is 190F. My temperature gauge rarely gets above half way.

I have 180 PSI on all cylinders.

bobbybouche

Then might be a bit different as my outcome fixes the ping but not the problem.

bobbybouche

Okay since I only talk about parting this pile out and never really get to it, I started messing with ˟˟˟˟ again tonight. I was reading this and that and came across a sweep test (new info for me) for the AFM. I have tested the AFM a dozen times along with every other component on this motor which lead me to name my 4Runner "Second Guess". Anyways, "IT FAILED THE SWEEP TEST" has 1 dead spot for sure, there really hard to find with a digital micrometer, my analog meter has a damaged leads and the digital ones wont fit it. So that being said is it at all possible that the AFM would cause the lean condition in turn making it ping? (remember white plugs = lean) PLEASE CHIME IN

bobbybouche

Nothing but crickets???..........lol

InternetRoadkill

Yes, it could be the AFM is lying to the ECU and causing your ping. AFM's are tricky to test with ohmmeters though. The best way to check them is with power applied and to measure the output voltage as the vane is moved. It should be smooth with no jumps. You may also want to check that the vane is moving freely and that it's not sticking. AFMs tend to pick up corrosion over time which can interfere with free movement.

bobbybouche

Thanks for the reply InternetRoadkill, as for corrosion we only hear of such things out here in the west I did the sweep test powered up like you stated and it does have a slight drop in voltage (or jump?) at the same spot were I did the ohms test (about 1/5 open). So is it safe to say that itty bitty hiccup is the root of all my issues?

Thanks again Roadkill

InternetRoadkill

I can't say for sure. But it does sound suspicious. There should not be any jumps in the sweep. You might try to find a decent used unit to test with to see if the problem goes away. You may also want to do a quick check of the TPS.

bobbybouche

Ya I'll see if I can find one, just checked the TPS....again...still good

Thanks for the input Roadkill

my 75 toyota

So ok did you check to see if your injector resistor soleniod that controls how much positive voltage you get, what ever its called has the proper ohms mine was good but one wire one the green barrel conecter was corroded cut out and replaced al is well now.

Kiroshu

I was planning to Chime in and Recommend a Test on the AFM(Air Flow Meter) when i noticed the last few posts were finially getting to that ^_^.

On the 22re the AFM dictates about 80% of the engines air fuel ratio believe it or not. And they wear along with internals of the engine at about the same rate.... Meaning they last a very looooong time.

There is am Ohm Test or a "Resistance" test in the FSM for the Air flow meter and if it fails any of those tests the AFM is considered defective and requires replacing or rebuilding.

The old Air-Flow-Meter in your truck is prob highly worn and more than likely showed much to no problem on the Factory engine that had not been rebuilt because it had the general age and mileage(Wear and tear) that the engine block itself did.

However when the new motor came into play the AFM was still old and worn out and sending "old and worn out" data to the computer on a new engine... which is incorrect.

I suggest a NEW AFM it will increase your performance heavily.

I had the same issue with my 22re only mine has not ever been rebuilt its a factory toyota engine block with 265k miles however the AFM(Still working was heavily worn out) and there was alot of lost power and pinging under load...(Like hills and hard take off). I did the Resistance test in the FSM Found my Air flow meter Waaaaaaaaay out of specs.

Replaced it and i was almost confused as to how much better the engine ran i had to acctually get used to this new lost power i never had ^_^.

If AFM ends up not being the culprit i would re-check Valve clearance(s).

bobbybouche

Care to explain where this resister is and/or the process to test it? I can not find it in the FSM.

bobbybouche

Your post is where I'm at now, believe me the valves are dead on, like a half dozen times dead on As for the blasted AFM it has been tested with every other component on this $runner. The AFM tested perfect on all the FSM tests a dozen times (the reason I named the $runner Second Guess). Then Just the other night I came across the sweep test that is not in the FSM. I first tested it with just an ohms sweep and there was a dead spot, InternetRoadkill then told me the best test was the sweep with applied power to the AFM. At the dead spot there was a voltage drop which it is not supposed to do as Roadkill stated. So I am in the process of hoping a local wheeler will let me plug there afm in my $runner to be sure. But thank you for your input.

bobbybouche

Okay, after some searching it seems 1988 and earlier 2.4's were using low independent injectors which needed a resistor solenoid. 1989 and later were using high independent injectors which do not need the resistor.

Kiroshu

Yes late model 22re's donot have a seperate fuel injector resistor.

Kiroshu

Curious to see if another AFM will help the issue ^_^

bobbybouche

Me too